How much do you think this sub can actually take ???

I've designed a few PR boxes over time. PR's have some huge advantages. I think even PR's may be under-utilized in certain situations. Like PR's are great if the box position inside of the cabin is poor. PR's will be loud, but like sealed, they will limit subwoofer excursion. So PR's, to me, are almost like a ported-sealed hyrbid. You can run PR's and that'll save your sub from bottoming out, more than likely, because the box is still a closed air system. So if you have a box in the middle of a room, or say a smaller box that you need in the center of a large vehicles, PR's would make the sound louder and also keep loading (pressure) in the box, in situations where ported boxes would unload quickly, due to their position in the cabin or environmental airspace.

If you wanna try something nuts, let me do a 4th or series 6th order with Passive radiators. You could do a wild 4th order, using only PR's as the port, instead of using an air tube port, lol. Or you could do a series 6th order where the rear chamber is PR and the front is just a big port. That would be fun to play with, for me. I bet I could make it sound super good, too.
 
dude please stay at DIYMA and leave here......i read enough of your stupid ass posts over at diyma and i dont want to read that **** over here at caraudio.com
Normally I would say damn that's harsh but I'm in full agreement. The DIYMA reputation/attitude really does him no favors
Wow, a lot of hate in this thread. Thats a big nice Hello Welcome to the Forums for you.
He's basically the DIYMA version of Bobby but even cockier. I don't think this forum can handle having 2 Bobbys :ROFLMAO:
 
Normally I would say damn that's harsh but I'm in full agreement. The DIYMA reputation/attitude really does him no favors
He's basically the DIYMA version of Bobby but even cockier. I don't think this forum can handle having 2 Bobbys :ROFLMAO:
Ya’ know, when I first read this I was totally confused.... I was like, “DIYMA attitude” ? WTF is he talking about ? I get along great with people there..... Then it dawned on me...... Almost certainly this has nothing to do with Car Audio, but rather, I started those couple of threads almost a year ago which are totally political, and sure, if your on the other side, you would think I’m the biggest, most idiotic A-hole in the planet 😀 lol
Welcome to the Divided States of America, where each half of the American people, think the other half are completely out of their minds. Anyway, when I started coming here, I saw that their is an off topic section with all the same kinds of political bashing BS going on, but decided not to even bother with that stuff here.
So anyway, I’m here to talk about car audio stuff, with nothing but a positive attitude. If that’s not your thing, I will just ignore you.

Peace.
 
I’m running a Skar ZVX 18, rated for 1600 wts RMS. I’m powering it with a Wolfram C2500.1 which was bench tested by Williston to put out 2635 wts RMS into 1 ohm...... But I know that because of impedance drop, among other things, my sub is probably only seeing 1800-2000 wts RMS. What’s your guess ? Anyway, it sounds great. Haven’t had any problems with it. Just kind of bored. How much more do you think this sub could take ?
Oh, and BTW, I currently have it in a 5 cu ft box, with two 15” passive radiators (acting as my port) tuned to 32hz. My subwoofer doesn’t even come close to bottoming out.... but my poor passives sure do 😀 lol I’ve already had a few issues with those, but good for now.
LOVE the performance of this enclosure, but I’ve always been concerned about thermal cooling in what is essentially, a sealed enclosure... Easy answer though, I could always invert the sub ?
Oh, and one more thing, I NEVER sit there and clip the chit out of my power. The first tiny bit of red flicker I see on my clipping indicator, I back off a touch. I want it as loud as possible, but if it distorts, it doesn’t count 🙂View attachment 28831View attachment 28832View attachment 28833
10,000 horsepower
 
How did you calculate the weight for the passive radiators for the 32hz tune?
You must first calculate the volume of air that port area = to your passive cone area would be then multiply that by the mass of air that would be contained in that port.... or just trial and error.

For high power/high excursion you probably want to be more like double the active cone area in passive cone area. Once tuned they theoretically behave just like a port except they're a lot of money and will require a lot of surface area on your box instead of large volume the a big port would eat up for you.

Got a pair that someone DIY'd on a forum and I picked up cheap, never had an opportunity to do anything with them and they're up in the garage gathering dust.
 
You must first calculate the volume of air that port area = to your passive cone area would be then multiply that by the mass of air that would be contained in that port.... or just trial and error.

For high power/high excursion you probably want to be more like double the active cone area in passive cone area. Once tuned they theoretically behave just like a port except they're a lot of money and will require a lot of surface area on your box instead of large volume the a big port would eat up for you.

Got a pair that someone DIY'd on a forum and I picked up cheap, never had an opportunity to do anything with them and they're up in the garage gathering dust.
I just used WIN Isd 🙂 plugged in all the info it asked for.
My PR's were not too expensive. Got them on sale from Parts Express for $79 each. But I should have gotten the 18" for $123
 
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