Help wiring New Amp to sub

[danconway327]

I have a Pioneer GM-D8601 amp that I want to use to power one of these Pioneer Ts-w3003d4.

To get the best sound how would I wire this. If I understand the manuals correctly on page eight of the amp manual it shows me connecting the bottom positive and negative to the positive and negative of the subwoofer, after i have connected the subwoofers positive to positive and negative to negative.

Am I correct?

This will give me 500 watts of continuous power @ 14.4 volts correct?

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/TS-W3003D4_InstructionManual120313.pdf

Manuals are here.

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/TS-W3003D4_InstructionManual120313.pdf[/URL]

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/GM-D8601_OwnersManual100112.pdf

 

Thanks

 

---------- Post added at 01:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:04 PM ----------

 

And here.

Click to read more...

 

[Massive spl]

Google how to wire a d4 ohm woofer to 2ohm and then follow the wiring diagram.

 

[germanyt 10+ year member]

That's a bad sub and amp combo. The amp says 1500 but is 300 watts rms at 1 ohm. The sub being dual 4 means you can wire it to 2 ohms at the lowest. So at best your getting just under 200 watts to the sub. That's pretty tame when it comes to substages.

Wire it like this but you will almost certainly not be happy with the output. A Ford F150 with a Sony stereo will have more bass.

 

[danconway327]

More Like 500 wats.... per the manual

Continuous power output ... 300W × 1 (at 14.4 V, 4W, 20 Hz to 240 Hz, ≦ 1% THD)

500W × 1 (at 14.4 V, 2W, 100 Hz, ≦ 1% THD)

800W × 1 (at 14.4 V, 1W, 100 Hz, ≦ 1% THD)

and you don't have to be a JERK "A Ford F150 with a Sony stereo will have more bass."!

 

[germanyt 10+ year member]

More Like 500 wats.... per the manual
Continuous power output ... 300W × 1 (at 14.4 V, 4W, 20 Hz to 240 Hz, ≦ 1% THD)

500W × 1 (at 14.4 V, 2W, 100 Hz, ≦ 1% THD)

800W × 1 (at 14.4 V, 1W, 100 Hz, ≦ 1% THD)

and you don't have to be a JERK "A Ford F150 with a Sony stereo will have more bass."!

Not trying to be a jerk. Just giving you a reference so you know how much output to expect. It wasn't an insult. I sell Fords so I know what they sound like. And 500 will be better. The eBay link states 300 at 1 ohm. And I didn't mean it was a bad sub or amp. Just bad wiring wise.

 

[danconway327]

Ok no problem, what do you mean by bad wiring wise?

 

[germanyt 10+ year member]

Ok no problem, what do you mean by bad wiring wise?

Just that with the dual 4 ohm sub you won't get the full capability of the amp. A dual 2 ohm would allow you to wire to 1 ohm and get the most power out of the amp.

 

[danconway327]

Ok, I see what you mean. It should be fine. its in a 2015 Soul.

 

[big scott]

some bass is better the no bass, right...

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

This thread went all bad for no reason at all.

It's a perfectly good combo and 500w is more than enough power for that sub to perform well.

In a good box it should be plenty of bass for anyone who's not a total boom doofus.

500 vs 800w rms is a non-issue, especially for a 600w sub. The main thing another 300w would get you is more heat in the voice coil.

 

[Dustin_Kimble]

As someone with this exact subwoofer, thought I'd chime in here. That amp should put 500w to the sub @ 2 ohms, the sub is rated to do 600w rms, you'll probably wind up clipping the amp trying to push the sub. The max watts is rated at 2000 making me think these subs can take a good bit more than 600w. Hopefully you'll put this in a ported box to maximize what you've got. Ill have 2 of them wired to 4 ohms with about 2000w rms power (still searching for an amp) in my final setup. I hate to tell you to spend any more money, but there's alot of simi cheap options for only 800w rms (i always overshoot my subs specs, I can always turn it down, and usually results in a cleaner sound). Also I'm super curious, how do you like it? I'm concerned about the narrow frequency response of the sub and I'm still in the position where I can change what subs I'll be running.

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[CSCStang]

As someone with this exact subwoofer, thought I'd chime in here. That amp should put 500w to the sub @ 2 ohms, the sub is rated to do 600w rms, you'll probably wind up clipping the amp trying to push the sub. The max watts is rated at 2000 making me think these subs can take a good bit more than 600w. Hopefully you'll put this in a ported box to maximize what you've got. Ill have 2 of them wired to 4 ohms with about 2000w rms power (still searching for an amp) in my final setup. I hate to tell you to spend any more money, but there's alot of simi cheap options for only 800w rms (i always overshoot my subs specs, I can always turn it down, and usually results in a cleaner sound). Also I'm super curious, how do you like it? I'm concerned about the narrow frequency response of the sub and I'm still in the position where I can change what subs I'll be running.
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What ported do you have yours in? Custom or prefab. Specs? Just curious.

 

[Dustin_Kimble]

What ported do you have yours in? Custom or prefab. Specs? Just curious.

I don't like ported because of port noise and it makes the box larger. You only have one and you're not driving it hard, that's the reason I'd tell you to go ported. Specs recommend a 1.5 cu ft box with a 3" round 6" long port. Have one built to fit your sub / vehicle.

I have it (one) sitting on the living room floor until I find the right amp for two/three of them or if I want to go another route. The box I have 100% settled on if I do decide to go all pioneer is going to be a down firing box fit to the car (a subaru outback) sealed (just because I don't prefer ported) with 1.25 (i believe that's the recommended specs) cu ft of airspace. I'm currently stuck trying to find a us amps 2000x so the power will be all us amps and the sound all pioneer so I'm completing sound deadening until someone posts one for sale online. I've been diligently looking at least 3 times a week... ??? for the past 2 months. Class a amp on highs and mids and a class a/b on subs is what I'm going for.

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I don't like ported because of port noise and it makes the box larger. You only have one and you're not driving it hard, that's the reason I'd tell you to go ported. Specs recommend a 1.5 cu ft box with a 3" round 6" long port. Have one built to fit your sub / vehicle. I have it (one) sitting on the living room floor until I find the right amp for two/three of them or if I want to go another route. The box I have 100% settled on if I do decide to go all pioneer is going to be a down firing box fit to the car (a subaru outback) sealed (just because I don't prefer ported) with 1.25 (i believe that's the recommended specs) cu ft of airspace. I'm currently stuck trying to find a us amps 2000x so the power will be all us amps and the sound all pioneer so I'm completing sound deadening until someone posts one for sale online. I've been diligently looking at least 3 times a week... ??? for the past 2 months. Class a amp on highs and mids and a class a/b on subs is what I'm going for.

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The box design is wrong if you are running into port noise and poor sound quality.

 

[Dustin_Kimble]

The box design is wrong if you are running into port noise and poor sound quality.

Very true, but a sealed box has always sounded cleaner than its ported (even with aeroports) counterpart. To me anyway.

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