I'm Tired...Deep Bass within Small Parameters

but remember

How To Design Your High Output Sub Enclosure

We don’t believe in the tiny sub box theory. If you are looking for tiny sound, get a tiny sub and put it in a tiny box. Be happy. If you are looking for real bass, you need to have a real box.

In order to get true high performance, you have to make the most of the available airspace you have. To do otherwise is wasting your time, energy and money. Don’t try to fit a larger speaker in a box that is better suited for the next size down. Our subs all have the same amount of throw, the same force available, and the smaller sub in the right space will outperform the larger sub in too small an airspace.

The first step in getting major bass in your vehicle is to allocate the space for your enclosure. If you really want to flex some sheet metal, the old adage applies, “there is no substitute for cubic inches”. The more space you make available, the higher the potential spl.

You don’t have to use a large amount of enclosure space to make a loud system; loud can be done with a single Audioque sub. The amount of loud needs to be determined as you figure out what space you plan to give up. Really loud bass, where you have to scream at your passengers, can be done on a single or double woofer setup. Stupid loud bass, where there is no point in trying to communicate in the vehicle, takes more space and bigger/more subs. F@#$ing crazy loud bass, where it is impossible for the car next to you to communicate inside his vehicle, takes even more space, even more subs and a gazillion watts of power.

A few tips on what to pay attention to when determining the box shape:

If you plan to use a rear firing setup in a trunk car, make sure your box doesn’t seal off the trunk from the passenger compartment. You need to leave some space for the waves to pass back into the interior of the car. Either make the box as low as possible so the wave passes over the box and enters the cabin via the seatback and rear deck, or reduce the width of the box so the wave can pass to the side and into the car’s interior. A big, giant box may make your trunk extremely loud, but all you’ll hear is muffled rattle if the box takes up the whole space behind the rear seat and under the rear deck.

If you have a hatchback car, keep the box as far back in the vehicle as possible. Keep the port as far to the rear as possible.

 
what is ur goal sq spl or sql
SQL

I plan to supply the low end with something in the arena of a Kicker ZX750 or Sundown 1000.

Given the limfacs, I know that I cannot achieve the monster system of tomorrow. However, I would love to have some back shaking lows.

 
you could have just put up the link instead of wasting all that spacehttp://www.audioque.com/aq/subEnclosure.htm

and why 2 10's sealed? alot of 12's do well in .95^3 sealed.
yea i suppose u could seal two 12's but ported maximizes ur output and will cost less

bottom line any quality woofer with 1000 watts should do u well and the more cone area the better

and i just post what i want to say incase links dont work

 
SQL
I plan to supply the low end with something in the arena of a Kicker ZX750 or Sundown 1000.

Given the limfacs, I know that I cannot achieve the monster system of tomorrow. However, I would love to have some back shaking lows.
I'm working with ~2^3 beneath the rear set of an extended cab Silverado. My desire is to maintain seat functionality, while avoiding the potential of someone kicking the sub accidentially or intentially (i.e. down fired).

 
yea i suppose u could seal two 12's but ported maximizes ur output and will cost less
bottom line any quality woofer with 1000 watts should do u well and the more cone area the better

and i just post what i want to say incase links dont work
he stated that he has 500$, which is plenty. personally, i would rather run 2 500 watt subs sealed as opposed to 1 1000 watt sub ported. that's just my personal experience and preference. some would choose exactly the opposite.

 
i actually agree with u b/c you have more cone area more mechanical to dissapate heat

i just figured everyone likes a deal and i would let u know for u to consider

but technically the port area acts as a cone as well

 
I'm working with ~2^3 beneath the rear set of an extended cab Silverado. My desire is to maintain seat functionality, while avoiding the potential of someone kicking the sub accidentially or intentially (i.e. down fired).
in my extended cab s10, i downfired 2 12's for that exact reason. the jumper seat still drops down, but an adult barely fits. i just designed a box for mine with a seat built in to the center of the box. i haven't actually built it yet. i'll see how it works. it's entirely possible that it'll take a couple tries to get it right.

 
fi u could squeek out 2 cu ft net, u could run two of these and u WILL be happy
http://www.low-hz.com/commerce/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_24&products_id=37
never heard those. they look nice. i'd try 'em

i had 2 of these in my sonoma. i loved 'em. they got stolen at about 3 months old:verymad:

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-XTANT-X2-1244-SUBWOOFER-12-SUB-NEW-WOOFER-1200W_W0QQitemZ290190230246QQihZ019QQcategoryZ18803QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638.m118

 
Some of whats in that link explains things to me:

See, my 15" box I had built for an Avalanche 15", it sits just under the rear deck and has very little space for the waves to pass by on the sides.

Now, when I put my single 10" Bl in there, in a 1.25 cube box, it sound better for some reason, yea, the Ava and the other 15's I put in that box were louder, but for some reason, I liked that single 10" Bl better.

I am thinking the waves had little difficulty reaching the inside of the car as there was plenty of space for the waves to pass over and around the box.

I really feel my Altima's trunk is better suited to 2 12's/1 12 or 2 10's/ 1 10 , vs 1 15" in a big ole box taking up all kinds of space!

 
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