Infiniti M35 13w7 1000/1 help

[prohockeygoalie 10+ year member]

So i've had a little run around with the small shop subwoofers and loved memphis mojo (still have it and can't sell the **** thing) but new car means new sub

I put a 6cubed diamond port box in the back with an extra battery and fuse right next to the 1000/1 amp which gets hot enough to cook an egg on....also the low voltage blue light turns on everytime it goes out.

the overly paid people at sound advice were more than happy to install it because of the cost but the problem is that it was working for 3 days straight thumping than on the end of the 3rd night it would only thump when the volume was turned down very low and there was this horrible smell of burning rubber/plastic.

so i take it back they said it was the fuse on the extra battery and i saw the battery company was "SVR". after they replaced the fuse i made sure the battery had time to charge than turned it up to only get that smell again and now it's not working whatsoever. if i replaced it with a gel top red/yellow optima would the problem be solved or is it the alternator....or am i just completely screwed?

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[thatkidbob 10+ year member]

ummm.

i don't think the problem is the battery or the alternator, or even the fuse bro //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[prohockeygoalie 10+ year member]

ummm.
i don't think the problem is the battery or the alternator, or even the fuse bro //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

i'm just not even sure where to go from here

what do you think it is possibly?

 

[thatkidbob 10+ year member]

it sounds like you might have cooked your amp.

the quick way to figure out would be to do simple, diagnostic, process of elimination testing. I'd move your amp to a different car... if it works there, the amp's ok and its something else thats f'd up. If not you've got your culprit...

 

[prohockeygoalie 10+ year member]

it sounds like you might have cooked your amp.
the quick way to figure out would be to do simple, diagnostic, process of elimination testing. I'd move your amp to a different car... if it works there, the amp's ok and its something else thats f'd up. If not you've got your culprit...

would there be a way to test it without putting it into another car?

 

[prohockeygoalie 10+ year member]

bump

 

[prohockeygoalie 10+ year member]

ok so the local audio shop tested the amp and said i should get a 1500watt amp for it.... but isn't it already drawing too much voltage?

anyways what 1500watt amp would be good for daily on a 13w7

 

[lrgnation 10+ year member]

kicker zx1500.1

rockford fosgate power...

ia 20.1

orion 1200d

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

Yeah kid, looks like you cooked your JL. open it up and see if anything is burnt. If you need a new amp, my vote is for the 20.1

 

[dB Dom 10+ year member]

I doubt you cooked the JL, those amps are pretty bulletproof.

But I would however suggest turning down the gain. Its called "LEVEL" on the jl amp. and turn down bass boost etc.

Then research on how to set that amp correctly. Its pretty complicated to a new user, as was my 500/1 when I first got it.

Oh and BTW you said they tested the amp... What did they say is wrong??

 

[TheVanMan 10+ year member]

I would try simplifying your setup and see what happens. Run the 1000/1 directly to the original battery and see if it works then. If it works then it's not your amp and the problem lies somewhere in the second battery connection. Recheck you connections and make sure you don't have a short anywhere.

When I first started to do car stereos, I brought my stuff to a shop they drilled a panel screw through the positive wire and into the chassis and blew almost every fuse in my system. The only way I noticed it was to go through the entire install myself and I have been installing my own stuff eversince.

 

[prohockeygoalie 10+ year member]

I would try simplifying your setup and see what happens. Run the 1000/1 directly to the original battery and see if it works then. If it works then it's not your amp and the problem lies somewhere in the second battery connection. Recheck you connections and make sure you don't have a short anywhere.
When I first started to do car stereos, I brought my stuff to a shop they drilled a panel screw through the positive wire and into the chassis and blew almost every fuse in my system. The only way I noticed it was to go through the entire install myself and I have been installing my own stuff eversince.

the guy at the shop said the amp was fine but was cornered into the trunk where it wasn't getting enough ventilation unless i open the arm rest trunk access panel.

this guy just was puzzled it worked without an upgraded alternator i'm going to try to get him to run the 4awg direct and as for the level thing they had it turned up basically all the way.... so there's another issue.

pics tomorrow

 

[dB Dom 10+ year member]

You defenitely need 4 gauge for this amp, and the level shouldnt be maxed out.

 

[prohockeygoalie 10+ year member]

wound up having to switch to a 10w7 and back to the 500/1 unfortunetly...

I do not like this sub but seems i'm not sure what to do because any more wattage is too much for the car to handle and infiniti can't upgrade the alternator whatsoever.

maybe time to go back to the 12w6v2...

 

[Mugen 10+ year member]

wound up having to switch to a 10w7 and back to the 500/1 unfortunetly...I do not like this sub but seems i'm not sure what to do because any more wattage is too much for the car to handle and infiniti can't upgrade the alternator whatsoever.

maybe time to go back to the 12w6v2...

Can you upgrade the alt?