Iconic Limited
Junior Member
Hey guys, I apologize for being newer than some of you to the forum. I feel like this forum has more action than the mustang evolution forums especially concerning audio. Here goes:
I'm finishing up a car audio install on my 2004 Mustang GT and I want to make sure I'm doing everything right. I'm posting this because there have only been tidbits of information regarding the 2004 install difficulties (mainly dealing with the chassis) SO I wanted to present everything I know and have done here and I look to the car audio forum gods for help!
Car: 2004 Mustang GT
Subs: 2x 3000 watt Boss subs (12") at 1093 watts RMS
Bass is set up to Sealed box with 4 gauge wire parallels 4ohm configuration. True 0 gauge wire run to a planet audio monoblock D amp (4000 Watts)
Amps: Bass - Planet Audio 4000 watt Monoblock D
Components - Boss R1100 A/B 4 channel
Components: 2x Infinity 6030CS Components and tweeters w/ crossover (1 set in front, 1 in rear)
Alternator: 250 amp
Battery: Shuriken BT140 COMING SOON
Power to amps setup:
- 0 gauge running from battery to monoblock D under rear seats, 0 gauge ground to back floor panel.
- 0 gauge running from battery to 1000 watt A/B in came location. 0 gauge Ground back to battery
*Using 16 gauge wire from 1000 Watt A/B to components
* Using 14 gauge Wire from 4000 Watt Monoblock D to Subs (parallels 4 ohm to 4 ohm amp)
As far as the Big 3, I believe I'm doing what is considered to be the big 4:
All in 0 gauge:
* Alternator + to Battery +
* Alternator - to Chassis -
* Battery - to Chassis -
* Engine Block to Chassis -
Question 1: As far as mustangs, I heard the Chassis is actually 2 parts, which makes grounding back there pointless. Should I run both amps - back to Battery - to be sure that it's coming back to a true - terminal?
Question 2: Also, what is the point of running Engine Block to Chassis -? And for that reason wouldn't it make sense to run that engine block - to Battery -?
As far as I know, testing - spots on alternator would be using a multimeter on both sides of the wire and testing Ohm's correct? and making sure it doesn't exceed the Ohm rating on the points of the wire itself (if I was just holding 2 ends of wire without being connected).
Question 3: What do I do with the factory wires that run to the battery terminal? just leave them connected? I can't quite tell where they go, but I was trying to clean up the connections that go to the battery.
I'm finishing up a car audio install on my 2004 Mustang GT and I want to make sure I'm doing everything right. I'm posting this because there have only been tidbits of information regarding the 2004 install difficulties (mainly dealing with the chassis) SO I wanted to present everything I know and have done here and I look to the car audio forum gods for help!
Car: 2004 Mustang GT
Subs: 2x 3000 watt Boss subs (12") at 1093 watts RMS
Bass is set up to Sealed box with 4 gauge wire parallels 4ohm configuration. True 0 gauge wire run to a planet audio monoblock D amp (4000 Watts)
Amps: Bass - Planet Audio 4000 watt Monoblock D
Components - Boss R1100 A/B 4 channel
Components: 2x Infinity 6030CS Components and tweeters w/ crossover (1 set in front, 1 in rear)
Alternator: 250 amp
Battery: Shuriken BT140 COMING SOON
Power to amps setup:
- 0 gauge running from battery to monoblock D under rear seats, 0 gauge ground to back floor panel.
- 0 gauge running from battery to 1000 watt A/B in came location. 0 gauge Ground back to battery
*Using 16 gauge wire from 1000 Watt A/B to components
* Using 14 gauge Wire from 4000 Watt Monoblock D to Subs (parallels 4 ohm to 4 ohm amp)
As far as the Big 3, I believe I'm doing what is considered to be the big 4:
All in 0 gauge:
* Alternator + to Battery +
* Alternator - to Chassis -
* Battery - to Chassis -
* Engine Block to Chassis -
Question 1: As far as mustangs, I heard the Chassis is actually 2 parts, which makes grounding back there pointless. Should I run both amps - back to Battery - to be sure that it's coming back to a true - terminal?
Question 2: Also, what is the point of running Engine Block to Chassis -? And for that reason wouldn't it make sense to run that engine block - to Battery -?
As far as I know, testing - spots on alternator would be using a multimeter on both sides of the wire and testing Ohm's correct? and making sure it doesn't exceed the Ohm rating on the points of the wire itself (if I was just holding 2 ends of wire without being connected).
Question 3: What do I do with the factory wires that run to the battery terminal? just leave them connected? I can't quite tell where they go, but I was trying to clean up the connections that go to the battery.