Is car toys right? Or just trying to sell me stuff???

[95lincdog]

Yes two capacitors

 

[yogegoy]

Here check this out Cable, this will help you out.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I don't know much about amps but I was thinking Maybe it is the alternator, because if it takes 20 minutes to lower the bass, the alternator tries to keep refill the battery and can for a little while, but can't keep up with the amp pull of power after time. My friends car it worked fine in has a stock 130a alt, where mine is only 95a. He didn't do the big 3 or have upgraded batt/alt. could that be possible?

with a high current draw from the amps, the wires might be heating up too. Heated up wires will reduce output to near zero. Get your battery tested too. How strong is the battery anyways? Toss an AGM battery in there and perform the big 3. I had 2000 rms on my 80 amp corolla with batteries and big 3, didn't have any dimming issues after doing the big 3 and having the 2nd battery installed.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Unless you've got junk ebay wires in there I see no possibility your wiring is the cause of your problems.

The forum seems to have developed a tendency to go all out on wiring requirements w/o even getting accurate info on the equipment being wired.

The xz1852 is rated for 400w rms bridged at 4 ohms. 4/8 would be the specified wire size for what you're running.

We often use power as a wire spec, but it actually IS about the current. It's just that in a car, knowing power tells us current since the voltage is always 13-14.

Would 2 awg/4 awg be better? Sure, on a calculator, but nowhere else.

1/0 to 4 would be even better. Why not set it up with 4/0 to 1/0 that would be even better!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

What voltage drop you're getting is well within acceptable limits for an amp. According to bcae1's voltage loss calculator you have right around 1/2v at full power which amounts to about 30w lost at the amp's outputs - this is not an audible amt of power -- not even close to audible.

People constantly fail to recognize we listen to MUSIC, not full volume sine waves.

It could definitely be that your alt is fading. 95's not big by any means, and that car probably has quite a bit of electrical draw in its stock form.

FWIW - I have a 1000w rms sub amp and a component amp rated for 360x2 (gain limited to 250x2).

I have 4 split to 8 and a 100A fuse at the battery. Everything runs fine and has been for 5 yrs or so in 3 different cars -- again, music, not sine waves.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Not trying to cheap out. I stated in a previous thread that's what I was going to have and ppl said it was fine. I'm a noob and only heard of watts determining power wire size, not the fuse amperage numbers. Really I'm just trying to track down why my bass is lowering itself. Like if it's a voltage drop or if my amps are going out. Is there a way to test an amp with a simple volt meter? A couple days ago I didn't know my positive battery cable was loose and I had my music loud. Some weird things happened withe the speaker sounds. Do u think that might have burnt my amps?

Those amps are junk, and yes, you do select wire gauge based on how much current you need to pass through the wire. I'd wager you'd be fine with #8 wire, but most of the money there is likely labor anyway, so it's highly advisable to go with the #2 and #4 as they suggest. The wire itself won't go bad and you can always pull it when you sell the vehicle and use it in your next one.

As to whether or not you hurt you amp, who can say? If they're not working properly anymore you probably broke something.

 

[95lincdog]

Unless you've got junk ebay wires in there I see no possibility your wiring is the cause of your problems.
The forum seems to have developed a tendency to go all out on wiring requirements w/o even getting accurate info on the equipment being wired.

The xz1852 is rated for 400w rms bridged at 4 ohms. 4/8 would be the specified wire size for what you're running.

We often use power as a wire spec, but it actually IS about the current. It's just that in a car, knowing power tells us current since the voltage is always 13-14.

Would 2 awg/4 awg be better? Sure, on a calculator, but nowhere else.

1/0 to 4 would be even better. Why not set it up with 4/0 to 1/0 that would be even better!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

What voltage drop you're getting is well within acceptable limits for an amp. According to bcae1's voltage loss calculator you have right around 1/2v at full power which amounts to about 30w lost at the amp's outputs - this is not an audible amt of power -- not even close to audible.

