Help Upgrading Audio on Tight Budget

A different point of view:
Even a modest set of speakers can sound pretty darn good when supplemented by a proper subwoofer, especially if you can EQ the tunes you are feeding them.
Most stock speakers are not that bad, but get overtaxed by doing work they are not designed for, along with sometimes being made to sound bad due to poor location choice. Most people could not tell the difference between stock and upgraded speakers (when properly EQd) unless the stock ones were SO shltty that they could not even be EQ'd to sound "flat".

On that budget and with careful shopping, you could get a decent head unit that has DSP correction, plus a sub and amp.
Buy it from the right store and you could get free head unit install plus wiring to mount the sub for about a hundred bucks.
Will it be a show vehicle? No.
Will it sound 100x better and give you lots of smiles until you get rid of car or decide to do little upgrades here and there? YES.

So do you think I would be better off replacing the head unit, just replacing the door speakers with entry level speakers (like $80 per pair?), skipping the amp, and adding a powered subwoofer? I do like bass, and door speakers sound like they would have trouble with low bass.
 
What head unit do you have in right now? Does it provide for your needs? Like BT and features needed or wanted? This is the Main source for your music listening needs and wants and what will be needed for your expansion needs and wants of the system. Get the best within your budget for your needs.If the existing radio/HU meets your criteria, then utilize it/use it.
Secondly.. I would pull each door panel and investigate your current speaker conditions. Looks can be deceiving as they may appear to be fine. Pushing in and out on the cone fairly easy as stated earlier and hearing scratching sounds and poor resistance leads to a bad speaker, as well as the surround torn. you can remove each speaker and test each with a DMM at its ohm value to see if its within its limitations of a 4 ohm or 2 ohm speaker.There is a You Tube Vid to view to learn and show how to use the DMM(Digital Multimeter);
The tweeters may still be just fine and can still be used to save funds with a simple inline Bass Blocker and wired to the new mid and use a blocker on those to save funds without a passive crossover(approx. $20 bucks on up) and run off HU power as well as placing blockers on rear speakers to run off HU power if they are still good as well.
You can add a small 4 ch. 50-100x 4 channel amplifier to get a better source of clarity and power than most 200$ hu will not provide. Id place an amplifier on the front at the min. and 2 ch amplifier(and bass blockers on rears.) Use the PLASTIC speaker baffles in the front doors rather than the Foam ones, or deaden the speaker location . Save more funds and add your sub stage later.
 
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A $400-500 budget is pretty tight, but can be done if doing some shopping and doing the work yourself and maybe some help of someone with car audio knowledge and with hands on experience.

1)- HU with dash kit and wiring harness = https://www.sonicelectronix.com/cart $158.93

2)-Front speakers call for 5.25 = http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335951755&icep_item=182351170470 $124.49

3a)-Amplifier#1 on sale for front stage= http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335951755&icep_item=282122380302

3b)-OR Amp #2 front stage= http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335951755&icep_item=110761322982

4)-Two Ch. amp kit with an extra set of RCAs for your sub amp later = http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335951755&icep_item=390675795868

5)-Door deadner. just enough around front door speaker location till you get more funds to do the rest= http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335951755&icep_item=304021312704

6)-Roller deadening tool, or worst case you can use a baseball or equiv.= http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335951755&icep_item=265161009606

7)-Bass Blockers for rear speakers if they are good to use = http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335951755&icep_item=191726642522

8a)-If rear speakers need replaced Id just pick up a pair of 50-60 rms Mids or Coax of your choice and use bass blockers on HU power.. Example=http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335951755&icep_item=124313611234

8b)-Or ?= http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335951755&icep_item=184180673265

This is what I myself would choose from for the budget at the moment. You can run another supply line later for the sub stage after getting some funds saved up, Or save some funds and choose a bit better gear.
 
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I know you said you do not need a CD player.. but for the budget.. That HU I posted with a dash install kit and wiring harness would be ideal for the $ at this point. I like that Sony you chose.. Yet, who can beat that 3 year warranty?? Though proven the brand Ive posted has had a decent run upon no issues within 2-7 years of reliability that I have experienced
 
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If you can locate some shallow 6.5s and they will fit?? Id do those of the same brand and power and set up if you can. Check your speaker size and depth and see if these will fit. Some sites say that you have 5.25s, and a couple more say 6.5s. Ive never installed in a WRX, but have seen some 6.5s and 8" mids in a custom built SQ wrx at a SQ meet
 
