How can ONE 10" SQL sub sound?

[Chowder Head 10+ year member]

SRim, I'd like something that gets loud but I don't want anything that weighs a ton since I have a speed fetish or anything that sounds like muddy crap. The way that I figure it is I'll be plenty of happy with 1 10s or 1 12 as I'm more concerned with sound quality than it "being loud" although I do want to feel it. I've been listening to this craptastic Mach 460 system for a LONG *** time, haha. Hell, I don't even think the speaker doors are working, as I'm only hearing sound from the stock tweeters, haha.

 

[Kyle_Keating 10+ year member]

Hey guys, as the title suggests, I was wondering if anyone can give me a rough estimate on how a single 10" sub can sound. Even though I don't know much about them, I'm going to refrain from using words such as "lows" and "loud" since I hear those are words that are trigger words for a flame fest, ha.
The sub in question I was looking at would be the IDQv3d4 sub. I've looked around in the classifies and I see a guy selling one for fairly cheap so if I were to get that and leave it like that, as in not get a second one or anything, any ideas how it will sound? I primarily listen to rock, punk, and some classic stuff with a few rap and techno every now and the. I'm seeking tight, clean, accurate bass which from what I hear, the IDQv3d4 delivers in that aspect. The only part in question would be how would it sound during rap and techno? Still pretty decent?

If it helps, here's the rest of my system that will soon get installed. I just have to pick a day where it's not freaking raining, haha.

HU: Pioneer DEH-P880PRS

Mids: Mach 5 MLI-65

Tweets: Seas Neo aluminum

Amp: Kicker ZX700.5 (birth sheet rated at 919 watts IIRC)

As you can tell, I'm going to run the tweets, mids, and sub off of the 5 channel amp.

So what do you all think? The more descriptive you can be the better. Not to sound demanding or anything though, haha. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Any replies would be greatly appreciated, thank you!

big misconception about SQ subs and size...

small subs are good when:

you dont have much power

you dont have much space.

you want to be different (not necessary better)

big subs are good when:

lower distortion

more SPL

make up what your definition of SQ is, but mine is louder and less distortion which pretty much weeds out small subs. in fact i think 12" should really be the smallest size a subwoofer should be made in - its a personal thing.

as far as extension, small subs can be designed to reach low and large subs can be designed to reach higher. Because larger woofers tend to be more sensitive, larger subs actuality are better at highs most of the time and because they have more displacement, they are equally better a the lows. That's not to say larger is always better but in the case of subwoofers, this occurs frequently because TOO many mfrs design smaller drivers to be a subwoofer and sensitivity goes out the door. an 8 or 10" midbass woofer can reach 90. But thats good because so can a big 18" sub. But you'll never find a 8" sub much beyond 85 unless its got a lot less xmax in which case its not really a sub :\

They are really trying to make something thats not appropriate for a sub, into a sub because it can sell.

the biggest issue that the big guys have with higher frequencies is not mass, but inductance, but if you can overcome that, you can reach very high frequencies with a subwoofer, and its light enough (sensitivity driven), you can take it clear the cone wavelength limit, nearly 800 Hz for a 15" woofer! I have seen "formal" subs that can do that with great SPL and surpass 5,6, 8" midbass woofers all day long. They had pro audio softparts, but non th less - respectable xmax and almost no inductance too.

 

[KHARPS 10+ year member]

I think you should seriously look into buying my sub http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=330319&highlight=bl10

From what I've read you are not looking for "sq", you just want a sub that can pick up the lower frequencies in your music without sounding like crap, right? The BL is by no means a sq woofer....but it doesn't sound like crap either. It has the potential to get plenty loud when you want it to....but also when you don't feel like blasting your music, turn the subwoofer controll on your headunit down and it'll fit in nicely.

But...if I'm wrong with my assumption, and you just want a sub to play with from time to time, then there's no reason to spend $200. You can find something else for much cheaper.

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

he doesn't have the power for a BL. 420 watts isn't optimal for a BL.

 

[KHARPS 10+ year member]

Oh sorry....I must have skipped over that part.

 

[KHARPS 10+ year member]

I just bought some 10'' Icons and they're only getting 500 apiece and it gets them moving plenty. Maybe one of those would work well for you? The guy I bought them from still has 2 left. They are dual 2 ohm and shipped for $160. I'll get a hold of him for you if you're interested...just let me know.