People constantly fail to recognize we listen to MUSIC, not full volume sine waves.

It could definitely be that your alt is fading. 95's not big by any means, and that car probably has quite a bit of electrical draw in its stock form.

FWIW - I have a 1000w rms sub amp and a component amp rated for 360x2 (gain limited to 250x2).

I have 4 split to 8 and a 100A fuse at the battery. Everything runs fine and has been for 5 yrs or so in 3 different cars.

I have each amp 1 channeled to each sub wired at 2 ohms. Would that change the rms significantly enough to need bigger than 4 gauge split to 8? They r the xm-zr1850

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Subs are wired for 2 ohms? Amps bridged?

That is definitely a problem. It is not supposed to be capable of running below 4 ohms when bridged.

There is almost nothing to gain by running it like that. At that elevated level of stress you're probably getting significantly less power than it would produce at 4 ohms.

Besides, that amp doesn't increase much in power output at 4 ohms bridged vs 8. It's 370 vs 400w rms.

Rewire the subs for 8.

See if it helps the problem.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/product/img/subwoofer_wiring/1_sub_DVC_4_ohm_2ch_bridged.jpg

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Do the big 3 and get rid of those capacitors.

 

[95lincdog]

Subs are wired for 2 ohms? Amps bridged?That is definitely a problem. It is not supposed to be capable of running below 4 ohms when bridged.

There is almost nothing to gain by running it like that. At that elevated level of stress you're probably getting significantly less power than it would produce at 4 ohms.

Besides, that amp doesn't increase much in power output at 4 ohms bridged vs 8. It's 370 vs 400w rms.

Rewire the subs for 8.

See if it helps the problem.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/product/img/subwoofer_wiring/1_sub_DVC_4_ohm_2ch_bridged.jpg

No. The amps are 1 or 2 channel. I'm using them as 1 channel each to each sub. The subs are dual 4 ohms. I have the wired in parallel (wired to itself) which drops them to 2ohms

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

So you're running at 2 ohms bridged, or only USING one of the two channels on each amp.

Either way it's not good. Bridging at 2 ohms SHOULD be putting the amps into protection.

The other option is only getting you 200w per sub.

Regardless - you should be wiring your subs like the link above -- 8 ohms mono/bridged -- giving you 370w per sub and both amps running comfortably.

 

[95lincdog]

I'll try it like the chart. And let u know. Thanks.

 

[95lincdog]

So you're running at 2 ohms bridged, or only USING one of the two channels on each amp.
Either way it's not good. Bridging at 2 ohms SHOULD be putting the amps into protection.

The other option is only getting you 200w per sub.

Regardless - you should be wiring your subs like the link above -- 8 ohms mono/bridged -- giving you 370w per sub and both amps running comfortably.

The problem is fixed. I wired both subs to one amp on two channels. Kept them wired at two ohms and it worked fine. Almost just as loud as having both amps. Thanks everyone

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

The problem is fixed. I wired both subs to one amp on two channels. Kept them wired at two ohms and it worked fine. Almost just as loud as having both amps. Thanks everyone

The amps were crumbling at 2 ohms mono. Now you're back to 200w rms per sub, which probably sounds fine. 370 would be better.

Not sure why you're resisting good advice.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

The amps were crumbling at 2 ohms mono. Now you're back to 200w rms per sub, which probably sounds fine. 370 would be better.Not sure why you're resisting good advice.

I swear they all do this. Come onto a forum, explain a problem, we as experts give them advice, they do exact opposite then finally they do what we tell them (The fix) then come on here again and say everything is fine. It's like they don't believe us to begin with.

 

[95lincdog]

The amps were crumbling at 2 ohms mono. Now you're back to 200w rms per sub, which probably sounds fine. 370 would be better.Not sure why you're resisting good advice.

Chill guys, I'm not resisting. I just didn't have enough time before work lol. I'll try it I promise