Help me figure out my MECA classifacation

Yeah, they are kind of Off but I have seen some people pull some serious current threw not a lot of fusing
Heres an example of a way I've seen MECA fusing done before:

2d0yole.jpg
I used to have that amp. I miss that amp.

ok, I guess 160 amps it is.

I will have to get very ******* creative here.

When I first got these amps. I still had my T5-12's in there and they where still rear firing. I hooked up two 70 amp breakers on one amp and ran it.. Those popped and it wasnt even full tilt. and it wasnt even 4k, it was around 2300. it got loud cus those subs and all, but these new subs, there gonna want POWA....

 
if I am wrong, please clue me in. no harm ment to anyone or MECA, just need to get it right. thanks. Thanks pieper88.

this is what confuses me

{(Total Amperage of In-line Fusing X 10) + Woofer Cone Surface Area} = Pressure Class #

Please consult Division Rules for complete definitions.

Examples:

30 amps + 2-12 = 526

40 amps + 1-12 = 513

30 amps + 1-15 = 477

50 amps + 1-18 = 754

50 amps + 1-12^2 = 644

50 amps + 2-12 = 726

100 amps + 1-15 = 1177

100 amps + 2-18 = 1509

50 amps + 2-10^2 = 700

100 amps + 2-12 = 1226

200 amps + 2-15 = 2353

200 amps + 2-18 = 2509

50 amps + 3-10 = 736

200 amps + 2-12 = 2226

400 amps + 4-15 = 4707

400 amps + 4-18 = 5018

 
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Well you are going to be in modified if you cut anything, with 2 - 12's that gives you 226 sqin of cone area , yall have already established that , it seems the only thing you are confused about is the fusing , so I will try to explain the best i can,

First SPL is all about testing fusing is no different , the fuses will pass more than there rating for a short period of time before they pop , so don't get caught up on the ratings that much , and different styles and brands will last longer and pass more current, so testing is key to making it work.

second M1-M3 is 12v style batteries, M4-M5 is 16v, and M1 is one fuse M2 is 2 fuses, M3 is 3 fuses maximum etc.

To give an example I run 1 -150amp fuse in M3, on 2 x Atomic AT3000.1's @.70 DCR strapped with a rise around 1.5 ohm, and I don't pop the fuse on a burp unless something goes wrong.

hope this helps, sorry if I confused you even more

And competitive in M3 is low to mid 150's in the TN area in AZ it is probably much lower, there are some heavy hitters in M5 ( Walled up Astro's )

 
Well you are going to be in modified if you cut anything, with 2 - 12's that gives you 226 sqin of cone area , yall have already established that , it seems the only thing you are confused about is the fusing , so I will try to explain the best i can,First SPL is all about testing fusing is no different , the fuses will pass more than there rating for a short period of time before they pop , so don't get caught up on the ratings that much , and different styles and brands will last longer and pass more current, so testing is key to making it work.

second M1-M3 is 12v style batteries, M4-M5 is 16v, and M1 is one fuse M2 is 2 fuses, M3 is 3 fuses maximum etc.

To give an example I run 1 -150amp fuse in M3, on 2 x Atomic AT3000.1's @.70 DCR strapped with a rise around 1.5 ohm, and I don't pop the fuse on a burp unless something goes wrong.

hope this helps, sorry if I confused you even more

And competitive in M3 is low to mid 150's in the TN area in AZ it is probably much lower, there are some heavy hitters in M5 ( Walled up Astro's )
ok so if you where me, what would you do? I mean straight as it is, what class am I and if I try for M4, what fuses and how to run them

 
I would shoot for M3 , if you want to run M4 , I would personally run 16V, and you just need to get an assortment of ANLs and holders and have at it, ( and that is 1 - 150 amp fuse for both amps) , I would try using just the one fuse at first trying different things to hold the fuse , and yield the best results, it helps clamping and seeing where you draw is and how much current is going out, etc.

you can also run up to 3 fuses in series in M3 with only the last counting toward your fuse rating ( ex. 2 300 amp ANLs with your last being a 150 amp, only the last 150 will be counted ) I have seen alot of guys run a 300 ANL then a small 40 or 60 AGU (glass barrel fuse) in the lower classes( S2,M2 ).

And most guys have better luck with cheaper fuses, Audiopipe,XXX, Install bay,etc.

 
I would shoot for M3 , if you want to run M4 , I would personally run 16V, and you just need to get an assortment of ANLs and holders and have at it, ( and that is 1 - 150 amp fuse for both amps) , I would try using just the one fuse at first trying different things to hold the fuse , and yield the best results, it helps clamping and seeing where you draw is and how much current is going out, etc.you can also run up to 3 fuses in series in M3 with only the last counting toward your fuse rating ( ex. 2 300 amp ANLs with your last being a 150 amp, only the last 150 will be counted ) I have seen alot of guys run a 300 ANL then a small 40 or 60 AGU (glass barrel fuse) in the lower classes( S2,M2 ).

And most guys have better luck with cheaper fuses, Audiopipe,XXX, Install bay,etc.
really?...idk about that, I thought it counted all the fuses between the amp and battery

x2 on the audiopipe fuses, 150 lasted 5+ burps and looked perfect

 
really?...idk about that, I thought it counted all the fuses between the amp and battery
x2 on the audiopipe fuses, 150 lasted 5+ burps and looked perfect
Yep pretty sure as long as they are run in series , I thought the same thing , we had to ask to get clarification on it, but they do count as far as the number of fuses you run

 
MECA rule book Section C line 2

Only inline fusing for subwoofer amplifier(s) will be calculated in the formula for qualifing members systems. If multiple fuses are run in series only the fuse closest to the amplifier(s) will be counted

 
so if I use one 250 amp fuse I should be able to stay in M4. then I only have to beat a 146.9

surface area of two 12's is 1357.168

+250*10=2500

so 1357.168 + 2500 = 3857.168 ? M4 class?

 
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