Ideas on a Custom Box

[Sargeman 10+ year member]

There is no way you can get 4 15's in the PROPER enclosure in that...

I know, I stated that above by saying something like, "There wouldn't be the correct amount of air space for them to work properly."

 

[ace_800 5,000+ posts]

I know, I stated that above by saying something like, "There wouldn't be the correct amount of air space for them to work properly."

OK still you mentioned that you personally know someone that put 6 15's and 10 12's in the same sized trunk as yours. It was wrong and didn't have enought airspace, I can almost guarentee

 

[double 07 10+ year member]

Please upload PICS when you do get it all installed!!!!!!!!!!

 

[dbeez 5,000+ posts]

Wow this is going nowhere fast.

 

[RangerDangerV2 5,000+ posts]

I love when people say that they have been installing for x amount of years but yet they still know nothing about car audio... this thread=lulz

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

Yes, I can fit FOUR 15's in the trunk (I've checked but if you don't want to believe me, that's fine) and I did point out that there wouldn't be enough air space in the trunk. I've also had a "beefy" 15 inn the trunk (Newer Type R with 1000 watts on 4 gauge) and there was plenty of room left to still go and grab groceries. And there would be no wall... I would make sure of it. As far as cost, it would probably be around $2000 - $3000 ($4000 if I wanted all the fancy stuff) if I did all the work myself...

Sweet Jesus you're dense. Let's go down the list here.

1. To fit 4 Type Rs, you would need about 10 cubes net ported. That box would be huge, and you wouldn't be able to fit it. Your trunk volume is only 14 cubic feet, and the trunk isn't a perfect square.

2. A Type R is a pretty entry-level sub. It is in no way a "beefy" 15. Beefy would be something along these lines: Z v.3 Series (which require about 3 cubes each, ported).

3. As I mentioned, you would need $3-4k just for 6kw worth of decent amps that will consistently put out rated power. If you think you can get the whole setup for that much, you must have swap meet garbage in mind that won't give you anywhere near that much real power.

4. If you don't understand this and you've been installing audio for 7 years, I feel very sorry for your customers.

 

[Sargeman 10+ year member]

I personally know the guy with the 12's and I am saying that it is possible to put all those subs in the trunk, but there wouldn't be the correct amount of square/cube feet of what the subwoofer needs. Would it be practical? Probably not, but it is possible.

 

[dbeez 5,000+ posts]

Just put 2 real beefy 12's in there on about 5k and watch peoples shock and aww when its all done right. Your rear seats laydown correct.

 

[Sargeman 10+ year member]

1. I know that the PROPER space for each sub would make a very large box. All I am saying is that is is possible to do so but wouldn't operate efficiently.

2. As I've said earlier, I don't really know any high performance subs and the Type R is pretty good for the price.

3. I know that you may get your equipment at swap meets, but I can find good amps for WAY LESS than what you are saying.

4. There has been nothing here that I haven't understood. If there ever is, I will admit it, but until then, good luck trying to stump me.

 

---------- Post added at 04:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:42 PM ----------

 

They don't fold down yet but I am looking for the folding rear seat setup

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

The Type R shook plenty while I was still breaking it in. It is in a good box but maybe it's a little too small for it but I also had a Soundstream next to it and it hit plenty hard. As far as why I have an R, I don't know too many brands and they make good woofers. Oh, and yes I have been installing for 7 years, my first install car was a 1972 Chevelle with 20+ speakers.

You've been installing for 7 years and you think a Type R is beefy? o.0.... and you don't know of anything better??? Come on man. And no, you can't fit four 15's properly ported. I have no doubt your trunk can hold four woofers in there, but not in a proper ported enclosure. If you had plenty of room left with one, get a second then. I'd recommend an Obsidian Audio 15", or a couple SSA Icons, some Fi BL or SSD, IA Flatlyne or Death Row, TC Sounds LMS-R. All of which would walk all over the Type R's. Each achieving different goals, and have different power handling, but all could take a minimum of 2kW per pair.

I don't know who said 6kW would cost $3-4 grand, cus that's a lie. But it would be around $1,000... certainly no flea market stuff. But it'd be another thousand or 2 in electrical upgrades. Then you'd still have to buy the woofers and enclosure. A Type R is a very entry level sub. Nothing beefy about it. It is a pretty good value though.

 

[RangerDangerV2 5,000+ posts]

1. I know that the PROPER space for each sub would make a very large box. All I am saying is that is is possible to do so but wouldn't operate efficiently.
2. As I've said earlier, I don't really know any high performance subs and the Type R is pretty good for the price.

3. I know that you may get your equipment at swap meets, but I can find good amps for WAY LESS than what you are saying.

4. There has been nothing here that I haven't understood. If there ever is, I will admit it, but until then, good luck trying to stump me.

 

---------- Post added at 04:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:42 PM ----------

 

They don't fold down yet but I am looking for the folding rear seat setup

please enlighten us by explaining t/s parameters if you know so much....

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

I personally know the guy with the 12's and I am saying that it is possible to put all those subs in the trunk, but there wouldn't be the correct amount of square/cube feet of what the subwoofer needs. Would it be practical? Probably not, but it is possible.

Yes, you can physically fit the actual subwoofers in there. But restricting the subs to a box that would fit in your trunk would be stupid, not just impractical. Try it, and you're running the risk of damaging your equipment by not giving the subs enough room.

 

[Sargeman 10+ year member]

Again, I know they wouldn't be properly ported.

**JUST SAYING YOU CAN PUT THAT MANY SUBS IN THE TRUNK**

And the T/S Parameters:

"Thiele/Small" commonly refers to a set of electromechanical parameters that define the specified low frequency performance of a loudspeaker driver. These parameters are published in specification sheets by driver manufacturers so that designers have a guide in selecting off-the-shelf drivers for loudspeaker designs. Many of the parameters are strictly defined only at the resonant frequency, but the approach is generally applicable in the frequency range where the diaphragm motion is largely pistonic, i.e. when the entire cone moves in and out as a unit without cone breakup.

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

1. I know that the PROPER space for each sub would make a very large box. All I am saying is that is is possible to do so but wouldn't operate efficiently.
2. As I've said earlier, I don't really know any high performance subs and the Type R is pretty good for the price.

3. I know that you may get your equipment at swap meets, but I can find good amps for WAY LESS than what you are saying.

4. There has been nothing here that I haven't understood. If there ever is, I will admit it, but until then, good luck trying to stump me.

 

---------- Post added at 04:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:42 PM ----------

 

They don't fold down yet but I am looking for the folding rear seat setup

What amplifiers are you talking about that will give you this much power consistently. Even getting something good used would run about $1500.

And as long as we're talking about my equipment, I'm running high-quality stuff. Not designed to get loud, but produces a very clear, quality sound.

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

Again, I know they wouldn't be properly ported.**JUST SAYING YOU CAN PUT THAT MANY SUBS IN THE TRUNK**

And the T/S Parameters:

"Thiele/Small" commonly refers to a set of electromechanical parameters that define the specified low frequency performance of a loudspeaker driver. These parameters are published in specification sheets by driver manufacturers so that designers have a guide in selecting off-the-shelf drivers for loudspeaker designs. Many of the parameters are strictly defined only at the resonant frequency, but the approach is generally applicable in the frequency range where the diaphragm motion is largely pistonic, i.e. when the entire cone moves in and out as a unit without cone breakup.

Nice Wikipedia copy/paste job