How can ONE 10" SQL sub sound?

[Chowder Head 10+ year member]

Oh, so I could technically run two 10" Dayton HO's if I wanted to with my mono channel? Didn't know that, thanks.

But since they would be only getting 210 a piece, would it be wiser just to get one since I obviously won't have enough to power them the way they want? Or would 210 be more than okay for each?

Man this deciding thing is hard stuff, haha.

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

Oh, so I could technically run two 10" Dayton HO's if I wanted to with my mono channel? Didn't know that, thanks.
But since they would be only getting 210 a piece, would it be wiser just to get one since I obviously won't have enough to power them the way they want? Or would 210 be more than okay for each?

Man this deciding thing is hard stuff, haha.

yes you could power whatever amount of subs you want with a single amp as long as they match the impedance of the amp.

a single dayton ho ported on only 200 watts won't be very loud.

2... each on 210 watts will be quite a bit louder because it will be double the cone surface and double the power. should be 6db louder with 2.

you should be good if you get a single IDQv3 10 thats dual 4 ohm. that way it'll wire to 2 ohms and you'll get your 420 watts. just port it and you'll be good to go.

 

[budahbuddy803 10+ year member]

yeah, sorry about the sale. If it for some reason doesnt work out i will let you know.

Anyways if i were you and you have some cash i would go with 2 Dayton HO's and wire them together to achieve a 2ohm load. Still you want about 1.25cuft and about 28-32hz tuning frequency for each sub. You can go to reaudio.com and use their ported box calculator for a little help.

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

yeah, sorry about the sale. If it for some reason doesnt work out i will let you know.
Anyways if i were you and you have some cash i would go with 2 Dayton HO's and wire them together to achieve a 2ohm load. Still you want about 1.25cuft and about 28-32hz tuning frequency for each sub. You can go to reaudio.com and use their ported box calculator for a little help.

actually you'll want quite a bit smaller for the HO 10's.

.7-.75 net each is where they belong. 28-30hz tuning is where it's at with them as far as tuning. if using two go with 28hz to get extra bottom end.

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

if you are seriously only considering 1 10" sub i think you might want to consider a diy comp setup where you ditch the sub and get really good mids that play low. i read a thread over at DIY of a guy that got some SEAS mids and he crossed them at 40hz and said he turned his sub off and could barely notice it wasnt there.

just a though. could save space in that already non existent mustang trunk and some money on a sub and sub amp. if you want a sub id consider at least a single 12"

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

if you are seriously only considering 1 10" sub i think you might want to consider a diy comp setup where you ditch the sub and get really good mids that play low. i read a thread over at DIY of a guy that got some SEAS mids and he crossed them at 40hz and said he turned his sub off and could barely notice it wasnt there.

just a though. could save space in that already non existent mustang trunk and some money on a sub and sub amp. if you want a sub id consider at least a single 12"

this will show you how to wire 2 subs to 1 channel

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp

 

[Chowder Head 10+ year member]

if you get the dayton ho, it is a single 4 ohm coil so it can only be wired 4 ohms. so you'll get roughly half of that 420 watts. you could get two and then you'll have about 210 a piece which will be ok.

^ I just read that and that makes perfect sense. Thanks for breaking it down for me man.

Just one last question. How would I wire them both into one channel? Splice the speaker wire from each of the postives together along with the negatives together and put them in the channel? Or stick both positives in the postive area and both negative wires into the negative wire? Or something else?

Since I'm contemplating two 10" Dayton HOs, off to the WTB thread. Maybe I can snag me something cheaper than a brand new price. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Thanks again for the help guys, I appreciate it.

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

if you are seriously only considering 1 10" sub i think you might want to consider a diy comp setup where you ditch the sub and get really good mids that play low. i read a thread over at DIY of a guy that got some SEAS mids and he crossed them at 40hz and said he turned his sub off and could barely notice it wasnt there.
just a though. could save space in that already non existent mustang trunk and some money on a sub and sub amp. if you want a sub id consider at least a single 12"

that might sound good while sitting in your driveway but not once moving down the highway. road noise will over power any 6.5 and most 8's when crossed that low. also the lower you cross the mid the worse the mid range will sound.

leave sub bass to a sub.

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

^ I just read that and that makes perfect sense. Thanks for breaking it down for me man.
Just one last question. How would I wire them both into one channel? Splice the speaker wire from each of the postives together along with the negatives together and put them in the channel? Or stick both positives in the postive area and both negative wires into the negative wire? Or something else?

Since I'm contemplating two 10" Dayton HOs, off to the WTB thread. Maybe I can snag me something cheaper than a brand new price. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Thanks again for the help guys, I appreciate it.

i can't remember off the top of my head which wires go where but its easy. go to rockford's site or jbl's site and look at the wiring diagrams.

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

that might sound good while sitting in your driveway but not once moving down the highway. road noise will over power any 6.5 and most 8's when crossed that low.
leave sub bass to a sub.

ok, well isnt that what they make sound deadening for.

^^^^^ i gave him the diagram in my last post

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

ok, well isnt that what they make sound deadening for.

deadening is a never ending battle. road noise will still come in. i'd still say get a sub.

 

[Chowder Head 10+ year member]

So this wiring diagram after a brief search. Does this look right?

 

[tcguy85 10+ year member]

yup looks right.

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

deadening is a never ending battle. road noise will still come in. i'd still say get a sub.

i think if we were talking about my civic sure, its a tin can, but the mustang is a pretty solid car with some pretty good factory deadening as it is. dont think itd be that difficult to get it quiet.

im just giving my opinion based on my own experience. it doesnt seem like hes got too much experience and i ran into the same thing. i thought it i wanted some sq 10's and id be happy but then i realized either i didnt want subs or i wanted something louder. i just see that happening with this guy. if he only wants a single 10 hed probably just be happy with a really nice comp set that can play low.

 

[Chowder Head 10+ year member]

Thanks for the quick reply.

Using the link SRim posted, I confirmed it looks the same...however, I found this other option.

Just out of curiosity, when would this setup be beneficial?