I don't understand, I am lacking midbass - pictures inside

Perhaps the mids just don't play down into the midbass range very well //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif Sealing the large holes in the doors will improve midbass. Fortifying the baffle and decoupling the driver from the door will aid in improving output and the focus of said midbass. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Hmmmmmm....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I am not ignoring what you guys are saying at all!

The mass loading the driver, wouldnt that disrupt accuracy since there is more mass to move, and also at the same time increase heat in the driver?

The baffle I understand completely, and it really isnt directly on the door but I get the point. That I can/will try. Do most of you just make a baffle, and then bondo it completely around so it is sealed to the door or what?

 
I am not ignoring what you guys are saying at all! The mass loading the driver, wouldnt that disrupt accuracy since there is more mass to move, and also at the same time increase heat in the driver?

The baffle I understand completely, and it really isnt directly on the door but I get the point. That I can/will try. Do most of you just make a baffle, and then bondo it completely around so it is sealed to the door or what?
Modeling clay.

 
I don't think he means the driver itsself , mass load the baffle the driver is on. light weight vibrating baffles = lost energy creating a loss of output //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
It is though, it has Dynamat Xtreme..... I think I will just jigsaw some MDF rings, and do that for now. It wont really lower any distortion I am getting at high volumes though, I guess I am screwed for that.

 
dynamat is over priced.

you would have been better off with second skin, raamat, or sounddeadenershowdown.

better in quality and price.

Make sure your mids are in phase...I think this is the problem.

Are you sure you connected the + and - wires correctly? If you reverse them, and they're louder, then obviously your speakers were out of phase.

Your sub sounds sloppy because of the enclosure, not the sub.

don't worry too much about sealing your door, i doubt thats the real problem. Just make sure there are no huge holes leading to the cabin.

 
dynamat is over priced.
you would have been better off with second skin, raamat, or sounddeadenershowdown.

better in quality and price.

Make sure your mids are in phase...I think this is the problem.

Are you sure you connected the + and - wires correctly? If you reverse them, and they're louder, then obviously your speakers were out of phase.

Your sub sounds sloppy because of the enclosure, not the sub.

don't worry too much about sealing your door, i doubt thats the real problem. Just make sure there are no huge holes leading to the cabin.
You know I honestly didn't think about phase. I'm so used to that being the first thing I do after installation , that I take phase for granted. That's a good point really. OP have you tried switching the wire on one of your mids to see if the midbass improves? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
In all complete honesty...I think that its your amplifier, I had a 40 dollar old alphasonic powering all 4 door speakers no dynamat n the thing got loud and overall stayed decently clear (no tweets). Newho If you are truly seeing 150 watts a side its probally as dirty power as ethopian water. (No Offense lol) Id see what another amp does even to borrow one from a friend just to check. and of course all the sealing and mdf rings will always help. but you said you hear hissing n thats not something deadning is gonna clean up.

 
The mass loading the driver, wouldnt that disrupt accuracy since there is more mass to move, and also at the same time increase heat in the driver?
No. The added mass will lower your frequency response and Q factor. You will also lose sensitivity as a trade off.

 
Yes they are the correct phase. I checked when I re mounted tweeters (switched phases on tweets seperate also) a couple days ago. Maybe I am just being overly critical. The only way to truly know is to get someone who knows SQ well in my area to listen and give me some critique. Besides that I guess I am at a loss.

What is also funny is I bought 2 15 SRx's and only used one, so my other new one has been collecting dust for a year. My amp doesn't do 1 ohm so I can only run one. Two sealed should be louder and cleaner than my one ported right? I mean they are only rated for 300 RMS and I have thrown 600 at it for a year without any issues.

 
I had the same problem with my Infinity's Reference series both 5.5 and 6x8's before I upgraded them to JBL GTi series..

If you have the amp on high pass mode and is set down to 70 to 80 which btw is too low for that small of speakers really.. but it sounds like the crossover sux in that amp..

Here is a tip.. put the crossover in full mode, you should then hear everything that is being passed to it from the head unit.. might sound completely crappy.. and distorted but at least youll know.. if you get the mid and bass on full mode, you know the freq is not really letting all the way down to 80 adjust it down more if you can.. but i say you might want to try a different better quality amp.. but no matter rather or not you need to seal up your door, relistically you should still hear the base from teh speakers.. turn off your sub and listen to the speakers see if you can hear the bass.. if you can with the xover set then it might be that.. but if you still dont hear anything from them then its the xfer in the amp..

even with a non-mounted sub woofer for example you still still hear the bass and see the cone move not very loud but you can hear it from the speaker.. same goes for all speakers.. determine rather they are getting the signal first then move one step at a time..

 
Oh they are getting bass, and I am using the H/U 24db crossover instead, I have the amp on through mode (I have used both). I do hear the bass I think I was being overly dramatic. I will make a video of just the fronts playing. It just isn't that loud to me, considering a stock deck puts out maybe 10w rms and I am giving my front stage 300 total.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

1 2 3 4 I declare a thumb war, 5 6 7 8 with this hand I mahsturbate.
5
975
Got it , LOC black wire actually needed to be grounded . Every video I watched said said it doesn’t and that’s just to reduce noise but apparently...
12
2K
These would be my options for a single DVC4 sub wired to 2 ohms.If you decide to run another sub later of the same as a pair for a 1 ohm load, I...
1
2K
Coulda already had his answers (4) My interior dome lights are dimming with bass | DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum
20
3K

About this thread

way2sl0

10+ year member
Senior VIP Member
Thread starter
way2sl0
Joined
Location
Ontario, Canada
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
60
Views
8,126
Last reply date
Last reply from
way2sl0
20240604_170857.jpg

metalheadjoe

    Jun 5, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
Screenshot_20240605_200209_Adobe Acrobat.jpg

Dylan27

    Jun 5, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top