Umbra
Hobbyist & CA Tenderfoot
- Thread Starter
- #16
The manual had a design that utilized a 3" aero. I plugged the x-max, cone area, and desired frequency into an equation and it recommended using at least 3.6" ports to prevent port noise. That's 10 sq. inches of area in aeros, but I don't know what that converts to slot port wise. I know people tend to use like 50-100% less area with aeros.I would go with a wood port....utilizing the front baffle as part of the port area. Tricky part is figuring out how much port area those need and then a design from there. Rectangle skinny port might work....then the bends with the wood.
That's what I thought, but from what I've read about people doing it it seems like so long as the bend isn't too sharp and there's enough straight port before the outside it's okay. Not better than straight, but not problematic at lower velocities. Port Flares talks about it, but I can't begin to pretend to understand velocities at this point in the night, so I'll try tomorrow.having elbows on the port kinda defeats the purpose of having aeroports. Either go side ported or go slot ported.
The box is going behind the third row in a minivan. If I do a side port it has to fire into the side of the vehicle. I tried facing a sealed sub to the side, but it didn't sound nearly as good as against the trunk lid. I do like the idea, though.
I like the idea of the aeros, especially since I had most of the hardware on hand (I bought the rest today), but if it's not a good idea in this situation (I can handle not ideal, but acceptable) I can go back to the drawing board and try slotted.