How to make alternator put out 14.8 volts?

First off there are a lot of people who cant read posting about an alternator that’s made to do 14.4 and going DUH I don’t understand why its not doing 14.8 then you got people using $15 walmart DMMs like the guy that did the video and they are claiming all kinds of crazy numbers which just adds to all the STUPID.

This thread needs its own section on the forum for dumbest thread of the year.

 
If you actually read why he wants this its because he doesn't want his voltage drop and thinks that raising the voltage will cure the problem which it won't. But what he really needs if you have listened to the people that have actually been trying to help him have been finish the big 3 and get a proper ground. Then see if this solves his problem.

 
If you actually read why he wants this its because he doesn't want his voltage drop and thinks that raising the voltage will cure the problem which it won't. But what he really needs if you have listened to the people that have actually been trying to help him have been finish the big 3 and get a proper ground. Then see if this solves his problem.
If you had a clue about anything you would see that I have posted in this thread from the beginning. So I have read it and I have been the one suggesting doing the right things like the big three first. Why don’t you get some sort of help?

 
Just watched your video,
Your ground for you battery is not a good ground.

Not sure if your car is full frame or unibody, but reguardless Ground it to the frame rail.

Strut tower isnt the thickest metal and your 8 guage OE ground wire is pretty much useless.

Also It would be an even better idea (if you cant find a good ground for your amp in the trunk) to run a 0 gauge wire from the battery to the rear for the amps to ground.

I would guess thats your problem^, is your amplifier ground. Previously on my mojo 4000 it wouldnt even power on with a frame ground. I had to run a wire the whole way.
Thanks for actually watching and providing me with some information..

So I should basically add a ground for the battery?

I'll be getting the video up tomorrow to show the voltage drops.

 
A power or ground connection anywhere in the system can easily add enough resistance that 100 amps will create a drop the op is experiencing. That is why I suggested it. I was having a voltage drop issue roughly a year after I installed my alt, turns out the bolt holding the power wire on came a little loose. Took 5 minutes with a dmm to see the problem.
Just watched your video,
Your ground for you battery is not a good ground.

Not sure if your car is full frame or unibody, but reguardless Ground it to the frame rail.

Strut tower isnt the thickest metal and your 8 guage OE ground wire is pretty much useless.

Also It would be an even better idea (if you cant find a good ground for your amp in the trunk) to run a 0 gauge wire from the battery to the rear for the amps to ground.

I would guess thats your problem^, is your amplifier ground. Previously on my mojo 4000 it wouldnt even power on with a frame ground. I had to run a wire the whole way.

Alright guys im about to post up the video. In this video all my car accessories are on, I have my engine at 2k RPM an my system on max. (1600rms)

My voltage drops to about 13.7 and with a 320 amp alt I feel it shouldn't drop that low at all,. What could be the problem?

Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_F_El-Zd98

Sorry about a portion of it being upside down. Stupid phone -_-

 
Alright guys im about to post up the video. In this video all my car accessories are on, I have my engine at 2k RPM an my system on max. (1600rms)My voltage drops to about 13.7 and with a 320 amp alt I feel it shouldn't drop that low at all,. What could be the problem?

Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_F_El-Zd98

Sorry about a portion of it being upside down. Stupid phone -_-
How much did you pay for that DMM? What does the manual say about accuracy being +/- x.xx volts? Do your lights dim? And it doesn't drop to *about* 13.7 more like 13.85 as an average, I'd still guess you need to take a good look at your grounding. And as I read in the thread you haven't finished the big 3? You should have 0 gauge OFC wire from alternator to battery and 0 gauge ground from battery to engine block to chassis, do you have that?

 
How much did you pay for that DMM? What does the manual say about accuracy being +/- x.xx volts? Do your lights dim? And it doesn't drop to *about* 13.7 more like 13.85 as an average, I'd still guess you need to take a good look at your grounding. And as I read in the thread you haven't finished the big 3? You should have 0 gauge OFC wire from alternator to battery and 0 gauge ground from battery to engine block to chassis, do you have that?
The DMM was 20 bucks. And I have the big three. I have a 0 gauge OFC welding wire running from the alt to the battery. Then I have a partial copper wire running from the battery to the strut tower and a OFC 4-8 gauge OFC stock ground to frame.

So basically I have it.

I posted a video early on in the thread giving an in depth layout of my system.

 
Anybody have any answers?Make sure to watch the videos of my system above^
Pretty sure you've gotten all the 'answers' you're going to get. The issue has been mentioned in this thread atleast once, I'm sure of it. So either you've wired everything perfectly, haven't messed up at all and your alternator is defective or more likely something is messed up in your setup, none of us are there to look at it and a thousand videos isn't going to solve anything. I'd suggest reading other threads about HO output alternators, I had an issue recently and I could not figure it out for the life of me so I went back through everything I've read and found the problem, it was something so simple that I overlooked I could have punched myself. lol.

Fyi, I'm doing 1420 wrms on my stock 105 amp alternator with no light dimming and once in a great while I'll hit 13.7 volts at idle, but at 2k rpm I'm at around 14.2. So either your wiring needs some going over, or the alternator is defective. Best of luck!

 
Pretty sure you've gotten all the 'answers' you're going to get. The issue has been mentioned in this thread atleast once, I'm sure of it. So either you've wired everything perfectly, haven't messed up at all and your alternator is defective or more likely something is messed up in your setup, none of us are there to look at it and a thousand videos isn't going to solve anything. I'd suggest reading other threads about HO output alternators, I had an issue recently and I could not figure it out for the life of me so I went back through everything I've read and found the problem, it was something so simple that I overlooked I could have punched myself. lol.
Fyi, I'm doing 1420 wrms on my stock 105 amp alternator with no light dimming and once in a great while I'll hit 13.7 volts at idle, but at 2k rpm I'm at around 14.2. So either your wiring needs some going over, or the alternator is defective. Best of luck!
So you're thinking its my ground wiring? Like I said at 2k rpm it shouldn't be dropping at all. If its not my ground is there anyway I can test the amperage coming out of the alternator?

 
Does an alternator make power all the time? No it only makes power when there is a demand.

Is there a lag when the alternator has to ramp up? Yes and they are made that way for a reason.

Would that lag explain why my voltage drops a few tenths of a volt now and then? Yes

Does it make any difference how big my alternator is? Not at all you will still have lead lag that can be measured even on a $20 Wal-Mart meter.

Will the OP understand this?

 
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