I think i blew my E8s... (pics)

IIRC they are rated at 400 watts RMS. At least that is what I remember him saying in the video tests. The only thing that worries me is the FS in the 40 hz range.
ETA - I knew I saw this somewhere:

SPECIFICATIONS OF D2 Coil (D4 will be similar) :

RE: 3.28 ohms (series)

FS: 41.6 Hz

Qes: 0.513

Qms: 6.606

Qts: 0.476

Le: 2.778 mH

Vas: 3.285 L

BL: 17.138 N/A

Cms: 83.341 um/N

Mms: 175.654 g

Sens: 78.476 dB @ 1w/1m

POWER: 400 RMS

5.25" depth

8.25" overall basket OD (no gasket)

7.25" cut-out diameter

6.25" magnet diameter

We suggest 0.6 - 1 cube ported tuned to 30-40 hz based on your goals and preferences.

Sealed can be utilized but is not optimal for these drivers.
Yeah I havent really looked at them but I was really hoping for more than that. I'm not bashing by any means. Hell some would even say... how do you put it. I hug the sundown nuts //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
None //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
Right before i took them out, they werent playing, but when i pushed on the cone of the one that reads something, it would play and give out this nasty sound like it was bottoming out (it wasnt bottoming out since the volume was really really low)
tinsel lead is broken (most likely right at the coil), and when you push the sub down the 2 broken pieces touch together giving you a ohm reading or in your case, start playing. don't bother trying to fix it, maybe 5 percent of these fixes actually hold(depending where the break is)

 
i've had some leads come un****ed under the dustcap, it def sounds like that b/c of the characteristics when you push on the cone. however when you push on the cone and have a dmm hooked up its going to give you all kinds of funky numbers. can you put one of the leads from the dmm PAST the burn mark towards the cone to see if you get a reading there instead of at both terminals? If you can, then you know the break is poss fixable.

 
No, can you give me a quick tutorial? I really want to fix them if its possible
get a sharp razor blade or the like, and you pretty much are going to have to lay the blade flat against the cone and cut parallel with it, under the dustcap lip. That should get a clean cut, i've accidentally had a little angle on the blade before and cut right through the cone of my old power hx2 15... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif

 
I have ran my e8's over a year now at 350 rms each o-scope tuned/dmm. Never had any issues. They get plenty loud n low.

I feel a lot of these "issues" are user error. I see a lot of "oh I have my gains set a 2/3's ect. Or have a wrong tuned/poorly built boxes, not setting the subsonic correctly. Crappy.amplifiers.

8" subs can only to so much.

 
People throw too much power at them, and they weren't designed for that... Since everyone wanted to throw that much at an 8'', sundown is coming out with a beefier 8

 
if its clean 300 I dont think it would be a problem, but 500w is too much for them even clean 500w. but then again im no sundown guru just saying what i've read

 
Just cut the dustcaps. it is too hard to try and save them. I have two extra dustcaps here. granted they aren't e8 dustcap but it will be easier and less risk cutting the dustcap up then trying to save it and going in at the wrong angle

 
I think there are some e8 recones floating around the forums but I would just wait for the new SA-8s to come out, if you can wait.

 
I dont feel i was throwing too much power at them, 250-300 is too much? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif
yeah if you throw more than 200 to them you should use a little less port area and/ or smaller box. over excursion, its a mutha.

 
I dunno if you guys got them from Mike (woofercooker) Or sundown but it sounds as if the tinsel lead is coming apart where the coil and leads come together under the dustcap.. Seen this happen alot on all kinds of subs. But that is what im guessing is happening...
this is exactly whats happening. the best solution for the problem is to jsut bypass the factory tinsel lead all together.

where the tinsel lead meets the coil itself, get a razorblade and cut a little hole out of the paper part of the cone. you should see some metal exposed. drop a bead of solder into it and stick one end of a 14 ga or bigger wire into the solder. then just cut that wire at like 3" and attach it to where the positve tinsel lead normally attaches. its a really simple fix.

 
Recone time. Its only like 25-30 for a recone kit from david if he still has them. If you dont know how to recone then now is the time to learn. Its not very hard at all. PM me if you need any help if thats the route your going to take. :)

 
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