Trepkos
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
Amp Settings:
Level - Highest(0.2v)
Bass EQ - 0
Phase - 0%
Subsonic - 15hz
LPF - 50-59hz area.
Remote Bass Boost - "Minimum"
HU EQ Settings:
Sub-w - 0 db
Bass - 0 db
Treble - 0 db
Mid - 0 db
Ipod EQ:
Off
DMM probing the speaker outputs and playing a test tone which covers the 50-59hz range. DMM is showing '0.3" voltage, on a Hifonics Txi1008d Class D amplifier with 1000.1@1-ohms, the voltage rating should be around the 31-32.0 area. But the only way to get near that level is turn the Bass boost to maximum which brings the voltage to 35, but to make sure I haven't set the LPF to a higher or lower frequency I also tried 30-49hz and 60-89hz and the output was highest on the 50-59hz.
Is my amplifier busted because setting the bass boost and gain all the way up should not be required to get the default wattage advertised and it seems that this isn't just a miscalculation on which the amplifier doesn't put out the right amount but an actual mechanical flaw in the amplifier.
Level - Highest(0.2v)
Bass EQ - 0
Phase - 0%
Subsonic - 15hz
LPF - 50-59hz area.
Remote Bass Boost - "Minimum"
HU EQ Settings:
Sub-w - 0 db
Bass - 0 db
Treble - 0 db
Mid - 0 db
Ipod EQ:
Off
DMM probing the speaker outputs and playing a test tone which covers the 50-59hz range. DMM is showing '0.3" voltage, on a Hifonics Txi1008d Class D amplifier with 1000.1@1-ohms, the voltage rating should be around the 31-32.0 area. But the only way to get near that level is turn the Bass boost to maximum which brings the voltage to 35, but to make sure I haven't set the LPF to a higher or lower frequency I also tried 30-49hz and 60-89hz and the output was highest on the 50-59hz.
Is my amplifier busted because setting the bass boost and gain all the way up should not be required to get the default wattage advertised and it seems that this isn't just a miscalculation on which the amplifier doesn't put out the right amount but an actual mechanical flaw in the amplifier.
