How much do you think this sub can actually take ???

I’m running a Skar ZVX 18, rated for 1600 wts RMS. I’m powering it with a Wolfram C2500.1 which was bench tested by Williston to put out 2635 wts RMS into 1 ohm...... But I know that because of impedance drop, among other things, my sub is probably only seeing 1800-2000 wts RMS. What’s your guess ? Anyway, it sounds great. Haven’t had any problems with it. Just kind of bored. How much more do you think this sub could take ?
Oh, and BTW, I currently have it in a 5 cu ft box, with two 15” passive radiators (acting as my port) tuned to 32hz. My subwoofer doesn’t even come close to bottoming out.... but my poor passives sure do 😀 lol I’ve already had a few issues with those, but good for now.
LOVE the performance of this enclosure, but I’ve always been concerned about thermal cooling in what is essentially, a sealed enclosure... Easy answer though, I could always invert the sub ?
Oh, and one more thing, I NEVER sit there and clip the chit out of my power. The first tiny bit of red flicker I see on my clipping indicator, I back off a touch. I want it as loud as possible, but if it distorts, it doesn’t count 🙂View attachment 28831View attachment 28832View attachment 28833
10,000 horsepower
 
How did you calculate the weight for the passive radiators for the 32hz tune?
You must first calculate the volume of air that port area = to your passive cone area would be then multiply that by the mass of air that would be contained in that port.... or just trial and error.

For high power/high excursion you probably want to be more like double the active cone area in passive cone area. Once tuned they theoretically behave just like a port except they're a lot of money and will require a lot of surface area on your box instead of large volume the a big port would eat up for you.

Got a pair that someone DIY'd on a forum and I picked up cheap, never had an opportunity to do anything with them and they're up in the garage gathering dust.
 
You must first calculate the volume of air that port area = to your passive cone area would be then multiply that by the mass of air that would be contained in that port.... or just trial and error.

For high power/high excursion you probably want to be more like double the active cone area in passive cone area. Once tuned they theoretically behave just like a port except they're a lot of money and will require a lot of surface area on your box instead of large volume the a big port would eat up for you.

Got a pair that someone DIY'd on a forum and I picked up cheap, never had an opportunity to do anything with them and they're up in the garage gathering dust.
I just used WIN Isd 🙂 plugged in all the info it asked for.
My PR's were not too expensive. Got them on sale from Parts Express for $79 each. But I should have gotten the 18" for $123
 
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