I'm putting together a complete system.

I would completely disagree with you on that. Rock sounds better then it ever had with the punch the hdcs have. But i would agree that the HDCs are overkill.

By the bolded portion, I did not mean it wouldn't sound good for rock. I just don't think he's looking for something like that.

I could be mistaken. Haven't been keeping up-to-date on this thread, and don't intend to re-read it.

 
Hds312s are on back order until July so i went ahead and bought the 212s. I put the front and rear speakers in, and while i will say they do need power, they are miles above the stock speakers. Also, the 2005 honda accord is a caraudio engineering nightmare. I had to completely remove the entire door panel to get the the stock speaker, which was glued to the door, pried it off and found that the 6.5 doesnt even fit, nor does it have any predrilled holes for screws. Had to sawsall a hole in the door to get the speaker to fit. Looks good though.

If the setup i have is really that bad, ill order a 312, build a custom box and have it powered properly along with the Interior speakers.

 
It would appear a lot of the professional guys are making this experience a little too complicated.

I was once in your shoes, too. I had an Accord, Civic, Integra and multiple other vehicles of that generation with stock systems. I hated them all.

In my experience, you don't NEED an amplifier for your door and rear speakers unless you're trying to pierce your ears with high frequencies.

Currently, I have a 2008 Scion xB and before that I had a 2004 Scion xB and even before that I had a 94 Toyota 4runner.

Even with speakers that have disintegrated, my head unit with a 200hz high pass filter and 5 band parametric equalizer cleaned all that up.

Same with my friends' and families' car. All this was achieved with an Alpine CDA-9886 head unit. which costs somewhere around $250.

Yes, this head unit is VERY outdated, so don't go out and buy that. I don't even think they sell it anymore.

With a decent subwoofer and amplifier in a pre-fab box, you don't have to spend more than $750.

Pre-fab 12" boxes shouldn't cost more than $75, but for rock, I recommend 10" subs for faster response times.

I'm currently running an Alpine ICS-x7HD which is much too expensive for your budget, but

the Alpine UTE-52BT is listed at $140 which has a 9 band parametric equalizer plus high and low pass cross-overs.

Hell, I used to run FOUR 8" Qpower silver series on a Planet Audio Big Bang 1000watt version1.

The speakers I got for $25 a piece and the planet audio I got for $120.

In my experience, flea markets are where you want to shop for cheap but decent car audio products.

These guys on this forum are heavy hitters. They're always looking for quality and precision.

I've never had more than a couple hundred bucks to buy anything fancy, so I always bought whatever works.

Don't buy speakers that cost more than a hundred bucks and don't buy amps that cost more than $500.

For decent subwoofers, I always aim for around 1000 watts RMS amps and speakers.

I've always loved Memphis, but they're over-priced and hard to find cheap.

I'm currently running DB Drive K912d4s which I got for $250 a piece, but they "rattle people's homes".

And my amp is DB Drive a7.2500.1 which isn't very strong and over-priced.

Back in the day, I got a Memphis 16-PRD1000.1 for $150 and I think you'd be happy with that if you can find it's equivalent.

Definitely stay away from big brand box stores or whatever you call bestbuy walmart or whatnot. They only sell junk that is overpriced.

Oh ... and get your hands on a set of $10-$20 tweeters. You don't need to spend $100 on a set of components. Its just not necessary.

Alpines head-units do run a little weak, so if its still not loud enough, get a cheap 50x4 amplifier, but make sure it is truly 50watts RMS.

A lot of companies tend to botch their numbers just so people will unknowingly buy their products.



 
[quote name='peterletran']It would appear a lot of the professional guys are making this experience a little too complicated.
I was once in your shoes, too. I had an Accord, Civic, Integra and multiple other vehicles of that generation with stock systems. I hated them all.
In my experience, you don't NEED an amplifier for your door and rear speakers unless you're trying to pierce your ears with high frequencies.
Currently, I have a 2008 Scion xB and before that I had a 2004 Scion xB and even before that I had a 94 Toyota 4runner.
Even with speakers that have disintegrated, my head unit with a 200hz high pass filter and 5 band parametric equalizer cleaned all that up.
Same with my friends' and families' car. All this was achieved with an Alpine CDA-9886 head unit. which costs somewhere around $250.
Yes, this head unit is VERY outdated, so don't go out and buy that. I don't even think they sell it anymore.
With a decent subwoofer and amplifier in a pre-fab box, you don't have to spend more than $750.
Pre-fab 12" boxes shouldn't cost more than $75, but for rock, I recommend 10" subs for faster response times.