If you can locate some shallow 6.5s and they will fit?? Id do those of the same brand and power and set up if you can. Check your speaker size and depth and see if these will fit. Some sites say that you have 5.25s, and a couple more say 6.5s. Ive never installed in a WRX, but have seen some 6.5s and 8" mids in a custom built SQ wrx at a SQ meet
From what I understand, my WRX has 6.5" fronts but they are very shallow so most 6.5s don't fit, so most people just swap them out for 5.25s when upgrading. Here's the two that I'm debating between: Hertz K 130 Uno Series 5-1/4" component speaker system at Crutchfield and Kicker 42PSC654 6-1/2" 2-way speakers (4-ohm) for use in motorcycles, boats, and off-road vehicles at Crutchfield . The Hertz speakers are cheaper and have separate tweeters, but the Kickeres are 6.5" and produce better bass. I'm torn; any thoughts?
 
What head unit do you have in right now? Does it provide for your needs? Like BT and features needed or wanted? This is the Main source for your music listening needs and wants and what will be needed for your expansion needs and wants of the system. Get the best within your budget for your needs.If the existing radio/HU meets your criteria, then utilize it/use it.
Secondly.. I would pull each door panel and investigate your current speaker conditions. Looks can be deceiving as they may appear to be fine. Pushing in and out on the cone fairly easy as stated earlier and hearing scratching sounds and poor resistance leads to a bad speaker, as well as the surround torn. you can remove each speaker and test each with a DMM at its ohm value to see if its within its limitations of a 4 ohm or 2 ohm speaker.There is a You Tube Vid to view to learn and show how to use the DMM(Digital Multimeter);
The tweeters may still be just fine and can still be used to save funds with a simple inline Bass Blocker and wired to the new mid and use a blocker on those to save funds without a passive crossover(approx. $20 bucks on up) and run off HU power as well as placing blockers on rear speakers to run off HU power if they are still good as well.
You can add a small 4 ch. 50-100x 4 channel amplifier to get a better source of clarity and power than most 200$ hu will not provide. Id place an amplifier on the front at the min. and 2 ch amplifier(and bass blockers on rears.) Use the PLASTIC speaker baffles in the front doors rather than the Foam ones, or deaden the speaker location . Save more funds and add your sub stage later.
My current head unit (stock) definitely does not provide for my needs. I think I'm going to replace it with this: JVC KD-X370BTS Digital media receiver (does not play CDs) at Crutchfield . I'll take a look at my speakers eventually but they do sound really, really bad and I want to upgrade them anyway. I'll keep the idea of using Bass Blockers in mind though. Also, I think I'm going to skip on an amp for now and spend the money on speakers with higher sensitivity instead since an amp would only give me another few decibels with the speakers in my price range.
 
I know you said you do not need a CD player.. but for the budget.. That HU I posted with a dash install kit and wiring harness would be ideal for the $ at this point. I like that Sony you chose.. Yet, who can beat that 3 year warranty?? Though proven the brand Ive posted has had a decent run upon no issues within 2-7 years of reliability that I have experienced
For the HU you only linked the cart which is different for different users...
I think I've decided against getting an amp (unless you guys think it would be worth it at my price point) and just upgrading the door speakers and HU. Here's what I'm thinking so far:
  1. HU: JVC KD-X370BTS Digital media receiver (does not play CDs) at Crutchfield
  2. Fronts: Hertz K 130 Uno Series 5-1/4" component speaker system at Crutchfield OR Kicker 42PSC654 6-1/2" 2-way speakers (4-ohm) for use in motorcycles, boats, and off-road vehicles at Crutchfield
  3. Rears: Kenwood KFC-1066S Sport Series 4" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield
Please give me your thoughts on these choices. I'll take a look at your suggestions too. This is just what I found on Crutchfield.
 
If you can't afford a 4 channel amplifier I would be saving up some more because in order to really get what you want out of that vehicle you should do it otherwise you will end up being disappointed and going to add it in anyways.

Personally I am not impressed with that lower Hertz stuff. Sounds too harsh to me when playing. And Kicker nope and especially not a 2-way setup. You really want components for up front with them running off a 4 channel amplifier and the rears something simple running off the head unit.

As long as you don't want to play CD's it looks decent with a 6 channel 5 volt RCA setup on it. Personally I would step it up a notch or two and spend some extra money on it to get some better voltage RCA's out of it as well.


Also check out Sonicelectronix as well when buying a deck from them they send you free install stuff as well and any speakers you buy sometimes they throw in the adapters as well.

I would also put Metra or Stinger 9 Wire on your list 25-40 dollars for when you do a 4 channel amplifier. You can run it right back to the aftermarket harness and instead of those speaker wires going to the head unit they go to the stinger/metra 9 wire and also have a remote turn on wire as well.