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

SRim, I'd like something that gets loud but I don't want anything that weighs a ton since I have a speed fetish or anything that sounds like muddy crap. The way that I figure it is I'll be plenty of happy with 1 10s or 1 12 as I'm more concerned with sound quality than it "being loud" although I do want to feel it. I've been listening to this craptastic Mach 460 system for a LONG *** time, haha. Hell, I don't even think the speaker doors are working, as I'm only hearing sound from the stock tweeters, haha.

see thats the thing. 1 10, u really arent going to get much more output than you would if you just got a really good comp set. ive got 1 12, getting 1100rms and im on that cusp where im just happy enough but would like it a smidge louder. thats why i said either 1 12, or a really good comp set to save you space, weight. both of those factors are big issues in my install which is why i went with the single driver as well. i said the same thing. i dont care about being loud just as long as its loud enough, and then once i got it i decided i wanted more. thats why i always suggest going a step above what you originally planned because in this car audio "addiction" we all have we get used to what we got so quickly, which is why the classifieds are always full of fairly new stuff.

just assume you are going to do the upgrade and upgrade before you start. youll save yourself alot of time and money that way. if in all honestly you dont want to "get loud" then a really nice comp set should do the trick. just trying to give you a different perspective than the norm and help you learn from my experience.

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

see thats the thing. 1 10, u really arent going to get much more output than you would if you just got a really good comp set. ive got 1 12, getting 1100rms and im on that cusp where im just happy enough but would like it a smidge louder. thats why i said either 1 12, or a really good comp set to save you space, weight. both of those factors are big issues in my install which is why i went with the single driver as well. i said the same thing. i dont care about being loud just as long as its loud enough, and then once i got it i decided i wanted more. thats why i always suggest going a step above what you originally planned because in this car audio "addiction" we all have we get used to what we got so quickly, which is why the classifieds are always full of fairly new stuff.
just assume you are going to do the upgrade and upgrade before you start. youll save yourself alot of time and money that way. if in all honestly you dont want to "get loud" then a really nice comp set should do the trick. just trying to give you a different perspective than the norm and help you learn from my experience.

not true at all man. my single ten on 600 watts has plenty of output.

mid 130's is easy on a single ported ten on moderate power. now, mid 130's isn't crazy crazy loud, but it is loud. a pair of 6.5" comps won't get to mid 130 at anything below 80hz.

 

[Chowder Head 10+ year member]

I appreciate the input SRim. I always a fan of different opinions, that way I get a chance to think about something I haven't previously thought of. I'm still leaning towards the original plan but I will keep in mind what you suggested. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Got another question guys. What's the box requirement difference when you compare a box with two 10"s or a box with one 12"? I've heard they're quite similar in design, hence why a lot of people have a tough time deciding beacuse the volume is right around the same. Is this true or am I referring to something else?

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

I appreciate the input SRim. I always a fan of different opinions, that way I get a chance to think about something I haven't previously thought of. I'm still leaning towards the original plan but I will keep in mind what you suggested. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Got another question guys. What's the box requirement difference when you compare a box with two 10"s or a box with one 12"? I've heard they're quite similar in design, hence why a lot of people have a tough time deciding beacuse the volume is right around the same. Is this true or am I referring to something else?

all depends on the specific sub(s) but two tens will require a box probably a lil bigger than a single 12. all depends on the sub.

 

[Macklessdaddy 10+ year member]

your whole setup should sound good. the mids and tweets are talked highly off.
but if you are going to run a single 10 on about 420 watts in a trunk you better port it. put it in about 1.25cu ft and tune it low, like around 28-32hz. a 3" diameter port should be enough.

I don't understand what you mean,i have 1 ID10V3 in a sealed box off of 350 watts and it is plenty enough unless you are a basshead ,matter of fact I can't stand it cranked for more than 5 minutes,so why does it have to be ported

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

I don't understand what you mean,i have 1 ID10V3 in a sealed box off of 350 watts and it is plenty enough unless you are a basshead ,matter of fact I can't stand it cranked for more than 5 minutes,so why does it have to be ported

i guess i like more bass or deeper bass.

 

[Legend 10+ year member]

Hcd3 10 Fa Sho.

 

[Chowder Head 10+ year member]

Hmm....I've also been looking at the Mach 5 IXL 12.2.2. Although I read a lot about it, most of threads I've seen have people stating that they really enjoy this sub. Price isn't that bad either for a SQ sub, right around $190 over at SSA. Just for clarification, since this sub has a 2 ohm impedence, my amp, which can do 420 watts @ 2 ohms, can supply this sub with the full 420 watts of power if I needed to, correct? If anyone has personally used these new line of subs or have heard anything more positive about them, please let me know.

Lastly, does anyone know the port requirements on these? Hopefully mrogowski or denim can revisit this thread as I had a great experience when ordering my mids (hopefully should be here any day!)

Deciding really, really sucks. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

this is all very car specific too. though ive had systems with 2 10's off 400rms, 2 12's off 1200rms, 1 12 off 1200rms, 3 10's off 1200rms, the loudest by far was the 2 10's off 400rms cause it was in a hatch as opposed to the rest of the systems in a trunk car.

if you had to rank me on bass id say im exactly between "pure sq guy" and "basshead" and being that getting a single 10 wouldnt be worth the money spent, space lost, weight added. sure itll be noticeable but not worth it in my eyes. if im going to waste the money, sacrifice space and weight, id consider single 12 or multiple subs.

hopefully that clears up my stance a little bit. its not that the 10 wont be noticeable but probably not worth the hassle especially in that car.