Help with Mustang Big 3 and 5000 Watt Setup!! Please reply!!

[Iconic Limited]

Hey guys, I apologize for being newer than some of you to the forum. I feel like this forum has more action than the mustang evolution forums especially concerning audio. Here goes:

I'm finishing up a car audio install on my 2004 Mustang GT and I want to make sure I'm doing everything right. I'm posting this because there have only been tidbits of information regarding the 2004 install difficulties (mainly dealing with the chassis) SO I wanted to present everything I know and have done here and I look to the car audio forum gods for help!

Car: 2004 Mustang GT

Subs: 2x 3000 watt Boss subs (12") at 1093 watts RMS

Bass is set up to Sealed box with 4 gauge wire parallels 4ohm configuration. True 0 gauge wire run to a planet audio monoblock D amp (4000 Watts)

Amps: Bass - Planet Audio 4000 watt Monoblock D

Components - Boss R1100 A/B 4 channel

Components: 2x Infinity 6030CS Components and tweeters w/ crossover (1 set in front, 1 in rear)

Alternator: 250 amp

 

Battery: Shuriken BT140 COMING SOON

Power to amps setup:

- 0 gauge running from battery to monoblock D under rear seats, 0 gauge ground to back floor panel.

- 0 gauge running from battery to 1000 watt A/B in came location. 0 gauge Ground back to battery

*Using 16 gauge wire from 1000 Watt A/B to components

* Using 14 gauge Wire from 4000 Watt Monoblock D to Subs (parallels 4 ohm to 4 ohm amp)

As far as the Big 3, I believe I'm doing what is considered to be the big 4:

All in 0 gauge:

* Alternator + to Battery +

* Alternator - to Chassis -

* Battery - to Chassis -

* Engine Block to Chassis -

Question 1: As far as mustangs, I heard the Chassis is actually 2 parts, which makes grounding back there pointless. Should I run both amps - back to Battery - to be sure that it's coming back to a true - terminal?

Question 2: Also, what is the point of running Engine Block to Chassis -? And for that reason wouldn't it make sense to run that engine block - to Battery -?

As far as I know, testing - spots on alternator would be using a multimeter on both sides of the wire and testing Ohm's correct? and making sure it doesn't exceed the Ohm rating on the points of the wire itself (if I was just holding 2 ends of wire without being connected).

Question 3: What do I do with the factory wires that run to the battery terminal? just leave them connected? I can't quite tell where they go, but I was trying to clean up the connections that go to the battery.

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[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Not much you can do here. The Amps are not efficient at all should have asked for advise before you spent your cash. The subs maybe are 300 rms each. The amps. Maybe 60 watts x4 and maybe 550 at best. But they will really be hard on your electrical. Run a ground from the battery to the rear

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

agree with dedicated ground to rear.

reason for engine block to chassis is that your alternator produces the power needed by the system and chassis grounding is how everything is connected in the car. your factory block to chassis jumper is probably only 8 awg. just replace the factory jumper with new 1/0.

 

[Iconic Limited]

Not much you can do here. The Amps are not efficient at all should have asked for advise before you spent your cash. The subs maybe are 300 rms each. The amps. Maybe 60 watts x4 and maybe 550 at best. But they will really be hard on your electrical. Run a ground from the battery to the rear

Thank you for your reply! I want to make sure I understand what you are saying. You are saying the amps are misleading in their rating description? I have the subs/4000 amp in already, the other parts aren't installed so there is a chance. My planet audio isn't pushing 4000 and the Boss R1100 isn't actually putting the 1100 output stated? Do you have Amp suggestions?

 

[Iconic Limited]

agree with dedicated ground to rear.
reason for engine block to chassis is that your alternator produces the power needed by the system and chassis grounding is how everything is connected in the car. your factory block to chassis jumper is probably only 8 awg. just replace the factory jumper with new 1/0.

Ok. Would it make sense to run Engine Block to Battery negative and run a Battery Negative to Chassis? or keep the 2 separate and have EB to Chassis negative and Battery Negative to Chassis Negative?

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

Thank you for your reply! I want to make sure I understand what you are saying. You are saying the amps are misleading in their rating description? I have the subs/4000 amp in already, the other parts aren't installed so there is a chance. My planet audio isn't pushing 4000 and the Boss R1100 isn't actually putting the 1100 output stated? Do you have Amp suggestions?

Well you already have them, if you like the output you get once you do the big 3 then there's no real reason to swap. I'm sure everyone will recommend a huge setup, but depending on your tastes you might be satisfied with what you have for now... but once the bug bites you'll keep wanting louder.

