I Think My GP3000 Blew..

Thanks for the info Psycho and audioarsenal, I figured it was just the materials used but wasn't sure if there was something I didn't know about. Looks like I'll be placing an order for two of them once I get this board out and make sure none of the other ones are goners. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Anybody know how to slide the board out? I see there's allen screws on the end caps, do I just unscrew and slide?

 
Yeah the ends should just attach to the case.Don't know which way it will come out but it should just slide out.Just kinda wiggle it out.Kinda watch the underside between the case and the board so you don't damage anything on the bottom of the board pulling it out.

 
Yeah the ends should just attach to the case.Don't know which way it will come out but it should just slide out.Just kinda wiggle it out.Kinda watch the underside between the case and the board so you don't damage anything on the bottom of the board pulling it out.
Alright cool, I'm taking an exam right now but I should be done in about an hour. I'm going to try and slide it out then //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Thanks for all of the help by the way guys. I realize this may not be the ideal thing to do (fixing it myself) but hell, I don't have much else to lose.

 
If all the other parts don't fall out of the amp when you are done taking off the clips you might get lucky and it might work. The part that is in your amp is likely already the PBF part BTW. It says PBF on the end of the part number in the online catalogs etc, but on the part itself, it just says IRFP360LC....

If all of the FETs and rectifiers don't fall out on the floor or break off as you are sliding the board out, then the only other things that may give you trouble is the output driver boards which has two defaced mosfet IC's on it (4 defaced IC's total, 2 of them (the larger ones) are mosfet IC's) and those things are delicate as hell. If you look at them wrong they blow up. So likely there is 1 of those IC's blown. It requires a SMD Rework station to properly handle the job of desoldering and soldering the new IC back on, and there also might be other small components (almost microscopic looking parts) that are bad too.... It's just not a good idea to try to fix it yourself, but I understand, believe me I get calls and emails every week from someone wanting to repair their own amp. It's more to it than just replacing the burned up parts, but people have to find out for themselves.... Wish you luck.

Also, the gate and pulldown resistors need to be checked, as the gate resistors are likely flameproof and could be bad without showing a single sign of being burned up. Sometimes when the mosfet breaks loose from the board, and the mosfet gets a surge from the broken leg connecting and disconnecting over and over, when the mosfet finally goes bad and shorts internally, the amp protect circuit will catch it and it will not blow up the little mosfet driver IC's on the output driver board, but usually the protect circuit doesn't catch it and does not activate until the IC on the driver board is toast. That's usually what triggers the amp into protect, not the fact that a mosfet has shorted out....

Don't be suprized if it works, but also don't be suprized if you get a huge fire inside the amp and lots of loud pops and sizzle sounds when you first turn the amp back on.... you really should have just held onto it until you had the money to send it in for repair, but again, I know, you don't have to explain the $$$ situation to me I hear it several times every week from various customers... They all want me to work for free... LOL

 
Well guys, Chris at db-r told me my amp is too cheap, and likely not worth repairing //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
here's his email
Quote:

Originally Posted by dB-r

Unfortuneately that amp is so cheap (can be had for $450 new last time I checked) that you can almost buy a new one for the repair price... Maxxsonics is killing themselves trying to compete with the SPL Comp crowd... That amp should be sold for no less than $600 in my opinion.

The mosfet that has broken off (from vibration, VERY common problem, with all amps like it, not just this model) is an output mosfet. You likely will need to replace all the output mosfets with new matched parts (so it doesn't blow up after 5 mins of use after you repairing it yourself). and you will need to check all the gate and pulldown resistors and replace the mosfet IC's on the output driver board (which have the part numbers rubbed off BTW, AND it requires a $200+ hot air SMD Rework station to do it right). And even then you likely have some power supply FETs and rectifiers that are broken as well and they will ALL need to be replaced with new matching date code parts. Your costs on the parts is double or triple my cost BTW... because we are a fairly high volume repair shop we buy by the hundred, and get much better deals as a result.

Here's your repair quote:

Rebuild output: edited out in case he doesn't want this public

Rebuild Power supply: edited out in case he doesn't want this public

-OR-

Rebuild power supply and Output: edited out in case he doesn't want this public (best deal)

All repair prices include upgraded soldering on the mosfets that is very tedious and requires very hot soldering irons which are very expensive and the technique is not something we will share with any other person/shop. The upgraded soldering will prevent the problem you have had with your amp from ever happening again. This cannot be provided by the factory because it would require hand soldering which as we all know, labor is one of the most expensive parts of building anything, especially "talented" labor. You have to be talented at soldering and have good equipment to do this repair job, no if's and's or but's about it, don't care what anyone else will tell you, we know, we have the experience to back that up.

