Help me design a system for my street rod!

[trophyman]

I need some advice on building a system for my street rod. The car is a 1939 Chevy Sedan, lots of room inside. I already have a Pioneer AVIC-8000NEX. Not sure if I should use 6x9's on the package shelf, put them in boxes?? I like some boom, so not sure if I need a sub or if speakers alone are enough. Would like to keep speakers (6) and amp under $600.

There is no interior in the car now so anything is possible.

Thanks

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[hispls 5,000+ posts]

IMO speakers in the rear sound awful. I'd suggest looking into a pair of decent components somewhere up front and a small single sub. Otherwise 6X9's are generally pretty loud, and I'd look into Alpine Type R (no lower lines!), or look into Infinity/JBL product line. They're all good for the money. A quality pair of components in the front + a small subwoofer in the trunk would be far better sounding than just jamming in speakers wherever you can fit.

You might consider building some fiberglass pods or enclosures for the components so that you don't have to cut any factory panels and keep things minimally invasive. If you get in over your head look up Parish at Ocala Car Audio (Next to Detroit Customs), he has been in the business a very long time. I don't expect his prices are great but they put out top notch work and stand behind what they do.

 

[trophyman]

IMO speakers in the rear sound awful. I'd suggest looking into a pair of decent components somewhere up front and a small single sub. Otherwise 6X9's are generally pretty loud, and I'd look into Alpine Type R (no lower lines!), or look into Infinity/JBL product line. They're all good for the money. A quality pair of components in the front + a small subwoofer in the trunk would be far better sounding than just jamming in speakers wherever you can fit.
You might consider building some fiberglass pods or enclosures for the components so that you don't have to cut any factory panels and keep things minimally invasive. If you get in over your head look up Parish at Ocala Car Audio (Next to Detroit Customs), he has been in the business a very long time. I don't expect his prices are great but they put out top notch work and stand behind what they do.

Thanks for the reply. Can you please explain what component speakers are? I actually know somebody that works at Ocala Car Audio, although I'm not sure it's still called that. Also, my car is currently at Detroit City Customs. The owner, Derrick, is a personal friend of mine.

The car is already completely covered in Dynamat with Dylaliner coming before interior. I have Polk Audio in my SUV and they sound very good. Are that still a decent speaker? Any advice as to an Amp (brand and size)

THANKS

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[hispls 5,000+ posts]

That's a great looking car! Ocala Car Audio is RIGHT NEXT DOOR to Detroit Customs. The place at the corner of Pine and SR40 is a different store now... they may do great work but I can't vouch for them, but I can definitely vouch for Parish and OCA.

Components are the separate midrange + tweeter + crossover. They are 99 times out of 100 better than coaxial style speakers in the same brand/line/price range.

Simplest amp choice would be "5 channel" like this: JBL GTO 5EZ 5 Channel Class AB D 1935 Watt Car Audio Stereo Amplifier 1935W Amp 050036313285 | eBay You can sometimes find some steals on JBL/INFINITY amps and speakers on eBay from the JBL/Harmon eBay store, they sell a lot of refurbs and closeouts for short money.

I've had good luck with JBL/Infinity products, but I know there's other 5 and 6 channel amps that should work for you. Honestly I haven't messed with Polk since the very early 90's when they stopped making them in the USA so I have no idea if they're good or not anymore. I know for budget stuff that performs as advertised JBL/Infinity, Alpine (type R and better), and Kicker are all pretty solid. There's probably others that someone else can chime in about but there's a LOT of junk out there so be sure to check back here before you throw money away on something you'll regret.

Anyway, keep me posted, I'm in Ocala area every winter from like Thanksgiving through Valentine's day and I'd love to check that car out in person next winter.

 

[trophyman]

That's a great looking car! Ocala Car Audio is RIGHT NEXT DOOR to Detroit Customs. The place at the corner of Pine and SR40 is a different store now... they may do great work but I can't vouch for them, but I can definitely vouch for Parish and OCA.
Components are the separate midrange + tweeter + crossover. They are 99 times out of 100 better than coaxial style speakers in the same brand/line/price range.

Simplest amp choice would be "5 channel" like this: JBL GTO 5EZ 5 Channel Class AB D 1935 Watt Car Audio Stereo Amplifier 1935W Amp 050036313285 | eBay You can sometimes find some steals on JBL/INFINITY amps and speakers on eBay from the JBL/Harmon eBay store, they sell a lot of refurbs and closeouts for short money.

I've had good luck with JBL/Infinity products, but I know there's other 5 and 6 channel amps that should work for you. Honestly I haven't messed with Polk since the very early 90's when they stopped making them in the USA so I have no idea if they're good or not anymore. I know for budget stuff that performs as advertised JBL/Infinity, Alpine (type R and better), and Kicker are all pretty solid. There's probably others that someone else can chime in about but there's a LOT of junk out there so be sure to check back here before you throw money away on something you'll regret.

Anyway, keep me posted, I'm in Ocala area every winter from like Thanksgiving through Valentine's day and I'd love to check that car out in person next winter.

