Internal wire broke in half in RE XXX, any way to fix it?

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

soldering speaker wire in place of the gap for the lead will not work. i've tried this before using new run of tinsel lead and had it fail rather quickly.
look. if there is a short peice of lead sticking out of the underside of the cone then you are gold. all you need is 1/4" of lenght sticking out of the side of it. what you should do is start by removing the tinsel lead on the speaker wire terminals.

next, take a peice of new tinsel lead and measure it from the cone to the speaker wire terminal on the side that has the NON-broken lead to get a proper/matching length that you will need.

just mark the tinsel with a marker so you know your lenght.

next lay the tip of your new tinsel side by side with the existing lead that is 1/4" long. solder them up heavily so they have 1/4" in lenght worth of contact. after they are soldered take some heavy duty 2-part epoxy and glue the soldered portion down to the CONE of the basket or the felt pad. allow the epoxy to cure properly. after the epoxy has cured you may now snip the lead to the proper lenght at the mark that you made and solder it onto the wire terminal. you can add just a little more lead if you need to conpensate for the amount that has been glued to the cone.

if you understand what i tried to explain it should hold and function like new. i did this to my XXX and it has yet to break. the epoxied part is still attached to the cone, and i've abused the living shit out of that speaker too.

Ok, let me see if I understand correctly. I just checked and there is at least 1 inch of lead still attached to the cone, that you can see on the underside. So I take the new tinsel, solder it next to the old one at about 1/4 inches, and then press both down against the cone and epoxy the soldered "joint" to the cone, and then just solder it into the wire terminal? How can you solder so close to the voice coils in order to get the leads together, without damaging the voice coils?

Also, where can I get lead tinsel?

 

[fbi90909 5,000+ posts]

Ok, let me see if I understand correctly. I just checked and there is at least 1 inch of lead still attached to the cone, that you can see on the underside. So I take the new tinsel, solder it next to the old one at about 1/4 inches, and then press both down against the cone and epoxy the soldered "joint" to the cone, and then just solder it into the wire terminal? How can you solder so close to the voice coils in order to get the leads together, without damaging the voice coils?
Also, where can I get lead tinsel?

i bought tinsel lead from FI. for a quicker response just send them a prepaid envelope and like 5 bucks with a letter asking for some tinsel lead to repair your XXX and they'll mail you back some.

if you go about asking them by email you're going to end up spending like 2 weeks trying to get some.

out of the 1 inch you can trim it down to about 1/4". no need for that much.

the voice coil is not that close to the tinsel lead as you think. it actually sits almost 2 inches deeper from where the spider is glued at so don't worry.

an easy way to do this is to lay the 1/4" lead ONTO the cone along with your new lead. then solder them together on one side. then when they are soldered together lay it on the spider, then solder the other side that hasn't been soldered. if you are scared of burning anything lay tape or foil around the spider and cone.

 

[iamamp3pimp 5,000+ posts]

thats one way to do it

the way that id teach involves removing the dustcap and getting a replacement if you tear it.

 

[fbi90909 5,000+ posts]

when i get home in an hour i'll look for pics of when i did mine to give you an idea..

um, i agree with you iamamp that that would be the proper way to do it. though one would have to be pretty skilled in doing so. i failed twice with an XXX 18 and an SX 12 trying to find the lead under all that CA glue under the dustcap.

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

I got the lead tinsels now, but I was checking it out in the inside of the sub, and it seems you are about an inch away from the voice coils in the area where you need to solder, and basically soldering less than an inch away from the cone. Has anyone ever done this before with an XXX, and did it fix it for a reasonable amount of time?

I don't even know what sub to get to replace this. I have a Nine.1 amp (about 1200 watts rms), and a ported box (2.5 cu ft tuned to 32 hz). I would need a sub at least as good as the XXX, possibly better. But the new XXX's require 2000 watts rms, and I only have 1200.

 

[skmfkr 5,000+ posts]

any sub that doesnt have tinsel leads that break is better imo. so no re/fi

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

any sub that doesnt have tinsel leads that break is better imo. so no re/fi

what sub on the market is even available that would (1). Be good in a ported box w/ 1200 watts rms, and (2). Be at least as good as the older RE XXX's, if not better.

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

Is there any way to run a new 12 inch XXX in a 2.5 cu ft box tuned to 32 hz with only 1200 watts rms? Or does it need at least 2000 watts rms?

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

What about selling the ported box, and getting 2 15 inch Fi Q subs, and running them off of the Nine.1 in a basic sealed box? Do you guys think that would be an upgrade from a single XXX in a ported box? I have always like punchy tight pace anyway, but I definately do not want to spend more money to get a downgrade.

 

[skmfkr 5,000+ posts]

i had 2 tinsel leads break on a fi q 15, so good luck with that

i dunno get a dc audio lvl 4 12, or an ssa icon. yeah i think id get an ssa icon they are like $200ish i think

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

any sub that doesnt have tinsel leads that break is better imo. so no re/fi

Fi has tinsels integrated into the spider now tard...

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

nG

 

[skmfkr 5,000+ posts]

Fi has tinsels integrated into the spider now tard...
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

nG

well good for them. i had mine two years ago

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

Sweetass...

Just correcting your misinformation...

nG

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

Well yesterday me and my roommate replaced the tinsels, and today we tried it and it works!!!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif I just hope it stays fixed. Kind of too good to be true. Cost 8 bucks to fix it, and it doesn't even make any tinsel slap or grinding noises at all, sounds like it did when I had it new. Thanks a lot guys, saved me at least 150 on a recone with shipping, and probably 400-500 bucks from not having to buy a replacement sub.

Only problem is I am ultra paranoid to crank it now, I'm not sure how long this fix will last, and it was kind of a pain to do it

 

[iamamp3pimp 5,000+ posts]

I got the lead tinsels now, but I was checking it out in the inside of the sub, and it seems you are about an inch away from the voice coils in the area where you need to solder, and basically soldering less than an inch away from the cone. Has anyone ever done this before with an XXX, and did it fix it for a reasonable amount of time?
I don't even know what sub to get to replace this. I have a Nine.1 amp (about 1200 watts rms), and a ported box (2.5 cu ft tuned to 32 hz). I would need a sub at least as good as the XXX, possibly better. But the new XXX's require 2000 watts rms, and I only have 1200.

you can soldier there, it will be fine

thats how the leads are attached to the coil anyway