How to install sound deadener on doors *Pics*

porksoda
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Veteran
Ok guys I sound deadened my doors today and I want to let everyone know how easy it is.

Ok first you will need to order some sounddeadening material.

I used eDead V1SE2

Link:http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_24&products_id=52

I ordered 120 Sq ft of it cause i am gonna do my whole cab soon.

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Next you will need

1.Cloth *Microfiber if possible*

2.Somekind of degreaser *I like Greased Lightning BLAST*

3.Sissors

4.Screw Driver

5.Roller *You can buy one at Lowes for cheap*

6.A sunny day to heat up the deadener //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

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The Victim!!!

1998 Dodge Dakota Sport!

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I am in the process of painting my truck at school. I shaved my emblems off and antenna. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Step 1:

First you will remove the Door Panel, by removing the 4 screws on the door panel and pusing up. I circled

the screws in Green:

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You will also need to take the harness off the window switches *if you have power locks and windows*

And the rod that is connected to the door handle.

After removing your door should look something like this:

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Stock sound deadener lol:

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Step 2:

You will want to clean up all the dust and crap off the door panel with the microfiber rag and degreaser

before you lay down the sound deadener:

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Step 3:

Next you will cut pieces of sound deadener to fit on the inside of the door panel. Dont be scared

to cut them to small or to big. If you make it to big just fold the left over deadener on another

area on the door. And if too small you can always cut another piece and lay it on it.

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Now you will pull off the wax paper that is covering the sticky sound deadener:

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Now make sure the area your going to put the deadener is clean before putting the deadener on.

And lay the deadener on the inner side of the door panel.

Once you get the deadener on the door panel try to push you hand on it to get all the air bubbles out.

Now get the Roller and roll it on top of the deadener to ensure that it is stuck on the metal good.

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Now on the creases there will be areas that the deadener will not reach so you will want to used the

sissors to just make a light cut into the top layer of deadener so it will be able to let it flex over

the lower part.

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After cutting it lightly just push your fingers against it and it will stick good.

After doing the whole inside with the steps above it should look something like this:

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Step 4:

Now you will want to put a layer on the outside of the door panel. All the holes on the door panel

are just access holes. So if you cover up the holes it really doesnt matter. And if you cover up the

wires that are there it really wont matter also.

So First you will want to put deadener over all the solid metal parts and then work your way to the

the open parts:

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Do this over the whole door until you get the whole thing cover.*make sure not to cover up the

holes to screw in the door panel and the holes to hold the door panel on*

Your finished product should look like this:

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door panel on *you will never know it was there*:

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I hope this helps everyone out on doing this!

This will help keep road noise down when driving and if you are into Audio like it will help out on

the sound quality!

This is the first time i did this. I have read multiple theads about people doing it so i just decieded to make my own write-up! thanks for looking!

 
Nice tutorial. You could always cover up the large holes with something a bit more solid, like 1/4" MDF or aluminum //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Looks good. I have a 97 Dakota that I will be doing in the near future. I'm gonna do a couple layers on the doors, floor and back wall of the ex-cab. Did you put any on the backside of the door frame?

 
I prefer Brake Cleaner as it dries instantly and leave no residue and use my hands vs a roller. Also I prefer to cover large holes with sheetmetal first and do the backside of the door panel.

Nice pics, should help some noobies out...

 
Looks good. I have a 97 Dakota that I will be doing in the near future. I'm gonna do a couple layers on the doors, floor and back wall of the ex-cab. Did you put any on the backside of the door frame?
No i didnt man. I am gonna do the extended cab on my dakota soon.

 
bro great explanation.by the way.... the link you post it up says regular price $1.60 so how many of those should i need to order to make up for 120 sq ft.????????
I believe its $1.60 a sq ft. You just need to type in how many sq ft you want and click add to cart. It should add it up for you.

Here is how it looked when i got it:

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Not too bad.

For about $28 more, I would have chosen RAAMmat over eDuh, but that's just me (or is it? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif ).

120 sq ft eDead V1SE2 = $213.95 shipped

125 sq ft RAAMmat BXT = $242.09 shipped

 
Not too bad.
For about $28 more, I would have chosen RAAMmat over eDuh, but that's just me (or is it? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif ).

120 sq ft eDead V1SE2 = $213.95 shipped

125 sq ft RAAMmat BXT = $242.09 shipped
Well i got mine cheaper because i am apart of LS1tech.com and if you are a member there you get it for $1.00 a sq ft so i bought it with the code i got. It came out pretty cheap when i bought it.

 
Well i got mine cheaper because i am apart of LS1tech.com and if you are a member there you get it for $1.00 a sq ft so i bought it with the code i got. It came out pretty cheap when i bought it.
Could be a decent deal, then. Still not sure about eDead, though.

 
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