In need of help concerning jl audio system! 13.5 w7 and component what amps to run!

[Lewdog77]

So basically I'm an audio enthusiast and I'm in love with quality sound and bass.. I used to have an old system back in high school two 12 Kenwood tornados and some cheap Kenwood speakers to boot.. anyway it hit hard but sound quality and good bass definitely lacked.. now them I'm older and make my own money I'd like to turn my car audio into something that more exciting that my riders with compliment and I will love.. so here we go

I'm looking for a build that is both SQ and Spl.. I know I can't perfect both but basically I'd like to be able to turn my bass down low at times and enjoy crisp music other times I want to be able to really boom.. here's what I have in mind for my build and I'd like suggestions on how I could change it to achieve what I'm looking for and if it will work. And yes I don't really want to switch from jl audioxide although I probably could get the same for cheaper.. I just love jl

Here we go HU 8200 Nex by Pioneer

Dash JL Audio C2-350x 3.5in 2 way

Doors and tweeters JL Audio ZR650‑CSi

Back speakers JL Audio C2-690 TX 6x9

Subwoofer JL Audio 13.5 W7

SLASH 1V3 1200 MONO for the subwoofer

Basically I'm not sure on which other amps with work with my setup do I need 2 more? Or can I run an 8 channel amplifier, which capacitator should I get? Any thing else I need besides wire and ground block please help me out! Thanks for any feedback I'm looking to start my system build right away! Any ideas or opinions let me know.. just know I am a JL fan loved them since I first heard them

Click to read more...

 

[garychoffmann 10+ year member]

Is this a dodge? Just guessing from speaker sizes. You mentioned an 8 channel are you planning on running active? The jl 1200 should have a bass knob. Set the amp up accordingly with the bass knob UP. That way you can dial back the bass. If you use the passive crossovers on the components you could get away with a 6 channel. I personally would run the rear 6x9's off the deck power. Amplify the components and would omit the 3.5's in the dash. Maybe use that for the tweeter location.

If you feel the need to amplify all of the speakers it may be harf to get a good soundstage.

 

[Lewdog77]

Thanks, I messaged you! Any other imput from anyone would be appreciated also I have a 2012 chrysler 200.. 3.5 dash speakers and 6x9 front doors and in the back

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thanks, I messaged you! Any other imput from anyone would be appreciated also I have a 2012 chrysler 200.. 3.5 dash speakers and 6x9 front doors and in the back

If you want to run dash speakers and rears, you would need a 10 channel DSP like the helix dsp pro. If you ditch the rears, you can do a 3 way active front stage where the doors will handle the midbass, dash will handle midrange and tweets will be in its optimum location. You will have to get a 6 channel amp and ditch the passive crossovers completely and really tune it properly with matching up crossover slopes and points and time aligning each speaker.

Forget spending any money on the rear 6x9s, they arent needed at all and its pretty detrimental to the soundstage. Either wa you will want to make room in your budget for a digital sound processor and sound deadening and door treatments.

Im assuming you are looking for perfection here. I would also try to stay away from coaxials in the dash, get something that doesnt have a tweeter on it focused on the midrange.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

If you want to run dash speakers and rears, you would need a 10 channel DSP like the helix dsp pro. If you ditch the rears, you can do a 3 way active front stage where the doors will handle the midbass, dash will handle midrange and tweets will be in its optimum location. You will have to get a 6 channel amp and ditch the passive crossovers completely and really tune it properly with matching up crossover slopes and points and time aligning each speaker.
Forget spending any money on the rear 6x9s, they arent needed at all and its pretty detrimental to the soundstage. Either wa you will want to make room in your budget for a digital sound processor and sound deadening and door treatments.

Im assuming you are looking for perfection here. I would also try to stay away from coaxials in the dash, get something that doesnt have a tweeter on it focused on the midrange.

This is very good advice.

I didn't see anybody else say it either, but do have a proper box built for the W7. Just dropping it in a prefab will be asking for disappointment.

Money spent in sound deadening and prepping install locations of FRONTS will give you a lot more bang for your buck than trying to use a lot of speakers and filling every stock location.

JL makes good quality amps that should last you many years and their speakers sound great. Keep it simple. You don't need nearly as much as you think you do to have good and loud music.

*Edit*

Also don't bother with caps ever, period. Seems like money isn't an issue, buy a premium AGM style battery up front and you should be fine. If you think you need more a high output alternator is the optimum way to feed amps. I have been using Excessive Amperage for many years now and Nathan does me right. Can't go wrong with Ohio Generator, or Mechman either. All of those have been around many years and are well regarded. There's a few other companies that may be good as well but they're newer and I won't vouch for them just because I've never dealt with them or known enough guys who do deal with them.

Extra battery will get the job done and is cheaper, but you have to deal with mounting an extra battery and that extra 70 pounds kicking around. If you have the money, alternator is the way to go.

 

[tommydh 10+ year member]

I don't have a Chrysler but I do have another P.I.A. car to do audio in 2015 Mini cooper. IMO I would just do the components up front with a co axial set in rear or strait mid range drivers with sub. Easier to set up and get the SQ your looking for. I know JL has a very good product Ive ran them from back in 1995 with 2 10 w6s in a cavalier to 6-12's in a s 10 but there are a lot of options out there for less cost. Not saying go cheap Im just saying theres some subs or amps by a variety of manufacturers that may fit your goals. If being installed at a local shop JL may be the line they carry and make it ridiculously expensive to carry in products. I had the stealth box in my old Mini till another guy bought it then I redid entire system for what I had in the stealth system, That included Pioneer 80 PRS Rockford T800.4,T1500.1bd Kicker SS components and 2 SD 102s. As faras Capacacitor do Big 3 first you may find no need to use Cap.

 

[Lewdog77]

If I go with JL 13.5 I'm getting it with the sealed box that JL sells it in.. I know the box is an extremely important component and by sound deadening you are referring to dynomat I take it?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

If I go with JL 13.5 I'm getting it with the sealed box that JL sells it in.. I know the box is an extremely important component and by sound deadening you are referring to dynomat I take it?

you are overpaying for what you get with dynamat and the jl sealed box.

That JL sealed box is just like any other sealed box on the market just horrendously overpriced, really makes zero difference if you buy their box or some other companie's box because with sealed it doesnt really matter as there's absolutely ZERO engineering or design involved vs ported, 1/4 wave Transmission lines or 4th order enclosures. Better yet, build your own.

Deadener that can outright destroy dynamat include second skin, stinger expert roadkill, nvx, knukonceptz 100 mill, sky high 120 mill, all of them makes dynamat look like a chump specs and performance wise.