Is this good enough for my Imagines???

[RoYALbLUE08 10+ year member]

So i just recieved my HAT imagine i61-2 speakers.

I have a Kenwood KAC 8405 Amp that i bought before

these are the specs

•4-channel car amplifier

•60 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (90 watts x 4 at 2 ohms)

•180 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4 ohm stable in bridged mode)

•2-, 3-, and 4-channel operation

•CEA-2006 compliant

•variable high- and low-pass filters (50-200 Hz, 12 dB per octave)

•variable bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz)

•dual cooling fans

•MOSFET power supply

•speaker-level inputs with signal sensing turn-on

•preamp inputs

•fuse rating: 30A x 2

•8-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier

•11"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-1/2"D

•warranty: 1 year

So if i bridge my amp and run it at 180 watts RMS is that okay for my HAT speakers??

should i be running less? or shoud i unbridge it?

also i thought these speakers came with a crossover.... i had no idea they didnt have a crossover now i have to spend MORE money to buy a **** crossover

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[nateberrier 10+ year member]

First: Why buy nice speakers and then power them with a shit amp?

Second: That power will be fine on them if you dont clip. If you clip at all you probably are gonna smell them and or blow them. So keep the gains down.

Third: You should look at running "Active"; that is each tweeter and mid has its own channel on the amp and you run a powered crossover or even better an active deck. I have been seeing a lot of 9887 decks for sale lately. It will sound better, with high end audio, passives typically arent used anymore.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

I'm pretty sure the Imagines come with a cap on the tweeter, but the mid has no lowpass. So you dont NEED to buy a passive crossover. But, like Nate said, look into going active.

And I'd def bridge that amp to em.

 

[RoYALbLUE08 10+ year member]

well i bought the amp a few months ago when i had different speakers and i read great reviews on it so i just bought it. this was before i joined this forum and i had really no idea on the a whole different world of car audio lol. now i know alot more than before which is why i researched and bought the HAT's.

the only thing i still dont really udnerstand is the active/passive. so to my understanding active means just running each speaker/tweeter to its own channel?

and i will be buying a pioneer AVH-p8400 in the summer if thats any help to you guys

 

[maylar 10+ year member]

I run my 5.25" Imagines off 70 W and they're plenty loud. There are no fancy crossovers, just a capacitor for the tweeter (6dB/octave) that's mounted to the woofer. The tweets mount to the mids coaxially by default, if you want to separate them you need to either run a wire between them or use an external cap (they're cheap).

Running active means a separate amp for mids and tweets. I don't think that p8400 will support that directly.

 

[VisceralSound 10+ year member]

I run my 5.25" Imagines off 70 W and they're plenty loud. There are no fancy crossovers, just a capacitor for the tweeter (6dB/octave) that's mounted to the woofer. The tweets mount to the mids coaxially by default, if you want to separate them you need to either run a wire between them or use an external cap (they're cheap).
Running active means a separate amp for mids and tweets. I don't think that p8400 will support that directly.

So say I have the SK80.4 from SKAR and I have the tweets on the first 2 channels, and the mids on the last 2 is that active? (or related)

 

[RoYALbLUE08 10+ year member]

I run my 5.25" Imagines off 70 W and they're plenty loud. There are no fancy crossovers, just a capacitor for the tweeter (6dB/octave) that's mounted to the woofer. The tweets mount to the mids coaxially by default, if you want to separate them you need to either run a wire between them or use an external cap (they're cheap).
Running active means a separate amp for mids and tweets. I don't think that p8400 will support that directly.

yeah im planning on taking the tweeter out of the mids and put them in my stock tweeter location. if i amp them that wouldnt be considered active? this whole active thing is confusing

 

[chillin 10+ year member]

Basically you need a deck that is capable of running active or a external active crossover to plug into. So on the deck, the sub out would go where it always does and you would cut out frequencies above 80hz. The front speaker output would go to channel 1&2 and you would have the frequency set from 80hz to 5000 and run these to the mids. Then the rear speaker output would go to ch3&4 and all freq below 5000 would be cut and the speaker wires would run to the tweeters. The key is having a deck that has a bandpass (not just high pass or low pass)for the mids.

BTW all crossover points where pulled out of my a$$, nice thing about active is you can pick exactly where you want them to be and how much slope.

 

[VisceralSound 10+ year member]

Basically you need a deck that is capable of running active or a external active crossover to plug into. So on the deck, the sub out would go where it always does and you would cut out frequencies above 80hz. The front speaker output would go to channel 1&2 and you would have the frequency set from 80hz to 5000 and run these to the mids. Then the rear speaker output would go to ch3&4 and all freq below 5000 would be cut and the speaker wires would run to the tweeters. The key is having a deck that has a bandpass (not just high pass or low pass)for the mids.
BTW all crossover points where pulled out of my a$$, nice thing about active is you can pick exactly where you want them to be and how much slope.

Could some amps have an Active crossover?

 

[chillin 10+ year member]

Im sure i have seen some with the bandpass mode, but cant think of which ones off hand. Most likely something of higher quality like zapco or audison, but i could be wrong on that

 

[VisceralSound 10+ year member]

Do you then buy a "cross over" or something that plugs from the rcs of the HU to the "crossover" then from there another set of rcas to the amp input?

 

[RoYALbLUE08 10+ year member]

is there an electronic crossover i can buy besides buying a deck? because i have my factory system in my car and i have an audiocontrol LC2i loc

 

[chillin 10+ year member]

Yes you could do that or buy a deck that is active capable such as the alpine 9887, pioneer 880prs...

 

[RoYALbLUE08 10+ year member]

no besides buying a deck. im keeping my factory system now. there isnt any external active crossovers?

 

[VisceralSound 10+ year member]

no besides buying a deck. im keeping my factory system now. there isnt any external active crossovers?

I think hes talking about this, which is what I was wondering.

Clarion MCD360 3-way Electronic Crossover - Sonic Electronix