How to achieve 11 or 12 channels of DSP?

Here's another suggestion...
Generally... you want to use as few drivers as you can to achieve the bandwidth you want. See about getting bigger and/or better drivers for your fronts. That will eliminate 2 channels. Something along the lines of 8" midbass and a 3" or 4" wideband like the ScanSpeak 10F or HAT L4.

Then if the rears are just for passengers and you will have a "party in the car" setting... just use a component set for back there. That will eliminate another 2 channels. Bingo bango... you don't need a whole rack of processing. Having (4) channels of processing just for tweeters is a little bananas, imo.
The dash midranges are HAT Legatia 3.7", the front and rear door midbass are HAT Imagine 6.5s, and the front tweeter pods are Alpine Dlx-f30ts (boughtnot yet installed). C-Pillar tweeters are from one of the Imagine sets ( the tweeters can be unscrewed and removed from the Imagine woofers).

The Legatias are certainly great midbands, but I feel they are lacking a certain tight piercing quality that the direct firing tweeter pods (bought but not yet installed) will provide. It could be more an issue of speaker placement I realize, as the Legatias are firing into the angled windshield and even with the top end cranked on the eq, they feel muffled a tad, not like the direct facing drivers I've heard. If the pods don't fix the issue, well at least I tried //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif If they are truly no help at all, then I could always revert back to a 2 -way up front and sell the pods.

As for the bass - it's not larger 8inch drivers up front I need, midbass is already fine. The 6.5's kick ***, but I want the ability to pull the soundstage farther back when desired, even if its not as acoustically accurate. Thus the rear 6.5s in the doors. I'm aware a lot of SQL peeps consider it a sin, but it's my car and my money, so screw it. I have a classic "proper" setup right now though. As you know, with an active DSP you can explore lots of options and flavors of tuning with no down-time and hassling with physical crossover settings.

Anyway.. since I need to upgrade the DSP for power purposes, I figured I might as well explore other options that give me even more control of the system on the fly. I'm no pro tuner or SQL competitor or anything by a long shot, just a guy that appreciate being able to fiddle and tinker with his car gear.

But yea I'm not looking to over complicate **** for no reason. Which is why an off the shelf DSP with more channels was my first choice. Not too sure about messing with multiple units. I'm sure I can make do with 10 if you twist my arm //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Thx for the all the feedback guys //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
How is the DSP that is built into the Zapco amps? Would a few of those help? I all for the wideband answer though. After getting some CDT widebands I'm sold on them. The 010-WD is the one for me

 
Thread update: I decided to go with the Helix Pro. Not ideal, but it seemed too much trouble for no real payoff to mess with two DSPs.

Have the unit sitting in my living room, just waiting on the new remote control to arrive so they can be installed.

 
Thread update: I decided to go with the Helix Pro. Not ideal, but it seemed too much trouble for no real payoff to mess with two DSPs.
Have the unit sitting in my living room, just waiting on the new remote control to arrive so they can be installed.
where in cali are you? i'd love to hear the setup once its finally tuned.

 
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