High powered sealed setups

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anyone here run 2000+ watts in a sealed enclosure? If so what are your thoughts? Always ran ported, but I'm gonna switch up just to see the differences.
you'll be subjected to your car's cabin gain a lot since you dont have a port to smooth out frequency response peaks and dips so dont be surprised if your car just likes 47 hz and falls off a cliff after 30hz depending on your resonant frequency.
 
you'll be subjected to your car's cabin gain a lot since you dont have a port to smooth out frequency response peaks and dips so dont be surprised if your car just likes 47 hz and falls off a cliff after 30hz depending on your resonant frequency.
Kind of what I assumed would happen. Thought maybe about making the box a bit bigger (2.5-3 cubes for a 15) to kind of combat that frequency response. Nevertheless its going to be an interesting experiment. Thanks for your input!
 
Kind of what I assumed would happen. Thought maybe about making the box a bit bigger (2.5-3 cubes for a 15) to kind of combat that frequency response. Nevertheless its going to be an interesting experiment. Thanks for your input!
you can choose stuff like stereo integrity's sub which gives you massive lows in very small sealed enclosures but those subs cost a lot of cheddah, the only sealed setups that would have pretty ridiculous low low notes with great impact i'd say. You can choose high QTS options from sub makers like FI and stuff to get adequate low end impact. It can be done and your group delay would be less with higher accuracy and you'll have a more linear response vs a flat response. It'll still be decently loud, just not what you are used to.
 
you can choose stuff like stereo integrity's sub which gives you massive lows in very small sealed enclosures but those subs cost a lot of cheddah, the only sealed setups that would have pretty ridiculous low low notes with great impact i'd say. You can choose high QTS options from sub makers like FI and stuff to get adequate low end impact. It can be done and your group delay would be less with higher accuracy and you'll have a more linear response vs a flat response. It'll still be decently loud, just not what you are used to.
Understood. Thanks for a scientific answer instead of the usual boom vs sq response. Exactly what I was looking for
 
Understood. Thanks for a scientific answer instead of the usual boom vs sq response. Exactly what I was looking for
Keep in mind that most of the "car audio" branded woofers these days are being designed around functioning best in ported alignment. So not sure how much space or money you have to throw at this project into shopping out new gear. People used to get pretty loud just jamming as much cone area as they could into tiny sealed boxes back in the old days. I've sat in some violent demo vehicles with huge cone area in sealed boxes, though for the trouble of building walls like that I don't know why you'd opt for that approach unless you just happened to have say a couple dozen old school 250W type subs kicking around in your garage or something.
 
Keep in mind that most of the "car audio" branded woofers these days are being designed around functioning best in ported alignment. So not sure how much space or money you have to throw at this project into shopping out new gear. People used to get pretty loud just jamming as much cone area as they could into tiny sealed boxes back in the old days. I've sat in some violent demo vehicles with huge cone area in sealed boxes, though for the trouble of building walls like that I don't know why you'd opt for that approach unless you just happened to have say a couple dozen old school 250W type subs kicking around in your garage or something.
Nah not buying new equipment. I'm just gonna run my 15" woofer I have now and play around with it a little bit.
 
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