Is it just me or do Type R components ****?!?!!?

Type r's have really good midbass. I have had boston pros, cdt, and aura mobile reference comps (same car same install locations) and the bostons were the only ones close to the r's in midbass. From what you are saying I would be looking at the install before buying new speakers.
I agree that some of it has to do with the install. I don't have any sound deadening at all. But I can still tell that no matter how perfect the install might be with my Type R's, they will never be able to overcome the loudness of my sub. There's just absolutly no way at all. I will definitly be putting a lot more time into the install of whatever Rainbows I decide to go with. I'm still waiting on a reply from 6spdcoupe on all the prices and everything. I really don't have any idea on if I should go with a 3 way set up or a 2 way set up. The double mids of the Germanium 465 sounds like it would be amazing and definitly a fun build with a beautiful outcome, but I doubt I have enough money for that, I'm sure it will be bank.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif

 
see, the only reason I got them is because the best sounding car ive heard...was with type R comps...they sounded great. This kid had an RSX with 2* 6.5" components, and id say a 145db daily system...listened to mostly Metal, and these speakers just shined. you could hear every word, no distortion, and decent midbass. This is why I bought them, but i cant get mine to sound even close to as nice....???
one of the most honest replys I've read in this thread. it just not as easy as buying some component and droping them in and expecting great sound. it takes planning, location, power, and tuning. I know people that have bought $1000 mb quart components and have it sound like shit does it poor singal processing, wrong x cover points, etc. I've heard the so praised rainbow componets that sounded like shit but it was probably user error as in 99% of customer complaints with most componets. I only have 40 watts going to my woofers and 40 watts going to my tweeter in active and in their door molded sealed enclosure and gains set right have no problem blending with my w6v2's, though their not type rs I've installed about 8 sets and only around 2 or 3 sounded like shit that was because either the owner had 2 much bass and drowned them out or had a shitting signal source so no matter the speakers it would sound like crap

 
I see what you're saying about the install making them sound good, and I agree. But don't you think that no matter how great the install is that a set of type R's just won't be able to keep up with a sub pounding off of 2500 watts?

 
Wonderful, I just bid on a set of 6.5" Type R Comps and a set of 6.5" Type R Coax. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif Oh well, they gotta sound better than my stock Bose speakers right? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/hilarious.gif.02a037aad04aa96f19982b298a3d70a8.gif

 
Oh man, that sucks I'm sorry. If I woulda known you were gonna be bidding on those, I woulda posted this a couple days earlier:p: it's all good though, they're not bad sounding IMO. They're just not loud enough to play over my sub.

 
SkwurlyFab Have you found the ideal components since I have the same problemos!! and worst of all in Malta you have to buy that which you cannot listen to!!

 
Just a thought regarding the type r and s, maybe your all not giving the R's enough power?? Any speaker thats well powered will sound better than one thats not regardless of speaker quality.

Another thought, maybe you need to tweak the EQ a bit, usually if its not cutting through its due to lack of mids.

That said, I bought some type r coaxials (last years model) and they sound fine, and thats off HU power.

 
They're rated at 70 watts RMS, 350 peak. I'm powering 4 Type R 6.5's off of a JL 300/4, and wired em like usual, positive to positive, negative to negative so they're getting as much power as possible. The amps rated at 75x4, I guess they could take more but I don't wanna risk it. That's why I'm thinking I need some speakers than can take a lot more power. It sure would be nice if I could make these work though. I'm not too profesional with all the settings on my HU, but I have it high passed at 150, otherwise they'll distort at full volume REALLY bad. I should just start ****ing around with em before I decide to buy new speakers probably.

 
yes, I have alpine 6.5 type R components and it sounds okay but nowhere near good quality as my boston pro 5.2 that I had from 1990(one tweeter is blown).

But the type R cost is almost half price as boston pro, focal, rainbow, infinity kappa. When I first got my type R and powered up with my infinity 740 amp feeding only front channels at 112x2, no rearfills. I was disappointed at the low volume levels, so I bridged the amp into 2 channel feeding 278x2 into my typr R and it was loud and clear. Sat there and rang bunch of music, highs sounded good but not like boston quality, midbass was good but nowhere near tight as bostons, but then again bostons were 5.25 and type R is 6.5. Type R bass sounded more boomy and door panels rattle little bit, no deadner yet.