If you send me a DM I can look up some stuff tomorrow night when I am not busy and you can get some choices and see what others think. Just need to know the actual budget as as we said 400-500 is going to be really tight for what you want to do. I would also consider a used amplifier and head unit as options.
 
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I helped a kid recently with a similar budget put a sub in his car. He already had a decent head unit, but he only had 300$ that his parents would let him spend. Ended up doing a cheap blaupunkt 12 inch sub and blaupunkt amplifier from Walmart, with some 6.5 inch skar speakers. We just ran the speakers off the head unit with no amp. Less than 300$ for sub, amp, speakers and amplifier kit. I built a quick sealed box for his sub for 50$ and he had still money left over. It wasn’t a bad sounding little setup honestly, and the cheapest system I’ve ever helped someone with. It was his first sound system and he was really happy with it. I would’ve put that same equipment in my car if I had a low budget, except maybe the speakers. In hindsight, I would’ve looked for some different front speakers other than skar, but they weren’t horrible for 50$.
 
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-175661-JVC-KD-T915BTS.html
Here is that HU again to view.
Does play CDs but cheaper on price and has everything you need for a great versatile HU for future expansions
The Cart price includes the Vehicle Wiring Harness and Dash kit. Apparently Sonic Electronix does not include these with the original price of buying the HU for that vehicle. I think Crutchfield will also for the more expensive HUs but not the cheaper ones for that particular vehicle that I could find and see.
 
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For the HU you only linked the cart which is different for different users...
I think I've decided against getting an amp (unless you guys think it would be worth it at my price point) and just upgrading the door speakers and HU. Here's what I'm thinking so far:
  1. HU: JVC KD-X370BTS Digital media receiver (does not play CDs) at Crutchfield
  2. Fronts: Hertz K 130 Uno Series 5-1/4" component speaker system at Crutchfield OR Kicker 42PSC654 6-1/2" 2-way speakers (4-ohm) for use in motorcycles, boats, and off-road vehicles at Crutchfield
  3. Rears: Kenwood KFC-1066S Sport Series 4" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield
Please give me your thoughts on these choices. I'll take a look at your suggestions too. This is just what I found on Crutchfield.
For the Front stage/ Front speakers.. The Hertz sound good for what they are.. I have a set of these in 6.5 and a set of Coax. I also have a set of Polk MM 6.5s and a set of the 5.25s that Ive sent a link to.. and Of all Id recommend the Polk 5.25s off of HU power or as well as being amplified for your needs. They do well off HU power, but so much better with an amplifier as the majority of all aftermarket speakers that I could find within the Budget. CDT make some really Nice shallow mount speakers of which are well out of your budget that I did not recommend. The Kenwood speakers for the rear are pretty much the same if not less than a general OEM speaker due to the RMS rating and specs that I see.I wouldnt install less than a 40-60 rms speaker for the rears even off of HU power to keep them from Clipping and or over powering from volume nominal listening levels. Kicker speakers are just not what they used to be since the 90s in my opinion.They just are not decent SQ material speakers that they used to be prized at in the earlier days.They can get loud but very little SQ effects.I do like theyre 1" and 3/4" KS Tweeters as they can get loud and do great with power to keep up with a heavy sub stage.Just My 0.02 cents . An amplifier will be more beneficial on your speakers and filter the distortion that the majority of radios/ HUs will not and will only provide a max of Maybe , maybe,up to 13 watts Rms of clean power. given.For the 100 rms speakers up front.. You can even put 50 watts RMS of amplified power on them and it would be Night and Day experiences and performance from HU power alone.
 
I mean.. Buy what yu can now for what you have to spend/ budget wise, and get pretty decent gear and buy a little at a time when you can. Buying used amplifiers is a great Money saver also if you find a seller with a good reputation. I have older amplifiers that I sell, that are pretty clean and I can cut you a deal on a great amplifier that will perform very well if not cleaner SQ than most of todays amplifiers .If you want new .. its going to be a hunt within the budget you have and may get less quality than a good used amplifier at times. The majority of new amplifiers are more efficient than the older Class A/B, but lack quality control/ Cookie Cutter amplifiers I call them, and not made in the Good Ole USA any more
 
Mate, if you get an amp with built in crossovers, your stock speakers will even sound much better. I would advise to buy a 4 channel amp, and run the front stage with the front channels and bridge the rear to run a single 4 ohm, subwoofer. Set your highpass on the front speakers to 80hz and the subwoofer from 80hz below and your system should sound sweet as!
 
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