help with 2 way active speaker setup

[rodneypierce 10+ year member]

What can you fit? haha
I'd recommend some 7's if you can, and then tweeters in the a-pillars or on the dash aimed on-axis. What is your budget?

Shop around on PartsExpress and Madisound.

The max I can fit in the door buckets is 6.5 with modification. Same if I decide to go with kick panels. I would just buy the Q-Logic kick panels, which holds a max of 6.5 as well.

Obviously, the cheaper the better (I dont want to shell out 300.00 a speaker or anything like that, but dont mind paying a decent price for a solid proven speaker) And I also would like to get something to work with the current amp setup.

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

Maybe some Dayton RS180's, they're a good start and fairly inexpensive. As for tweeters, look into some Vifa or Peerless in small format at Madisound. I also second the motion for deadening your doors very well, and aiming your tweeters makes a world of difference. Next step, would also be measuring speaker distances and setting up your time alignment.

 

[rodneypierce 10+ year member]

ngsm, I actually have the TA set. But I didnt measure. I did it with pink noise and isolated each individual speaker. Its not perfect, but its not bad. I also did the phase reversing of each individual speaker, then both as a pair. Everything ended up normal except the sub is reversed, and the drivers side mid is reversed.

I couldnt understand the measurement deal. Care to explain that by chance? Something about furthest speaker, yada yada. i couldnt get the jist of it from the eclipse manual.

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

ngsm, I actually have the TA set. But I didnt measure. I did it with pink noise and isolated each individual speaker. Its not perfect, but its not bad. I also did the phase reversing of each individual speaker, then both as a pair. Everything ended up normal except the sub is reversed, and the drivers side mid is reversed.
I couldnt understand the measurement deal. Care to explain that by chance? Something about furthest speaker, yada yada. i couldnt get the jist of it from the eclipse manual.

I'm not familiar with the settings on the Eclipse, do you adjust them based on distance (inches) or time (milliseconds)?

 

[rodneypierce 10+ year member]

time. They have a calculation that converts the distance in cm to ms. so i measured the distance to each speaker center from the center of the head rest in inches, converted it to CM, but then didnt know what to do from there.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

The Dayton RS 180 may not be a great choice. They would need a tweeter that plays pretty low. I'd look for a mid that can at least get u to 3khz like the silver flutes.

 

[rodneypierce 10+ year member]

The Dayton RS 180 may not be a great choice. They would need a tweeter that plays pretty low. I'd look for a mid that can at least get u to 3khz like the silver flutes.

problem being these are **** near impossible to find. There are a few other options though.

How about some of these?

Peerless 830946 SLS 6.5" Woofer - 4 ohm: Madisound Speaker Store

or these?

SB Acoustics SB17NRXC35-4, 6.5" Woofer: Madisound Speaker Store

or these?

Aurasound NS6-255-4A 6" Paper Cone Woofer 4 ohm: Madisound Speaker Store

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

problem being these are **** near impossible to find. There are a few other options though.
How about some of these?

Peerless 830946 SLS 6.5" Woofer - 4 ohm: Madisound Speaker Store

or these?

SB Acoustics SB17NRXC35-4, 6.5" Woofer: Madisound Speaker Store

or these?

Aurasound NS6-255-4A 6" Paper Cone Woofer 4 ohm: Madisound Speaker Store

Peerless SLS is strictly midbass. no higher than 500hz, and thats pushing it. If you want Peerless go HDS I love mine and u can find them used for cheapz

Not sure on the SB's

But those Auras are great for the price.

 

[thehardknoxlife 10+ year member]

Just throwing this out there. There is a lot more info on raw drivers at DIYMA. Pretty much everyone on that site runs an active system and use "DIY" drivers.

 

[rodneypierce 10+ year member]

Im on there as well, but have not gotten a single response on my thread. I usually seem to get better response and answer's here.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

Im on there as well, but have not gotten a single response on my thread. I usually seem to get better response and answer's here.

I post over there sometimes. Really with DIYMA its best to just find drivers you like and keep searching them on the site. Chances are they've been reviewed already. I lurk over there alot. Post rarely. My latest thread got enough attention to help me out though. Just be patient and do some searching in the mean time.

 

[thehardknoxlife 10+ year member]

Yeah, I meant to search the site. Chances are any raw driver your looking for has been discussed thoroughly. Just type in RS180 as mentioned earlier, it's a good option and well know to perform well above it's price tag. It needs a tweeter that can cross at 1.8-2khz. There are only a few options for the tweet. I will say the best ones that can cross that low are pretty pricey.

Also, the Silver Flute 6.5 mentioned earlier is another driver that performs above it price tag, but last time I check the only place that sells them has been out of stock.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

The Deadener package is fine, but sealing a door is different than deadening.

You have some gaps in your response, and that it sounds good tells me you have phase issues. Try swapping polarity on both 5.25. Reason? A 12dB/oct (and 18dB/oct) slope causes a 180deg phase shift and 24dB/oct does not.

This is the most common issue with active setups. Midbass will be uneven and muddy, highs will be harsh and unnatural. You introduced gaps to minimize the effect, Easiest is to keep all slopes at 24dB/oct. no phase shift and no issues at crossover points.

 

[rodneypierce 10+ year member]

The Deadener package is fine, but sealing a door is different than deadening.
You have some gaps in your response, and that it sounds good tells me you have phase issues. Try swapping polarity on both 5.25. Reason? A 12dB/oct (and 18dB/oct) slope causes a 180deg phase shift and 24dB/oct does not.

This is the most common issue with active setups. Midbass will be uneven and muddy, highs will be harsh and unnatural. You introduced gaps to minimize the effect, Easiest is to keep all slopes at 24dB/oct. no phase shift and no issues at crossover points.

I actually have the drivers side 5.25's phase reversed. It brought the sound stage closer to center so I left it. When I tried to reverse both of them it scattered the stage again. I will give it another shot here though. I'll try anything.

Really appreciate the help! Im very new to this, and learning more and more every day. Thanks again guys!

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

then you need to verify proper polarity on every driver. having different left and right means you have polarity mixed up.

so reverse polarity on both - so you have the same focus but you blend well. right now, you dont know what actual phase is.

it is important that you use speaker wire that has identification for polarity, and that you are consistent with polarity. i use red and black heat shrink and/or electrical tape to label speaker wires for clear identification.