How would a 12" 200w sub compare to a 10" 400w sub?

[bunnerrabbit 10+ year member]

I know this is kinda generic and there are a ton of variables but how would a 12" 200w sub compare to a 10" 400w sub? Im talking about Audio Technix but just looking for general answers. That is the rated RMS for each given speaker so the 10" is also a better line of sub. Sealed box

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[bunnerrabbit 10+ year member]

Compared at RMS wattage so 10" 400w 12 with 200w

 

[Chriszle 10+ year member]

Theoretically, the 10 should have a slight edge, but realistically they would probably perform very similarly.

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

They should perform similarly, like stated above, I believe the 10 would have a little edge too, but theoretically thats how it goes. Realistically it depends on enough factors that it could easily go either way depending on the equipment/vehicle/enclosure.

 

[bunnerrabbit 10+ year member]

So since I am out of the loop, dont know anyone with a sub in there car and I haven't in a few years I prob would not notice much difference? Need to go make some measurements I don't have a ton of room

 

[bunnerrabbit 10+ year member]

It will be sealed under rear seat of 98 k1500. Not to concerned about spl either if that matters. Just looking for some decent sound.

 

[bunnerrabbit 10+ year member]

trucks old used to have 4 8" and all infinity speakers all amped. well 10 years later I am down to one door speaker. time for a upgrade

 

[denim 5,000+ posts]

The RMS wattage rating has nothing to do with output or performance.

 

[RSDXzec 10+ year member]

The RMS wattage rating has nothing to do with output or performance.

how so? Most normal people (based on his join date and question I'd say he fits in this category) run their subs at RMS power so double power in an ideal world would mean ~3dB

Now if you're referring to car audio enthusiasts who push their gear past RMS then I get where you're coming from. Then it's all down the box and how much power the box will allow them to throw at it.

 

[denim 5,000+ posts]

how so? Most normal people (based on his join date and question I'd say he fits in this category) run their subs at RMS power so double power in an ideal world would mean ~3dBNow if you're referring to car audio enthusiasts who push their gear past RMS then I get where you're coming from. Then it's all down the box and how much power the box will allow them to throw at it.

No, I am saying the ratting placed on a sub woofer by the manufacturer has zero bearing on the output or performance. It is only a thermal power handling ratting. I could easily go back and change our SSA Gcon 1000 watts rms, does not mean it is going to be any louder or change the sound. People so often blindly focus on matching power of the amplifier ratting and power ratting of the speaker. Music is dynamic and the amplifier is never putting out full power, let alone so many other factors like amplifier and speaker efficiency, power compression, gain setting, voltage drop, impedance rise etc. etc. that all effects the power the speaker is actually seeing.

 

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

more cone area = more bass, at least have potential to have more bass. if you can fit dual 8's, IMO will be louder than 1 12"

 

[bunnerrabbit 10+ year member]

2 8" is definitely a consideration. The 8"s could be forward facing while the 10 or 12 will have to be facing down or up toward seat.

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

No, I am saying the ratting placed on a sub woofer by the manufacturer has zero bearing on the output or performance. It is only a thermal power handling ratting. I could easily go back and change our SSA Gcon 1000 watts rms, does not mean it is going to be any louder or change the sound. People so often blindly focus on matching power of the amplifier ratting and power ratting of the speaker. Music is dynamic and the amplifier is never putting out full power, let alone so many other factors like amplifier and speaker efficiency, power compression, gain setting, voltage drop, impedance rise etc. etc. that all effects the power the speaker is actually seeing.

The OP has pointed out he's aware there are many factors, so what he is looking for is a theoretical answer. That's what we've been advising for. In a theoretical world where none of the important factors matter, and you just look at the power you will give 2 subs of 2 different sizes what would the performance be. I think I outlined in my post that it easily could go either way depending on all the factors, but theoretically they would be about the same. This is taken from the fact that it takes approx 2x the power to up db level by 3, and if you double cone area db level can increase by around 6db. Since the 12 is not double the cone area, more like 1.5ish the theoretical answer is that they will perform similarly.

You don't have to get into how everyone in the world is wrong for trying to match amp and sub ratings....just my .02

Besides theorizing is a big part of car audio. Many people are unequiped to try to scientifically deduce how their system will perform. Many of us go off generalizations and other factoids to try to determine a setup.

 

[denim 5,000+ posts]

The OP has pointed out he's aware there are many factors, so what he is looking for is a theoretical answer. That's what we've been advising for. In a theoretical world where none of the important factors matter, and you just look at the power you will give 2 subs of 2 different sizes what would the performance be. I think I outlined in my post that it easily could go either way depending on all the factors, but theoretically they would be about the same. This is taken from the fact that it takes approx 2x the power to up db level by 3, and if you double cone area db level can increase by around 6db. Since the 12 is not double the cone area, more like 1.5ish the theoretical answer is that they will perform similarly.
You don't have to get into how everyone in the world is wrong for trying to match amp and sub ratings....just my .02

Besides theorizing is a big part of car audio. Many people are unequiped to try to scientifically deduce how their system will perform. Many of us go off generalizations and other factoids to try to determine a setup.

I'm fully aware, but why settle for just assumptions when some effort can be put in for the best choice for his needs?

 

As for matching ratings, it should be addressed to help others who don't know. If people are unequipped, we can help them to become or at least assist in basic understanding, that is kind of the whole point of having a car audio forum, to learn from and share with others.

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

I'm fully aware, but why settle for just assumptions when some effort can be put in for the best choice for his needs?  

As for matching ratings, it should be addressed to help others who don't know. If people are unequipped, we can help them to become or at least assist in basic understanding, that is kind of the whole point of having a car audio forum, to learn from and share with others.

Well I completely agree with you there.

I do match my ratings, or rather i try to match my gain to be giving my speakers/subs their rated power. I don't have an oscope, so I go by the ratings of the manufacturer for a few reasons. One is to make sure I don't give them power they can't handle for absolute sure. Two is for warranted work. Three...I had something for three but I forgot lol. Is there some other way I should be setting my gains if not by the manufacturer's specs?

I would go by ear, but I don't trust my ear enough.