Thanks so much for your help. SNOWBIRD huh lol. Can you answer a question that has been bugging me? I see cars with the sub in the trunk, and it's mounted all sorts of ways. Some facing down, facing up, facing the rear/front. Sometimes it looks like the speaker is installed backwards in a box, the back of the speaker is all you see. Can you explain this?

Thanks again.

BTW--Isn't Valentine's day a little early to be heading back to MASS? Specially this year

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Thanks so much for your help. SNOWBIRD huh lol. Can you answer a question that has been bugging me? I see cars with the sub in the trunk, and it's mounted all sorts of ways. Some facing down, facing up, facing the rear/front. Sometimes it looks like the speaker is installed backwards in a box, the back of the speaker is qll you see. Can you explain this?
Thanks again.

Florida is a fine place to visit but I don't want to live there. A couple months to visit friends and family then I'm ready to return to the snow.

As far as mounting the sub inverted (so that the magnet and basket are exposed) that's generally purely cosmetic. For which direction the sub and ports aim that is typically a matter of trial and error and can make a pretty dramatic difference in output and frequency response. I'm guessing you could get away with a single 10 or 12" woofer in a small-ish box, with a smaller box you should be able to play around with position and direction of things yourself to see what sounds best to you.

 

[trophyman]

Florida is a fine place to visit but I don't want to live there. A couple months to visit friends and family then I'm ready to return to the snow.
As far as mounting the sub inverted (so that the magnet and basket are exposed) that's generally purely cosmetic. For which direction the sub and ports aim that is typically a matter of trial and error and can make a pretty dramatic difference in output and frequency response. I'm guessing you could get away with a single 10 or 12" woofer in a small-ish box, with a smaller box you should be able to play around with position and direction of things yourself to see what sounds best to you.

Yeah, I visit home (Maryland) from time to time, but having been the director of operations for the snow removal for a large county, I've had my fill of snow lol. When you say "small-ish", how big for say a 10" sub?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Yeah, I visit home (Maryland) from time to time, but having been the director of operations for the snow removal for a large county, I've had my fill of snow lol. When you say "small-ish", how big for say a 10" sub?

I'd expect you could get by nicely with under 3 cubic feet gross volume for a box for just about any 10" woofer. DO NOT skimp on box volume or port area. If you build a good box and do it right the first time it should out-last the woofer itself. If that's too much space you still have options but that's the ballpark I'd start with. "Space makes bass" so for good low extension and high efficiency keeping it on the large side is best.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

It would depend on how loud you really want to get and what music you like. If you like a lot of low vibrational bass then go with ported. However if you are low in space, you can do 2 efficient 12s in a sealed box in 2.5 to 3 cubic feet also and it will sound good on most music and get decent volume out of it. Not as much super low(20 to 35hz) impacts but it will be louder on normal music genres in the 40hz and up range

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

It would depend on how loud you really want to get and what music you like. If you like a lot of low vibrational bass then go with ported. However if you are low in space, you can do 2 efficient 12s in a sealed box in 2.5 to 3 cubic feet also and it will sound good on most music and get decent volume out of it. Not as much super low(20 to 35hz) impacts but it will be louder on normal music genres in the 40hz and up range

Clearly you have virtually no experience with ported boxes.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Clearly you have virtually no experience with ported boxes.

dude, I normally go ported anytime I can but i know there's limits to what a single 10 can output on fairly low power. A ported 10 vs two sealed 12s, thats a giant difference in cone area (78.5 vs 226.8), an efficient box can only do so much before the woofer is maxed out on its output potential. cone area is not everything but it sure as hell makes a big difference. A single 12 ported vs 2 12s sealed is a better matchup but that would require more space for port area and displacement.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

dude, I normally go ported anytime I can but i know there's limits to what a single 10 can output on fairly low power. A ported 10 vs two sealed 12s, thats a giant difference in cone area (78.5 vs 226.8), an efficient box can only do so much before the woofer is maxed out on its output potential. cone area is not everything but it sure as hell makes a big difference. A single 12 ported vs 2 12s sealed is a better matchup but that would require more space for port area and displacement.

DISPLACEMENT is important, so all things being equal, a 225$ 10" in a well built ported box would likely be as good as or better than a pair of 100$ 12's in a too-small sealed box. Also ported boxes not being able to play higher frequencies is 24 karat bullshit. Assuming OP intends to play normal music there's absolutely no reason a decent quality 10" would run into mechanical issues on 500W or so.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

its not mechanical issues, its just overall output, 2 12s sealed in 3 cubes is plenty of space. Two efficient 12s in a sealed can get just as loud as one efficient 10 in a ported and the two DO peak differently if you tune in the normal 28-35hz range. Its not wheter the ported can play higher notes because it definitely can, its the sealed will emphasize on them a lot more while the ported can be tuned to have a flat smooth response but that means a lot less of a peak in the upper notes. (unless you tune 36-40s but it starts getting peaky)

It really depends on what he wants. If he wants a smooth linear sound, then the 10 in a ported will give him 30-80hz response if the box is designed right. However there are some people that really like those fatter midbass notes based on their music preferences. both will play the 40-50hz range fine and loud anyways.

Just saying 2 12s sealed will be a viable option just as much as a 10 depending on his preferences..

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

A 10 ported with a strong mid bass up front will out do most average setups. I like the idea of single better subs myself.