Is a fuse(s) necessary with big 3?

[Tone415 10+ year member]

The argument is that if the fuse blows, your alternator will see the battery as empty, and will attempt to charge it. This will melt your remaining wire//catch it on fire and overwork/kill your alt.
If you do not have a fuse, and there is a short and the connection is maintained, the battery will explode and cover everything with intensely hot acid and release various deadly gasses. And your wire will eventually melt/catch fire and your alternator most likely die.

Of course, what are the chances that your alt//bat will short circuit? if it does, and your still driving, you'll probably notice a huge dim and your battery will be worked until it dies.

a fuse simply at the bat+ will save your battery in the case of a short, but the remaining wire to the alt will catch fire.

A fuse at the alt + will save your bat and prevent the wire from catching fire.

it is a misconception to always fuse at the battery.

you always fuse at the SOURCE. which is MOST often the battery.

But in the alt+ to bat+ connection, the source of power is the alternator.

Isn't that the point of adding wire to the big 3 rather than replaciing the stock wire? If your altenator tries to charge but can't through your 1/0 g it will charge through your stock wire, just like it would normally.

 

[Lil Poot 5,000+ posts]

i have both of the 1/0 runs from my alt + to bat + fused, close in to the battery.

the way i figured, in the event of a horrible accident where my entire front end is twisted metal, theres a decent chance that one or both of those cables is severed and/or grounded. while i'm bleeding out of every hole in my body and hoping the jaws of life dont take too long to arrive, i'd rather not be worrying about my battery being short circuited under the hood and causing a fire.

fusing close to the alternator makes absolutely no sense to me. if that wire, which in my case are about 6 feet long since they run along my firewall, is grounded anywhere between the fuse and the battery, you have a short circuit condition with no fuse protection. if you fuse close to the alt, the entire length between the fuse and battery is at risk of a short circuit, why not keep that length down to a few inches?

besides, like was said before if you pop the alternator to bat fuse, its going to charge back through the stock wire (which is fused, by a fusible link or traditional fuse in almost all vehicles... where the hell are you guys getting this shitty information?) not melt your 1/0 lead. a power wire has to lead someplace to conduct electrons... if it stops at the fuse, electrons are no longer flowing, no longer causing any heat, certainly not melting the wire which is no long part of a complete circuit. cmon guys, think.

 

[Nut Hair Trick 10+ year member]

Excellent topic. I have my big 3 done and have been in between deciding whether to fuse or not. I was going to REPLACE the alt+ to battery+ and didnt want to fuse because of the fear of the fuse blowing and me being stuck somewhere. It now makes sense, to just ADD the 1/0 with fuse.

 

[Lil Poot 5,000+ posts]

yeah, dont remove any of the stock wires, just add your own.

 

[prototype561 10+ year member]

Interesting, my car comes with a factory fuse in between the battery and the alt. i believe. Does anyone else has this or am i looking at the wrong wire.

 

[prototype561 10+ year member]

Interesting, my car comes with a factory fuse in between the battery and the alt. i believe. Does anyone else have this or am i looking at the wrong wire?

 

[MegaloJntariac 10+ year member]

Can someone explain why a fuse is needed. Because just saying it could kill your batts isn't really saying to much about why? It would make sense to me that if you hve a stock alt you would not need a fuse between the batt and alt jus becauuse the simple fact that my battery never died with the stock wiring!

Nothing to do with killing your battery. Its to prevent that wire from catching fire and burn your whole ****ing car down. Do you have brain? Fuse it! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[MegaloJntariac 10+ year member]

Look I made a funny

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6434418&postcount=22

 

[Tone415 10+ year member]

i have both of the 1/0 runs from my alt + to bat + fused, close in to the battery.
the way i figured, in the event of a horrible accident where my entire front end is twisted metal, theres a decent chance that one or both of those cables is severed and/or grounded. while i'm bleeding out of every hole in my body and hoping the jaws of life dont take too long to arrive, i'd rather not be worrying about my battery being short circuited under the hood and causing a fire.

fusing close to the alternator makes absolutely no sense to me. if that wire, which in my case are about 6 feet long since they run along my firewall, is grounded anywhere between the fuse and the battery, you have a short circuit condition with no fuse protection. if you fuse close to the alt, the entire length between the fuse and battery is at risk of a short circuit, why not keep that length down to a few inches?

besides, like was said before if you pop the alternator to bat fuse, its going to charge back through the stock wire (which is fused, by a fusible link or traditional fuse in almost all vehicles... where the hell are you guys getting this shitty information?) not melt your 1/0 lead. a power wire has to lead someplace to conduct electrons... if it stops at the fuse, electrons are no longer flowing, no longer causing any heat, certainly not melting the wire which is no long part of a complete circuit. cmon guys, think.

Very well said. Because if this post im fusing my wire from bat to alt

 

[Tone415 10+ year member]

Nothing to do with killing your battery. Its to prevent that wire from catching fire and burn your whole ****ing car down. Do you have brain? Fuse it! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

Hey u dumb fukk **** bag! How bout u read the fukin 1st page when every one was saying id rather replace a fuse than a battery you dumb fukk! Do you have a brain!? Use it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[Lil Poot 5,000+ posts]

Interesting, my car comes with a factory fuse in between the battery and the alt. i believe. Does anyone else has this or am i looking at the wrong wire.

just about every vehicle will have the stock charging wire fused, or have an in-line fusible link.

 

[prototype561 10+ year member]

just about every vehicle will have the stock charging wire fused, or have an in-line fusible link.

oh ok, i didnt remember seeing it in my old car, thanks for the heads up

 

[smoka 10+ year member]

The argument is that if the fuse blows, your alternator will see the battery as empty, and will attempt to charge it. This will melt your remaining wire//catch it on fire and overwork/kill your alt.

That is wrong. Current is supplied based on the load (batt and accessories). Current is not pushed down the wire when there is nothing there. If the alt-to-batt fuse blows, your wire will not burn up but there is a chance you can damage your alt.

it is a misconception to always fuse at the battery.you always fuse at the SOURCE. which is MOST often the battery.

But in the alt+ to bat+ connection, the source of power is the alternator.

Not really true either. The alt doesn't store power, so when it fries it just stops working. But a batt will overheat and possibly explode which is much more important!

 

[sqhertz 5,000+ posts]

wasnt there a pic somewhere of someones exploded battery? iirc , it wasnt a pretty site.

thats like saying you dont HAVE to fuse the power wire going from bat+ to your amps (which you dont) , but you and i would rather replace a $1-5 fuse than a $100-500+ amplifier/alternator/battery in the event something does happen.

 

[94'BLKBRD 10+ year member]

what size Amp for the fuse?