im lost on what to power my skar rp 4500 and evl 10's

[HardofWhoring]

We can do the math on the size, but it takes a 450 amp fuse. Plus about 100 if your vehicle is doing all it can (efi, lights, horn, fans, ac, etc). 550 would be mean it would never drop below 14v, but you won't find that. 300-400 depending on the kind of music, when you're maxed out would cover it.

 

[bubs]

We can do the math on the size, but it takes a 450 amp fuse. Plus about 100 if your vehicle is doing all it can (efi, lights, horn, fans, ac, etc). 550 would be mean it would never drop below 14v, but you won't find that. 300-400 depending on the kind of music, when you're maxed out would cover it.

i cant find anything over 220 unless its custom made for over a grand. ill throw 2 extra batteries in the trunk before i drop over a grand on a alternator. i got a tiny ass car i doubt anyone has put this much into audio in a fiesta before.

 

[HardofWhoring]

A battery is a storage bank, and an alt recharges. You're going to need to recharge with that much draw. Even if you can't find something ready made, alternator shops can rebuild yours to be larger. Shouldn't be that much either.

 

[bubs]

A battery is a storage bank, and an alt recharges. You're going to need to recharge with that much draw. Even if you can't find something ready made, alternator shops can rebuild yours to be larger. Shouldn't be that much either.

damn i didnt know that. so u think buying a normal 120 amp alt would be cheaper to upgrade it to lets say 400 or buying a 200 and taking to get upgraded

 

[HardofWhoring]

damn i didnt know that. so u think buying a normal 120 amp alt would be cheaper to upgrade it to lets say 400 or buying a 200 and taking to get upgraded

I don't know about your vehicle, but if they are the same size, just take em a stocker. Don't pay to upgrade it twice. I have no clue how it works, they might have to remove the wire and start fresh.

 

[bubs]

I don't know about your vehicle, but if they are the same size, just take em a stocker. Don't pay to upgrade it twice. I have no clue how it works, they might have to remove the wire and start fresh.

i got told it dosent work like that. they said in order for it to produce more power means it needs to be bigger and thats hard to find. said my best bet was probaly getting a custom

 

[HardofWhoring]

Contact anyone that sells larger ones, and see what they can do for you.

 

[spokey9]

I paid like $470 after tax on my 320a

definitely will. i mean regardless tho ima spend 700 on that alt. u think just running 2 200 amp alternators would be more worth it? i have no idea how hard thatd be tho

You're gonna pay for a dual mount bracket...and that's if there's room for one in your ride

 

[HardofWhoring]

2013-2016 Ford Escape 1.6L 250-320-370-400amp High Output Alternator

Upgrade your 2013-2019 Ford Escape, Fiesta High Amp Alternator with a JS high-output alternator. Ensure reliable power for all electronic components, even under heavy load. Durable & performance-tested. Shop now!

js-alternators.com

 

[bubs]

2013-2016 Ford Escape 1.6L 250-320-370-400amp High Output Alternator

Upgrade your 2013-2019 Ford Escape, Fiesta High Amp Alternator with a JS high-output alternator. Ensure reliable power for all electronic components, even under heavy load. Durable & performance-tested. Shop now!

js-alternators.com

damn i appreciate it. i just got off the phone with so many mfs they all said custom built will either be extremely expensive or near impossible since my pulley is so small

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Parts Search - High output alternators for Car Audio Made in USA

Find the right high-output alternator for your vehicle. High amperage alternators in 30 different colors. Find your make and model.

autotechengineeringusa.com

 

[RyykerH]

i have a 120 amp alternator it was powering it fine til it wasnt lol. but i also have a tiny battery in my car i know i need to buy another battery to put in the trunk but im more lost on what amp alt to get, ive been reading for hours and never a clear answer varying from full on blow ur month pay on a 1 of a kind alt **** yeaa!! to just see what happens with a new stock one. id rather not buy one and regret it after 2 weeks and spend more money on a new one so looking for some advice to prevent me from making a mistake.

If it was me, id go ahead and get the 400amp alt. From pure power 1-520-622-7395 i did buy the stock one first now i have an emergency alternator sitting in a box in my garage, might aswell get the the high output amp you wont worry about it not having power. Also youll need a half inch shorter belt. Oh yeah, btw you’ll definitely need to upgrade the big 3. Thats the chassis ground , the altenator ground, or engine block if the alt grounds to it, and the postive to the altenator. Heres the site i found where i got mine. https://www.tucsonalternator.com/hi...9tBA0Co7rxUdBtWigvFYDFYL27GUXiZhoC_0AQAvD_BwE

 

[TheBigPilferer]

Just make sure you don't buy a cheap eBay alternator. They advertise a higher max output but almost always put out less amperage at idle than your factory alternator will. Many also have questionable quality rectifiers and diodes.

A few popular and equally high quality brands have been listed. Autotech, JS, Mechman, Singer, & others all make good alts.

I have personally seen an alt fail from every single of the top companies at one time or another... it's just the nature of alternators unfortunately. Basically, I like all of the good ones equally.

I'm not familiar with your vehicle, but depending upon the physical space available, a large-case universal alternator may be an option, but like others have said, you will have to get custom brackets and likely a 1/2" shorter belt.

If all of the reputable companies that make a high output alternator for your vehicle all have a max output of ~200 amps then there is a reason for this. There is no magic alternator - the factory size casing for your car is physically a certain size and you can only fill it with so much flat-wound copper and you can only make a pulley so small before the belt will start to slip. Reputable companies respect the laws of electricity and physics to find a balance between these factors that give you the most usable output.

The best alternators will have a high idle output and reach maximum output at a reasonable engine RPM. Alternator power is useless if you have to be revved up to high RPM to actually achieve it.

Electrical upgrades get expensive rather quick, and don't forget you're going to need to run bigger wire also, as others have mentioned. Many smaller cars come from the factory with 8 gauge wiring. If you're going thru the trouble of doing this, I highly suggest using 0 gauge wire for everything.

Depending on what your costs end up being, it may end up being best to use the ~200 amp alternator combined with some lithium iron phosphate cells. This is a whole different topic, however, and I'm not going to go into it. Maxwell Supercaps are another additional topic in addition to this one.

Personally, I would just buy the best available alternator I can that preferably uses the factory mounting. Buying a new belt is usually cheap if it has a smaller pulley. Then I would try it playing the system however you normally use it while monitoring your voltage, and then you can proceed from there based upon your results.

Either way, an alternator is the best single electrical upgrade you can make.

One last thing, when you upgrade your factory wire you do not need to remove the factory wire. More wire = better. Run the new wire right alongside the old wire. This is also usually easier. Just make sure you get OFC (oxygen free copper) and not CCA (copper clad aluminum).

There are several good brands for wire. Personally, I like using Knu Konceptz. Recoil Audio wire is also true to spec, but they don't have the fancy colors that Knu Konceptz or Sky High and others do, if that matters to you at all.