I'm putting together a complete system.

I finally got the front and rear speakers in. What a nightmare. A lot of fabrication went into getting the front speakers and tweeters in. I may need to adjust something in the front left speaker because every once in a while I hear a random flutter or rattle, maybe due to something not secure. I had to cut a hole into the doors to get the woofer to fit and it just barely clears the window with the included spacer. I cut holes into the vinyl in the top of the door to mount the tweeters. Came out nice. Overall I really enjoy the speakers. I'm still waiting on the sub, and the amp just came in the mail today. If the prefab box really does sound that bad, I was able to acquire some plans thanks to a member here, and I'll build a custom box.

 
It would appear a lot of the professional guys are making this experience a little too complicated.I was once in your shoes, too. I had an Accord, Civic, Integra and multiple other vehicles of that generation with stock systems. I hated them all.

In my experience, you don't NEED an amplifier for your door and rear speakers unless you're trying to pierce your ears with high frequencies.

Currently, I have a 2008 Scion xB and before that I had a 2004 Scion xB and even before that I had a 94 Toyota 4runner.

Even with speakers that have disintegrated, my head unit with a 200hz high pass filter and 5 band parametric equalizer cleaned all that up.

Same with my friends' and families' car. All this was achieved with an Alpine CDA-9886 head unit. which costs somewhere around $250.

Yes, this head unit is VERY outdated, so don't go out and buy that. I don't even think they sell it anymore.

With a decent subwoofer and amplifier in a pre-fab box, you don't have to spend more than $750.

Pre-fab 12" boxes shouldn't cost more than $75, but for rock, I recommend 10" subs for faster response times.

I'm currently running an Alpine ICS-x7HD which is much too expensive for your budget, but

the Alpine UTE-52BT is listed at $140 which has a 9 band parametric equalizer plus high and low pass cross-overs.

Hell, I used to run FOUR 8" Qpower silver series on a Planet Audio Big Bang 1000watt version1.

The speakers I got for $25 a piece and the planet audio I got for $120.

In my experience, flea markets are where you want to shop for cheap but decent car audio products.

These guys on this forum are heavy hitters. They're always looking for quality and precision.

I've never had more than a couple hundred bucks to buy anything fancy, so I always bought whatever works.

Don't buy speakers that cost more than a hundred bucks and don't buy amps that cost more than $500.

For decent subwoofers, I always aim for around 1000 watts RMS amps and speakers.

I've always loved Memphis, but they're over-priced and hard to find cheap.

I'm currently running DB Drive K912d4s which I got for $250 a piece, but they "rattle people's homes".

And my amp is DB Drive a7.2500.1 which isn't very strong and over-priced.

Back in the day, I got a Memphis 16-PRD1000.1 for $150 and I think you'd be happy with that if you can find it's equivalent.

Definitely stay away from big brand box stores or whatever you call bestbuy walmart or whatnot. They only sell junk that is overpriced.

Oh ... and get your hands on a set of $10-$20 tweeters. You don't need to spend $100 on a set of components. Its just not necessary.

Alpines head-units do run a little weak, so if its still not loud enough, get a cheap 50x4 amplifier, but make sure it is truly 50watts RMS.

A lot of companies tend to botch their numbers just so people will unknowingly buy their products.

1. You are definitely not a professional in the audio field.

2. A 10" sub is NOT faster than a 12" sub.

3. Prefab boxes are garbage.

4. Flea market equipment is garbage.

5. I'm tired of listing things, but just about every aspect of your post is awful.

**** i didnt know that haha
That is a terrible myth that needs to die

 
Couple of Qs -

1- I have 14ga speaker wire. Is that enough for the sub?

2- How do you know what box would work with the sub you have? In other words, if I had plans for a certain box to build, how do I know it would work for the sub I had?

3- Kind of off topic, but what makes you decide on a certain size sub? I was always under the impression that smaller subs hit higher bass notes and larger subs could only hit higher notes. Is that true?

 
1. Should be fine for low power. Most people use 12 gauge. I use a lot bigger

2. With T/S perameters, you can model the theoretical response curves for different boxes on WinISD

3. I first look at how the sub looks. If it looks cool, I see how much power it can handle, lol.

No, that statement is false.

 
They make different sized subs because people have different amounts of space to use for a box.

A smaller sub will be able to play lower than a larger sub in a small box.

If you have space for a bigger box, a larger sub will allow you to play just as low, but louder. Don't try to cram big subs if you don't have enough space for the enclosure.

"Space makes bass".

Any time

 
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