HT box deisgns.

[goose5741 10+ year member]

Don't know whether to put this here or in home theater but since its still a box i'm thinking it can fit here too.

I have dayton titanic mkIII 12 inch, gonna power with a 500w bash plate amp. Wanna go ported, tune nice and low. Would prefer a slot port to a tube port simply cause i'm more familar building that way. Need to keep the box fairly small, going to a dorm room. Wondering if anyone can draw me up some plans/how much that would cost....

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[Beat_Dominator 5,000+ posts]

If you want small, a sealed or even a passive radiator box are your best bets.

 

[goose5741 10+ year member]

it doesn't have to be miniture just not huge....but whats passive radiator...never heard of it...i'll search it i guess.

 

[goose5741 10+ year member]

so spent 5 minutes on google and learned a little about passive radiators and i think i'll pass lol...too complicated/have to buy more parts...+ it says the radiator has to be 1.5 to 2x the size of the actual driver...so i'd have to make a bigger box prolly for that... :/

 

[rpfuror 10+ year member]

Bboth the slot ported and round ported box are going to be quite large due to low tuning/port lenght if design rigth, even with low net volume. What are you trying to target for tuning?

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

How large is the room, what size is it, and will it be used mainly for music or movies? HT box design has much more to it than car audio designs.

 

[Beat_Dominator 5,000+ posts]

How large is the room, what size is it, and will it be used mainly for music or movies? HT box design has much more to it than car audio designs.

Generally, if the room is smaller than a large high school class room, and you use a long-throw (xmax > 16mm) driver 12" or bigger, sealed with ample power would realistically be enough for most people in a system used more for movies than music. (JLs HT subs with the W7 drivers are all sealed I believe.

If you want to have a more flexible sub, ported low around 27hz, with proper eq, will be able to fit in a huge variety of room sizes and fit musical as well as cinema needs.

The real issue is size, and if you want to tune realy low, you need long ports, add that to the 1.5-3.0 cubic feet of volume in the box you'd need for a lot of 12s and you end up with boxes bigger than a mini fridge pretty easily.

You can always tune higher in the mid 30s and still get faveorable output though, so that might be an option for you.

 

[jdawg 5,000+ posts]

Did you even take the time to look at the enclosures that Dayton recomends?

 

[goose5741 10+ year member]

Did you even take the time to look at the enclosures that Dayton recomends?

Do you mean prefab ones???? Because no i'm not buying a pre fab one.

But if you meant the plans they provide then yes i did, but it said the port would have to be put in at and angle and it didn't have details...so i'm not sure how i'd go about that......

Basically its gonna be prolly around a 50-50 music, HT split. The box cannot be the size of a mini fridge lol. Its gonna be in prolly a 14x20 room for now, but its actual purose is to go to college with me and it will be in my dorm...which i know is gonna be cramped for room as it is.

 

[goose5741 10+ year member]

I guess since its goin to a dorm i might as well seal it...small room, so plenty of sound, and i can always build a new box whenever i get more room/if it isn't loud enough....

If i'm going sealed the only question i really have is which direction i should have the sub fire...i always see HT setups with downfiring subs...is there any significant advantage to this????

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

Generally, if the room is smaller than a large high school class room, and you use a long-throw (xmax > 16mm) driver 12" or bigger, sealed with ample power would realistically be enough for most people in a system used more for movies than music. (JLs HT subs with the W7 drivers are all sealed I believe.
If you want to have a more flexible sub, ported low around 27hz, with proper eq, will be able to fit in a huge variety of room sizes and fit musical as well as cinema needs.

The real issue is size, and if you want to tune realy low, you need long ports, add that to the 1.5-3.0 cubic feet of volume in the box you'd need for a lot of 12s and you end up with boxes bigger than a mini fridge pretty easily.

You can always tune higher in the mid 30s and still get faveorable output though, so that might be an option for you.

This is quite true.

However, seeing as you said that it's a dorm room, either a sealed front firing enclosure or a passive radiator corner enclosure would work well as well (cone on one side, PR on side adjacent).

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

Oh, and about the downfiring. There's only two real reasons to downfire. The first is the more obvious one: acoustics. Many people interested in decor do not want to see a large grimey speaker cone pointed at them moving like a lap dancer. That's easy to see, but not really important. The REAL reason to downfire is to gain output. You can "load" the output if you fire the speaker into solid surfaces which can direct the sound back into the room. Ideally, you want to fire into a corner, but placing a downfiring speaker cabinet on a solid surface can also increase output.