high quality 8in subs?

lets stop all the bs NOW! i am willing to do a independant 8" sub testing willing to compare any 8" sub on the market, all in the same enclosure, in the same car with the same power. i would be willing to pay full retail for ONLY the sub that wins.

how many companys would step up to the plate?

dd i doubt it,would dc step up?, i bet cadence would and sundown would too.
I think what companies worry about is how one test may not be comprehensive and show all differences.

Same box, same car will never have the same power. The TSP's are different for each so they will all likely have slightly different tuning points in the same box and obviously the impedance differences will pull very different current loads from the amp. If you plotted the impedance that would be a good start. For compression testing you should start a low level, sweep the entire range and do fixed voltage increments (perhaps 3dB) until compression shows up in the frequency domain. It will start at the very low end first then work its way up top. From there we can see how much SPL can be produced before compression, but the actual power level is pretty irrelevant because its honestly impossible to normalize across the board. Amplifiers operate with constant voltage, not power and not current.

Here is an example of a very comprehensive 3rd party test. (~4000 watts were used, this is not low power levels)

TC Sounds LMS-5400 18" sealed 75L vs. 200L *special test* - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

 
If all you care about is output, you'd be wasting many companies' time.

The OP's question is dumb in its incompleteness. How he defines high quality and how other people define it may not be the same thing. If the question is one of pure quality, the JL 8W7 is hard to beat. There are a handful of other 8" SQ subs that would be in that category as well. All too many on here, however, define quality solely by quantity of output. Fidelity and real low end extension is totally lost on them.

Without actually enumerating what qualities you're looking for, any answer is going to be meaningless.

 
8"..my **** is bigger than that.
90673d1223437011-beef-thread-gtfo3bp.jpg


 
what i like is real world testing nothing else really matters to me.

impedence will change a lil sub to sub but how you test is vol test. start out at vol 10 burp each sub, then 15 then 20 then 25 what not. dont care what sub handles more power who cares about that its all about what sub gets louder.

if x sub dose a 140 at vol15 but smokes at vol 20. and sub y dose a 139 at vol 20 and blows at vol 25 who cares cause it handles more power dosent matter. (example)

would actually need to burp at every click of the vol and regulate constant voltage along with cooling time.

 
what i like is real world testing nothing else really matters to me. impedence will change a lil sub to sub but how you test is vol test. start out at vol 10 burp each sub, then 15 then 20 then 25 what not. dont care what sub handles more power who cares about that its all about what sub gets louder.

if x sub dose a 140 at vol15 but smokes at vol 20. and sub y dose a 139 at vol 20 and blows at vol 25 who cares cause it handles more power dosent matter. (example)

would actually need to burp at every click of the vol and regulate constant voltage along with cooling time.
I'm sorry, but real world vs testing is a co-out. You need to learn how to do "REAL" tests. (No offense, this is a general statement, and not directed at you alone). The only thing that real world will do is add more variables then can not be accounted all the time. We have such low standards for car audio testing and its really problematic and leads to misinformation.

Why look at a burp when you can sweep, and look at the entire range and see where one speaker might actually beat another. You may find woofer A is better at 50Hz, but woofer B is actually better at 30Hz. Ontop of that you can compare the distortion at every frequency. Take a look at what Ilkka did, did you that click on that link yet? In fact you don't even need a car for testing. Ilkka tested HT subs but he didnt use an room - same idea. These test should be done on the ground outside at a fixed distance. The car will effect every sub exactly the same - its just a transfer function and room conditions, remove it and you have one less variable that makes no comparative difference.

You may disagree, but if you're wondering why manufactures don't "step up" That's why. ^^^

 
I heard an 8" American bass I can't remember what series but I think it was an xfl... Was in a 4th order box on 200 watts... Loud with great sq people came out of the building and were like "that's an 8!?!?!" was tight

 
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