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Is this a functional ported box?
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<blockquote data-quote="T3mpest" data-source="post: 8423376" data-attributes="member: 560148"><p>Port orientation wont' matter too much. Closer to the walls might lower tuning a bit and isn't likely to choke the port. Do the subwoofer baskets clear the port like that? Seems like subs with larger mounting depth wouldnt' fit in that. Also you don't want the subs firing directly into the port. You want the subs to pressurize the box and the airmass of the box to pressurize the port. Having the subs inside the port can lead to them unloading and weird pressure issues, sometimes resulting in ripped cones, torn surrounds, or at least greatly reduced mechanical powerhandling.</p><p></p><p>I prefer subs back in most vehicles to port up. Only time I go sub up is when I'm trying to maximize cone area for a daily beater spl/demo style car. I find it often doesn't sound as musical as sub back as response usually gets pretty bad on higher bass notes. In loud 150+ cars it's easier to make a roof support that kind of pressure as opposed to a hatch though. Basically under 150db and if SQ is of any priority, I usually go rear firing. If maximizing cone area is the goal, SPL is primary concern, then I go sub up.</p><p></p><p>edit: Sub up works great in hatches and pretty well in most extended cabs trucks too. SUV'sis where I follow the guideline above.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="T3mpest, post: 8423376, member: 560148"] Port orientation wont' matter too much. Closer to the walls might lower tuning a bit and isn't likely to choke the port. Do the subwoofer baskets clear the port like that? Seems like subs with larger mounting depth wouldnt' fit in that. Also you don't want the subs firing directly into the port. You want the subs to pressurize the box and the airmass of the box to pressurize the port. Having the subs inside the port can lead to them unloading and weird pressure issues, sometimes resulting in ripped cones, torn surrounds, or at least greatly reduced mechanical powerhandling. I prefer subs back in most vehicles to port up. Only time I go sub up is when I'm trying to maximize cone area for a daily beater spl/demo style car. I find it often doesn't sound as musical as sub back as response usually gets pretty bad on higher bass notes. In loud 150+ cars it's easier to make a roof support that kind of pressure as opposed to a hatch though. Basically under 150db and if SQ is of any priority, I usually go rear firing. If maximizing cone area is the goal, SPL is primary concern, then I go sub up. edit: Sub up works great in hatches and pretty well in most extended cabs trucks too. SUV'sis where I follow the guideline above. [/QUOTE]
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Is this a functional ported box?
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