The biggest part of any install is having a well designed and built box.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Thank you for your reply! I want to make sure I understand what you are saying. You are saying the amps are misleading in their rating description? I have the subs/4000 amp in already, the other parts aren't installed so there is a chance. My planet audio isn't pushing 4000 and the Boss R1100 isn't actually putting the 1100 output stated? Do you have Amp suggestions?

Yes. They are not even close to that

 

[Iconic Limited]

Well you already have them, if you like the output you get once you do the big 3 then there's no real reason to swap. I'm sure everyone will recommend a huge setup, but depending on your tastes you might be satisfied with what you have for now... but once the bug bites you'll keep wanting louder.
The biggest part of any install is having a well designed and built box.

I have definitely been bit by the bug! It started when I got a new install of my Viper 5906V Alarm system and the installers messed up my factory Mach 1k front speakers. I thought to myself, why haven't I upgraded these yet? Especially since they sound completely blown out at any level above a moderate whisper now.

Do you have recommendations for a box that would fit a tiny 04 GT trunk? I was debating going ported but I liked the clarity of a sealed box. I didn't know how much I would lose going ported.

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

I have definitely been bit by the bug! It started when I got a new install of my Viper 5906V Alarm system and the installers messed up my factory Mach 1k front speakers. I thought to myself, why haven't I upgraded these yet? Especially since they sound completely blown out at any level above a moderate whisper now.
Do you have recommendations for a box that would fit a tiny 04 GT trunk? I was debating going ported but I liked the clarity of a sealed box. I didn't know how much I would lose going ported.

If you built / have someone build a ported box properly you may be impressed with their performance. A ported box will have quite a bit more output. Your trunk space is very limited though. Prefabricated enclosures aren't a good representation of how ported boxes really perform with the proper volume and port area / tuning.

The subs and amps are still pretty mediocre, however laying the foundation with a good box compatible with something nicer would make it easy to upgrade. And if you end up being satisfied with their output anyway, that's still a win.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='Iconic Limited']I have definitely been bit by the bug! It started when I got a new install of my Viper 5906V Alarm system and the installers messed up my factory Mach 1k front speakers. I thought to myself, why haven't I upgraded these yet? Especially since they sound completely blown out at any level above a moderate whisper now.

Do you have recommendations for a box that would fit a tiny 04 GT trunk? I was debating going ported but I liked the clarity of a sealed box. I didn't know how much I would lose going ported.[/QUOTE]

@CSCStang has a very good sounding mustang and he can build you a perfect SQ box for your stang.

 

[Iconic Limited]

[quote name='Jeffdachef']@CSCStang has a very good sounding mustang and he can build you a perfect SQ box for your stang.[/QUOTE]

Thank you! I'm learning so much here lol. I think I've become an audiophile. Specs of speakers and electronics are driving me crazy. I will definitely hit him up.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thank you for your reply! I want to make sure I understand what you are saying. You are saying the amps are misleading in their rating description? I have the subs/4000 amp in already, the other parts aren't installed so there is a chance. My planet audio isn't pushing 4000 and the Boss R1100 isn't actually putting the 1100 output stated? Do you have Amp suggestions?

its not a chance, its WIDELY known that these companies CON and SCAM noobs with over inflated and bloated specs. there's a blacklist of gear you need to stay way from.

Here is a true 4k amp

 

[Iconic Limited]

its not a chance, its WIDELY known that these companies CON and SCAM noobs with over inflated and bloated specs. there's a blacklist of gear you need to stay way from.
Here is a true 4k amp

Thank you for letting me know! I guess my question now is How many watts is safe to run total on 250 Amp alternator and Shuriken BT140? I don't necessarily want to add a second alternator or battery (still like my speed and curb weight of my GT) I was thinking I could stretch and get some subs that would be future proof in case I want to make an all out system later. I was thinking a pair of DC audio Level 5 12's and either the Twisted sounds amp you mentioned or matching DC audio amp. Were the components I picked initially decent?

 

[Iconic Limited]

Yes. They are not even close to that

What are your thoughts on 2 DC audio level 5 12's (future proof in case I want to make an all out comp system later) and how many watts for single 250 amp alternator and Shuriken BT140 Battery?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thank you for letting me know! I guess my question now is How many watts is safe to run total on 250 Amp alternator and Shuriken BT140? I don't necessarily want to add a second alternator or battery (still like my speed and curb weight of my GT) I was thinking I could stretch and get some subs that would be future proof in case I want to make an all out system later. I was thinking a pair of DC audio Level 5 12's and either the Twisted sounds amp you mentioned or matching DC audio amp. Were the components I picked initially decent?

you Arent gonna fit a pair of 12s in your mustang. Maybe one 12 but no way in hell will you fit two unless you build the box inside the trunk, Your trunk opening is ridiculous with its shape. Infinities are okay.

What brand is the alternator? Whats your current voltage drops like?