Is car toys right? Or just trying to sell me stuff???

95lincdog

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I have 2 xm-zr1850 sony xplod amps. 1000w peak each. Car toys said since they have 2 30a fuses each, that each amp needs a 4 gauge power wire from a d-block with atleast a 2 gauge to the battery. Right now a have a 4 gauge into 2 8 gauges for power. Is that fine or do I need what they are saying?

 
Definitely don't skimp on wiring. People pay hundreds for subs and amps no problem, then cheap out on wire and get the bare minimum. i don't get it..

 
Not trying to cheap out. I stated in a previous thread that's what I was going to have and ppl said it was fine. I'm a noob and only heard of watts determining power wire size, not the fuse amperage numbers. Really I'm just trying to track down why my bass is lowering itself. Like if it's a voltage drop or if my amps are going out. Is there a way to test an amp with a simple volt meter? A couple days ago I didn't know my positive battery cable was loose and I had my music loud. Some weird things happened withe the speaker sounds. Do u think that might have burnt my amps?

 
Thats 1200wrms out of those Sony amps based on fuse size. No way they are 100% efficient. Id be willing to be gains are set incorrectly. Couple that with mediocre quality amps and 8awg wire. You have a recipe for disaster.

What car are these amps in? How big is your alt? Have you done the big 3 upgrades? Any battery upgrades? Any alt upgrades? Where are the amps grounded?

Far to many possibilities for us to give you sound advice without knowing the specifics.

 
95 Lincoln town car. Stock 95amp alternator. Stock battery. The 8 gauge from the d-block is 1ft long to the first amp. 2ft to the second amp. They are each grounded with 8 gauge wire to the metal in the trunk that the trunk lid hinges are connected to (both are grounded to the same bolt). I bought the whole setup on a peice of plywood that has the d-block, 2 capacitors, a crossover, and the 2 amps. Already prewired. My friend had it in his 03 town car on a 4 gauge power wire with stock batt and alt as well and he said this never happened in his car.

 
Thats 1200wrms out of those Sony amps based on fuse size. No way they are 100% efficient. Id be willing to be gains are set incorrectly. Couple that with mediocre quality amps and 8awg wire. You have a recipe for disaster.
What car are these amps in? How big is your alt? Have you done the big 3 upgrades? Any battery upgrades? Any alt upgrades? Where are the amps grounded?

Far to many possibilities for us to give you sound advice without knowing the specifics.
that's only if it's at 10volts, that's closer to an RMS rating b/c it'd be at 12-14v than take away for efficiency.

considering that quality 4 gauge is rated for 100-120 amps (depending on brand), 4 gauge into an 8 gauge distribution block to each amp would be fine.

 
that's only if it's at 10volts, that's closer to an RMS rating b/c it'd be at 12-14v than take away for efficiency.
considering that quality 4 gauge is rated for 100-120 amps (depending on brand), 4 gauge into an 8 gauge distribution block to each amp would be fine.
My figures were ballpark assuming the amps actually did rated. There is a huge chance that they dont even do rated power and are just over fused.

 
I don't know much about amps but I was thinking Maybe it is the alternator, because if it takes 20 minutes to lower the bass, the alternator tries to keep refill the battery and can for a little while, but can't keep up with the amp pull of power after time. My friends car it worked fine in has a stock 130a alt, where mine is only 95a. He didn't do the big 3 or have upgraded batt/alt. could that be possible?

 
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