I have the type tweeter setting at +3db and it nowhere sounded loud or clear as my bostons. But for the cheap price, I don't think you could do better than the type R for right now.

If I were you, suggest first to just power up the front type R and disconnet the rear speakers and feed the type R with that jl amp more power, just bridge it 2 channel mode and see what you get. Yes, the woofer does distort at high volumes on some low bass notes. ALso the efficiency rating is kind of low on this type R compared to other components. ALso remember that bostons are 3 ohm so probably getting more power. I had my bostons running with ads pq10 at 80x2 and it sounded better than my 278x2 alpine type R, somehow sounded more clear and louder. But I didn't really do very ideal same condition test, just recalling from prior listening test.

ALso loudness is very much effected by the tweeter location to my ears so try different mounting location for the tweeter.

final conclusion, I would say type Bass woofer is good as other and can get very low notes but distorts at some really low bass,,, so cutoff frequency is needed.

the tweeter is just not cutting it at all compared to the higher models of different brands but is heads above shoulder when compared to other brands within the same price range.

I like to get some bostons, focals, rainbow but there all $$$.

 
To the thread starter:

So let me get this straight, you want to run a sub with 1kw and soon to be running 2.5kw to it and you want components that will keep up with it?? Not to mention you want it to sound "good". I hate to break it to you but there aren't many speakers in the world that can get that loud and sound good doing it. Also, once you get that sub moving a bunch of bass around your vehicle your ears will no longer be able to discern quality sound from distorted garbage. So basically if you're running that sub and amp setup then it won't really matter what components you get because you won't be able to tell the difference from Rainbow Reference comps and Pyramid coaxials. The whole point of being an SQ system is to have bass that is proportionate with the rest of the drivers in your system and be able to hear all the details of the music. If you're on the other side of the spectrum and just like to get loud then why worry about the sound.? Its hard to accept but you will not be easily pleased trying to have the best of both worlds.

 
I fully see what you're saying Adam71, it makes sense. I guess in this hobby, industry, life of car audio, whatever you wanna call it you can either go for SQ or SPL. And you can't really find a perfect medium. I sort of find that hard to believe, but like you said, with a sub that powerful, it's gonna be hard to find anything to play over it. I appreciate your input, maybe my expectations were just a little too high. This is my first large build. I've had plenty of little 10's and 12's and speakers running off shitty amps in my day, but never have I put so much time and money into a full complete build like this. And it's funny cuz as hard as I've wored at it so far, it's still no where near the scale of some other peoples systems on here lol.

I am gonna go out and bridge the front 2 speakers right now and see how that does. I'll post up in a little bit on how it goes.

 
i just sold my 6.5 comps r's....imo, the midbass was a tad muddy but was all dependent on what type of music i was listning to..the tweeter was good and kept up with 3 12" mtx 8000 and 2 12" type r's just fine running off a 1500 rms mtx 1501d..

i will go ahead and say its the install....you really have to fine tune a system before you can just blame it on a crappy speaker..i've done that before and kicked my a$$ several times...though somtimes if i just drop em in with a previous speakers settings they will still sound great...

check the x-over on all the components in the system and set all the gains ect from the tutorial...

 
OK they're defnitly louder. I dunno If i'd say louder or just more piercing, I mean my ****ing ears are ringing right now, and the tweeters are set at 0db not +3db on the crossovers. But the speakers pop a little at high volume and don't sound clear in the vocals so I gotta reset the gains and I'm not sure if I have the formula right.

Before they were set to 17.3 volts because it was a 4 ohm load getting 75 watts. voltage= square root (4x75). But now that they're bridged to 150watts a piece, I'm kinda confused on how to get the voltage rating.

The speakers are wired in parallel (+ to + and - to - right?). So because they're bridged is the amp still seeing a 4 ohm load? Or an 8 ohm load?

With the 4 ohm load I get V=24.5. With an 8 ohm load I get V= 34.6.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks:)

 
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