Help wiring New Amp to sub

[CSCStang]

I don't like ported because of port noise and it makes the box larger. You only have one and you're not driving it hard, that's the reason I'd tell you to go ported. Specs recommend a 1.5 cu ft box with a 3" round 6" long port. Have one built to fit your sub / vehicle. I have it (one) sitting on the living room floor until I find the right amp for two/three of them or if I want to go another route. The box I have 100% settled on if I do decide to go all pioneer is going to be a down firing box fit to the car (a subaru outback) sealed (just because I don't prefer ported) with 1.25 (i believe that's the recommended specs) cu ft of airspace. I'm currently stuck trying to find a us amps 2000x so the power will be all us amps and the sound all pioneer so I'm completing sound deadening until someone posts one for sale online. I've been diligently looking at least 3 times a week... ??? for the past 2 months. Class a amp on highs and mids and a class a/b on subs is what I'm going for.

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All good. Didn't realize it was sealed. Wondering why the narrow response though. I don't run ported either, not my cup of tea. I only run tlines in all my vehicles. But of course they are much bigger. The payoff is obviously much more output with a huge bandwidth and no peaks. Very flat response.

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[Dustin_Kimble]

All good. Didn't realize it was sealed...........

The frequency response listed for these subs are 20hz to 80hz, where many other subs have a much wider range. The main reason I overlooked this is my high pass filter is set to 110hz and the sensitivity is so high. These really should put out some impressive sounds provided they are given enough clean power.

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