Would be glad to repair it for you if you decide to repair it. The design in this amp is good, but the power supply transformers are smaller than other amps that use this same design, therefore this amp has a limited power output as compared to say, a Sundown Audio SAZ-3000D, which is the same exact design and parts as this amp, but uses larger, more capable (especially at low ohm loads) transformers in the power supply. Also the SAZ-3000D has a much larger heatsink and the mosfets are not mounted at 90 degrees to the board with spring clips like this amp (inferior), the SAZ-3000D uses screws and bars and the mosfets are mounted at 180 degrees which makes the legs a lot longer on the mosfets which in turn makes it much more capable of absorbing the vibration of 150+dB SPL comp vehicles.

I have rebuilt one of these before, for Maxxsonics. When I took the spring clips off, ALL of the mosfets and rectifiers fell out of the amp onto the floor... LOL.... I told Maxxsonics about it and stressed the reasons they should not use the 90 degree mounting of the mosfets (spring clips really don't matter, the 90 degrees is the problem). The reason that many manufacturers use this method is becuase it allows them to make the amps much smaller so they are easier to mount in a vehicle.... compacted = sell more amps...

Chris

dB-r Electronics

Wow, that's kinda like listening to yourself talk... I didn't realise he posted this here..... I sure tell it like it is don't I? Some people HATE me for it, but oh well, can't make EVERYONE happy right?

Wanted to add here that I can sell you the mosfet IC's too if you end up needing them, I have about 75 of them In Stock....

 
If all the other parts don't fall out of the amp when you are done taking off the clips you might get lucky and it might work. The part that is in your amp is likely already the PBF part BTW. It says PBF on the end of the part number in the online catalogs etc, but on the part itself, it just says IRFP360LC....
If all of the FETs and rectifiers don't fall out on the floor or break off as you are sliding the board out, then the only other things that may give you trouble is the output driver boards which has two defaced mosfet IC's on it (4 defaced IC's total, 2 of them (the larger ones) are mosfet IC's) and those things are delicate as hell. If you look at them wrong they blow up. So likely there is 1 of those IC's blown. It requires a SMD Rework station to properly handle the job of desoldering and soldering the new IC back on, and there also might be other small components (almost microscopic looking parts) that are bad too.... It's just not a good idea to try to fix it yourself, but I understand, believe me I get calls and emails every week from someone wanting to repair their own amp. It's more to it than just replacing the burned up parts, but people have to find out for themselves.... Wish you luck.

Also, the gate and pulldown resistors need to be checked, as the gate resistors are likely flameproof and could be bad without showing a single sign of being burned up. Sometimes when the mosfet breaks loose from the board, and the mosfet gets a surge from the broken leg connecting and disconnecting over and over, when the mosfet finally goes bad and shorts internally, the amp protect circuit will catch it and it will not blow up the little mosfet driver IC's on the output driver board, but usually the protect circuit doesn't catch it and does not activate until the IC on the driver board is toast. That's usually what triggers the amp into protect, not the fact that a mosfet has shorted out....

Don't be suprized if it works, but also don't be suprized if you get a huge fire inside the amp and lots of loud pops and sizzle sounds when you first turn the amp back on.... you really should have just held onto it until you had the money to send it in for repair, but again, I know, you don't have to explain the $$$ situation to me I hear it several times every week from various customers... They all want me to work for free... LOL


Just a heads up, I posted over on your forum about repairing 2 American Bass amps.. Let me know.

/offtopicness

 
I have nothing useful to add, but thanks Chris for that write-up.. and thanks for the OP for redirecting the information, I learned a little bit. PS, If you get bored, Chris, you can have my blown us amps md3d for the cost of shipping.. But i'm sure you don't have too much spare time.

 
Thanks for posting Chris, and yeah I realize there is more to amp repair then replacing one part. But I figure what the hell, why not? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

If it works it works, if it doesn't I'll see where to go from there.

I'll let you know if I need to purchase any IC's from you, thank you again.

 
Okay guys well I'm trying to get all the clips off now from thje FET's to slide the board out. Can anyone better explain to me how to get these clips off? I mean, I just can't figure out how to do it the right way. If I pry pry pry enough I can get it off,but that breaks the fets off the board. I don't want to break every FET and I have 19 of these clips to go. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
It seems one of the gate resistors (if that's what they are called?) seemed to have gone as well. I see it's a 27ohm resistor, but how do I know whether it's 1/4 watt, 1/2 watt, etc? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

Thanks.

Also I got the board out. finally figured out those **** clips.

 
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