I'm currently running an Alpine ICS-x7HD which is much too expensive for your budget, but
the Alpine UTE-52BT is listed at $140 which has a 9 band parametric equalizer plus high and low pass cross-overs.

Hell, I used to run FOUR 8" Qpower silver series on a Planet Audio Big Bang 1000watt version1.
The speakers I got for $25 a piece and the planet audio I got for $120.

In my experience, flea markets are where you want to shop for cheap but decent car audio products.
These guys on this forum are heavy hitters. They're always looking for quality and precision.
I've never had more than a couple hundred bucks to buy anything fancy, so I always bought whatever works.
Don't buy speakers that cost more than a hundred bucks and don't buy amps that cost more than $500.

For decent subwoofers, I always aim for around 1000 watts RMS amps and speakers.
I've always loved Memphis, but they're over-priced and hard to find cheap.

I'm currently running DB Drive K912d4s which I got for $250 a piece, but they "rattle people's homes".
And my amp is DB Drive a7.2500.1 which isn't very strong and over-priced.

Back in the day, I got a Memphis 16-PRD1000.1 for $150 and I think you'd be happy with that if you can find it's equivalent.

Definitely stay away from big brand box stores or whatever you call bestbuy walmart or whatnot. They only sell junk that is overpriced.

Oh ... and get your hands on a set of $10-$20 tweeters. You don't need to spend $100 on a set of components. Its just not necessary.

Alpines head-units do run a little weak, so if its still not loud enough, get a cheap 50x4 amplifier, but make sure it is truly 50watts RMS.

A lot of companies tend to botch their numbers just so people will unknowingly buy their products.

[/QUOTE]

This is exactly why people should come to forums for advice, because they get this kind of stuff from their cousin or next door neighbor. Nothing a flea market sells is appealing to anyone with taste. @peterletran, no disrespect, but you're only saying this because I am positive you have no experience with something that actually sounds good. Yes, I can throw some pyle speakers on a sony HU. It'll make sound, may even sound better than a TV. If that's the best you've ever heard, you will probably go on a forum and tell everyone that's the way to go. That's why if someone is on a conservative budget, they should probably use all of it. Time and time again it has been shown that cheaping out on stuff costs more in the long run. If he goes to a flea market and buys whatever the hell you're telling him to buy, then has a listen to something that's actually good, he'll want to scrap what he already has. I've played that game, I've had boss, power acoustik, and whatever else nonsense there is out there. My recommendation to you, sir, is to link up with someone from here with quality equipment and have yourself a listen. If the op goes to a flea market and his sh$t blows in 2 months, are you paying him back for it? Doubt it. I don't care if you retracted your statement, this advice has no place here.
 
[quote name='fly_marlin']This is exactly why people should come to forums for advice, because they get this kind of stuff from their cousin or next door neighbor. Nothing a flea market sells is appealing to anyone with taste. @peterletran, no disrespect, but you're only saying this because I am positive you have no experience with something that actually sounds good. Yes, I can throw some pyle speakers on a sony HU. It'll make sound, may even sound better than a TV. If that's the best you've ever heard, you will probably go on a forum and tell everyone that's the way to go. That's why if someone is on a conservative budget, they should probably use all of it. Time and time again it has been shown that cheaping out on stuff costs more in the long run. If he goes to a flea market and buys whatever the hell you're telling him to buy, then has a listen to something that's actually good, he'll want to scrap what he already has. I've played that game, I've had boss, power acoustik, and whatever else nonsense there is out there. My recommendation to you, sir, is to link up with someone from here with quality equipment and have yourself a listen. If the op goes to a flea market and his sh$t blows in 2 months, are you paying him back for it? Doubt it. I don't care if you retracted your statement, this advice has no place here.[/QUOTE]

