How to compare subs to get the skinny on best bang for buck.

Not really, unfortunately.If you are looking for sound quality suggestions id go to diyma and ask on that forum.

Most the people here are spl guys with a few exceptions. Over there it's the opposite.

With that being said I really enjoyed the sound of my SSA subs. I wish I still had them, sounded great it everything I put them in.
Yeah there's definitely 2 species of audio hobbiests . A lot of the guys in here think I'm a dummy for spending so much on JL subs and I feel they're nuts for putting all that work to sounds that are almost unbearable to listen too at such loud extremes , lol but that's cause a lot of these guys compete or working on being on that level . All in all theirs a wow factor on both sides of each spectrum. I'm too old for super loud , lol.

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No worries man. I like the input.
Just wrote down all the specs for JL subs to figure out the cheapest closes matching one to the W7. And trying to ask my self is it really worth the extra cash for 2 db.

The 12W0 only puts out 110 spl, right at half the sound.
That "sensitivity" spec is calculated not measured and notice they never specify at what frequency? The only time sensitivity spec is worthwhile is with full range home theater or PA type applications. It's generally worthless and can easily be fudged.

If you like JL, why are you asking us? W6 and W7 both sound good and will perform as advertised.

If you're looking for other options, consider the JBL WGTI MK II, or TC Sounds Axis for 1000W subs that can sound really nice. Also the higher end Dayton drivers are well regarded and won't break the bank.

 
Lol that calculator is nothing to trust... I typed in my specs from my fi ssd and its way way louder than that... Don't even take that bs calculator into consideration...

e107bdf93f16aad2aabb27b4afbb0c6e.jpg


Fi audio wouldn't hurt for you to look into... The ssd and q both have great sound quality...

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You can't calculate projected SPL because you are missing MANY variables calculators will not have fields for because it's too complicated to measure.

That's why many people own SPL Meters so you can use the device to help get you louder and/or alter the response curve by physically seeing what is going on rather than making up a bunch of numbers.

If you like to do calculations, go purchase LEAP for several grand and several grand worth of hardware to measure the variables.

If you like to save money and still learn how things change when you are in control of it, get an SPL meter.

 
garbage.

This is the industry standard. http://www.termpro.com/storefront/termlab.asp Along with spl labs, and SSA's meter.

You only measure decibels after having the sub inside the enclosure and how it works with your cabin gain. Only way you can moderately gauge how loud things will get is though an enclosure design software using ALL of the subwoofer's electromechanical parameters.

GOOGLE UP WINISD PRO ITS FREE.

here's a basic tutorial


 
I loled when I read "thunderous"

Louder is better if you can keep decent bandwidth and reasonably flat response. Lots of it is enclosure specs, honestly.

You could get cheaper gear and be noticeably louder than the JLs without sacrificing sound quality.

I'm not saying the JL's won't sound good, but they're price tag is outrageous. If you want to spend that kind of money, find a DD brick and mortar dealer

I'd bet a 3500 series would do you well

 
Yeah i have a few I downloaded just haven't used them
Its junk. ALL junk. Mainly because you need a proper external microphone thats made for bass testing to even achieve any form of accurate results. Your phone mic is to pick up voices, not subsonic frequencies. Thats why none of the phone apps on the market will work , not even the expensive paid ones(people get fked over with) unless its this one where you have the whole kit

APM-1 SPL Meter - SSA STORE

I loled when I read "thunderous"
Same. He'll never be loud.

 
There is nothing wrong with a w7, I actually like them a lot. Great topology behind. Yes they are expensive but the R&D that went into that driver is great. Not just off the shelf type of stuff a lot of companies are putting out. I think for a driver that needs minimal power it's amazing. Would I buy one? Nope, but if you aren't looking to do a butt load of electrical upgrades lose a ton of space then it would be worth it. Plus the drivers can be had for a lot less than retail. Just need to know where to go.

 
if using an app on your phone, make sure you purchase the hardware for it.

Using your phone's mic.... it's not designed and incapable of measuring the decibel range for car audio use.

 
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