I have no idea what I am doing... Please Help!!!

[wallacengineeri 10+ year member]

I need two 200-Watt Max (100 RMS) or better 4" 3-Way Speakers as well as two 200-Watt Max (100 RMS) or better 5.25" 3-way Speakers and finally, either a single 12" 800-Watt Max (400 RMS) or better Sub, or Dual 12" 400-Watt Max (200 RMS) or better Subs for this setup (Stock 1985 Nissan Maxima 4-door Sedan):

View attachment 26523576

Can anyone help me find the speakers I am looking for (NOTE: I support Boss Audio Amps but not their speakers as they sound terrible)?

Also: Will this even work correctly (I want to be able to play 100% volume without damaging ANY components)?

Click to read more...

 

[wallacengineeri 10+ year member]

So I've gotten plenty of views but no replies. I'm guessing my idea just isn't possible then?

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

i have some new 4" and 5 1/4" Boston Acoustic componet sets if your wanting high end

 

[wallacengineeri 10+ year member]

Are you sure Boston Acoustics sells a 4" speaker able to handle a constant 100 watts of power (RMS, meaning 200 Watt Max EACH)? I couldn't find any!

 

[IIISLACKERIII 10+ year member]

wait? you want to run a sub off the same channel as your rear mids??

correct me if im wrong guys as Im kinda new to sq audio as well, but if you run the 4 channel in full mode to make the speakers work your sub will play as a big speaker and not as a sub. idk what that amp has as far as settings but on my mbquart you can pick what mod you want to run it in, lpf, full, and hpf. Lpf will give you bass, full is both bass and mids, and hpf is all mids (i believe, some one correct me if I'm wrong as that's my understanding of it)

to make you system work you need to run 3 channels at full and one at lpf, 1 channel to each of the front doors, one channel for the rears and the one lpf channel to the sub.

It might sound OK but i wouldn't run it, you should run the 4 channel as one channel to each door/speaker then pick up a cheap mono amp for the sub. it would sound way better.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Are you sure Boston Acoustics sells a 4" speaker able to handle a constant 100 watts of power (RMS, meaning 200 Watt Max EACH)? I couldn't find any!

maybe not i'll go look on the box ...these are old school quality Bostons

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Its 50rms 100peak on 5 1/4's 40rms and 80 peak on the 4's

 

[wallacengineeri 10+ year member]

I have just given up on finding a system that is right for me. I cannot seem to find what I am looking for, so is there anyway to simply lower the max wattage input going to a speaker? If So, I would rather just limit a nice, high quality 4" speaker to its RMS (So say the 4" speaker is 150 Max Watt, or 75 RMS, I want a device that I could throw on a 400 watt channel to limit the max power to 75 watts in order to preserve the smaller speakers).

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

ok, a few questions that will help us all out.

what amp do you plan on running the mids and highs on?

and what is your budget for said mids and highs?

what amp do you plan on running on the sub/s?

and what is your budget for said sub/s?

P.S. for the love of god stay away from anything that says boss audio on it unless it is one of the killer old school pieces

 

[wallacengineeri 10+ year member]

I would rather not have to run two separate amps. Your talking about money and power I dont have. My Car is so old that when playing music at even a lower volume, the lights dim because the engine's power and the alternators efficiency are both pretty low. I mean I've almost hit 200K in miles on it! In fact, I think I will just call this whole thing off until I can find a new car. I would still like to know if wattage limiters are available and inexpensive, and also if you guys knew where to find a custom Amp Shop (I want to see if it is possible to have an amplifier made with different wattages on different channels)

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

if you want to run a single amp i would say go with a 5 chan, that will give you separate channels for each of your mids and for your sub,

as far as "wattage limiters", this can be done with the gain knob, witch comes free on pretty much any amp on the market. and having an amp custom built (not even sure thats possible) would be stupidly expensive and not worth all of the trouble.

 

[wallacengineeri 10+ year member]

The system I am running now is blown but it works and actually still sounds nice with the exception of the lower volumes.

Here is what it is (I was a noob and had my mechanic install it):

Boss Audio Chaos Wired 600 Watt Max 2 Channel Amplifier (for a total of 150 RMS watts per channel)

2 x BLOWN Absolute Pro 4" 3-way 150 Watt Max/80 Watt RMS Speakers (I fell for the old "oh look it says 300 watts on the box - that must be the individual max power of each speaker!" Boy was I wrong lol), wired to the individual channels

1 x Boss Audio 10 Inch, 600 Watt Max (300 RMS) Subwoofer, Negative wired to left channel (on top of 4" negative wire), and positive to right channel (for level Sub performance)

Believe it or not, it sounds fine just like this ^. You can only hear the fact that the Absolutes are blown when you lower the volume to the point where the sub stops kicking. If you guys would like to take a look and laugh at the noob for yourselves, I can upload pictures in the morning //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

unless those boss amps are old school american made beauties then put them on craigslist and take the first offer your given.

once that is done you can start getting nice equipment for this or your new car.

also that amp should not be enough to cause any voltage drop, unless you have it running at a low imp, or it has a very poor ground.

 

[wallacengineeri 10+ year member]

Oh, also I was wondering about Boss Audios newer speakers and was wondering what you guys thought of them. Now I know a lot of people don't like Boss Audio, and I found out the hard way that their older series ****. But now I am seeing that they have done alright with their newer Onyx and Phantom Speakers series. I mean look at their sensitivity, build quality, ohms, and power handling. Some of their newer speakers seem to rival even these big names I keep seeing out there like Kenwood, Jensen, Alpine, or Kicker. Now their Subs may not match up to these bigger companies (2000 Watt versus 5000+ Watt that I've seen), but look specifically at their full range speakers and Amplifiers (Be SURE to keep your eyes ONLY on the newer models towards the top of the page), they even have class D rated amps and 6x9 speakers capable of 1000 + watts (500 RMS), available in all 3 configurations (2-Way - 4-Way), who's frequency response, impedance, and sensitivity all either match or are within 1 or two point vales of the bigger companies, and are widely available and inexpensive. I know they aren't the best, but I think they have gotten better.

 

[wallacengineeri 10+ year member]

And the voltage drop like I said is just because the car is too old to handle 600 Watts of power