I see where you're coming from, and I agree with you. You're right. Going to the flea market requires quite a bit more experience to shop for the right products, but I'll have to RESPECTFULLY argue that I've been messing with mobile audio for roughly 15 years and as an Audio Visual Engineer in the Live Entertainment Industry Pyle, Boss, Power Acoustik, and other pieces of turd can all be made to sound much better than whatever he had as a stock stereo if it is done properly. With my 18watt RMS Alpine unit, I can produce cleaner sound than some systems I've seen with a 100x4 highs amplifier. Thank you for telling me to f off, but you don't have to be so rude about it. The man had asked for some pointers in his original post, and with the list he had given us initially, I'm sure we were all thoroughly appalled. It would have been a waste if he had actually gotten the gear he was first mentioning, and is any of the equipment I suggested really all that bad? I'm sorry I can't afford a quality system like most of you guys, but I think some of my advice is sound. Especially for a 1000rms sub system, you shouldn't have to pay more than $500. I'm just afraid the guy would get ripped off like I've been so many times in the past.
 
I didn't tell you to f off. A lot people on here, including myself, have had their share of trial and error. The error was lack of diligence - no research, poor installation, bad equipment. I don't suggest stuff that's out of someone's budget, that's why we ask for it. If someone wants to get "loud" for $100 - sorry, that's not happening. If someone has a stated goal, we run with that. If they don't have the budget to match, they need to either expand their budget or tone down their expectations. Point being here, there are so many options to buy decent quality equipment that flea market doesn't need to be an option. If it were, there's no need to come to the forum - what advice can we give them? "Yes, buy the 5kw max dual sub with neon lights for $40." There are budgets that simply have no room to work with and those people should really get their priorities straight. Car audio isn't going to feed anyone.

As a matter of fact, I'm helping a friend pick out some stuff as we speak. He just wanted some bass for his girl. We are not touching factory anything. Though believe me, I can go on for hours telling him to get this amp, those speakers, these subs, this HU, etc.

Coming to this forum, there's a presumption that someone wants to do something right. I'd never feel good giving someone advice that would simply have them throw away their money. I'm glad you've had good experiences with pyle speakers running off HUs, but if people really want to buy that, they can do that on their own - no advice is needed on anyone's part.

 
I respectfully disagree with everything you have said Peter. We've all been down cheap road. Sure you can polish a turd but its still a turd. Quality control for these flea market companies are next to nothing. It doesnt mean we dont know how to get amazing sound on a budget though.

Idk what systems you've think you've heard or seen but you really need to hit up a sound quality competition to see whats the proper budget stuff and actually hear some high end stuff done right. From what you say, you sound like you've wasted money on decent equipment but never could get it tuned right, dont think of it as being "burned" Car audio is a hobby where you learn new stuff every day. Just be open minded and be thick skinned. No one is trashing you, however misinformation is not tolerated much on here so just be ready for a debate most of the times.

On a side note: I wish You can hear fly marlin's car in real life, you jaw will drop and he's not even half done tuning it.

 
Thanks, Jeff. I equally recommend your car for Peter to distinguish between real loud and flea market loud.

I pass no judgement on people who just want ok sound and decent bump, but throwing away money is not the way to go. Anyway, back on topic now...

 
I see where you're coming from, and I agree with you. You're right. Going to the flea market requires quite a bit more experience to shop for the right products, but I'll have to RESPECTFULLY argue that I've been messing with mobile audio for roughly 15 years and as an Audio Visual Engineer in the Live Entertainment Industry Pyle, Boss, Power Acoustik, and other pieces of turd can all be made to sound much better than whatever he had as a stock stereo if it is done properly. With my 18watt RMS Alpine unit, I can produce cleaner sound than some systems I've seen with a 100x4 highs amplifier. Thank you for telling me to f off, but you don't have to be so rude about it. The man had asked for some pointers in his original post, and with the list he had given us initially, I'm sure we were all thoroughly appalled. It would have been a waste if he had actually gotten the gear he was first mentioning, and is any of the equipment I suggested really all that bad? I'm sorry I can't afford a quality system like most of you guys, but I think some of my advice is sound. Especially for a 1000rms sub system, you shouldn't have to pay more than $500. I'm just afraid the guy would get ripped off like I've been so many times in the past.
You think 10s are faster than 12s. If you have been doing this for 15 years you have been doing it wrong for 15 years.

 
How do i go about getting plans for a custom box?
Hit up CSCstang, he knows his stuff

 

---------- Post added at 10:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:41 AM ----------

 

You think 10s are faster than 12s. If you have been doing this for 15 years you have been doing it wrong for 15 years.
Faster?! arent they just more "accurate" AS apposed to faster?

 
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