Help!!! Just installed my RL-P, something is very wrong!!!

[stones 10+ year member]

"so maybe i do need to go ported then."

Duh!!

 

[blackgeltabs 5,000+ posts]

Start with direct battery wiring and making sure you have 14v on the amps and on the remote wire. Turn it up and also take volatge measurements to see what your voltage is dropping too when the bass hits.

Get this car checked out by someone who knows there stuff.

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

"so maybe i do need to go ported then."
Duh!!

Well i just figured sending 1200 watts to this sub would make Earth Shaking bass, but i guess not. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/redface.gif.62fdbfe1a101588a808c4cff71bcb942.gif After i get the wiring checked out by my buddy tommorow, if nothing is fixed, I guess nothing is broken and my standards are just too high for this particular box setup.

 

[stones 10+ year member]

Well i just figured sending 1200 watts to this sub would make Earth Shaking bass, but i guess not. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/redface.gif.62fdbfe1a101588a808c4cff71bcb942.gif After i get the wiring checked out by my buddy tommorow, if nothing is fixed, I guess nothing is broken and my standards are just too high for this particular box setup.

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[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

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Is it possible that my standards are just too high for this particular sub? Because i thought my old 250 watt Infinity setup was loud, so my standards aren't too high. I dunno why i am not satisfied with this.

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

The main problem here is that I simply can't tell if the sub is fine and is sounding exactly the way it should, or if there is something wrong. Maybe i just expected too much out of the sub and should have gotten a more powerful subwoofer with this amp?

 

[stones 10+ year member]

The infinity liked sealed boxes better then the RL-p does, its that simple.

You have quadrupled your power and added an extra 8 mm of xmax, and the sub is no better that the old one, why?.

Each sub has different characteristics in different enclosures, what works for one sub may not work for another.

The sealed box reccomendations for your woofer are for the flattest possible RTA curve (best SQ if you will) but the best sounding (to us regular folk)set ups are no where near flat, they usually have a nice fat hump in the lower frequency range.

A larger box or a ported box especially will help you acheive this.

The wires are important but to my experience smaller power wires to the amp just hurt the transient response of the woofer as the peak current demands of the amp are not met, making the bass a little sloppy the actual maximum output is still there so I am strongly favoring the box as the root of the mess.

 

[stones 10+ year member]

Another piont, when you switch from a small sealed to a ported you don't lose "SQ"

that term is thown around way too much around here.

What you do is unflatten your RTA curve.

SQ to a comp judge is a completely different thing then SQ to you.

You tune until its sounds right to YOU, changing to a ported box is the way to tune it to your personnal tastes as you can adjust the tuning frequency of the box(where the hump will peak) your box is giving you a really small hump up in higher frequencys a larger hump in the lower frequncys will put a big grin on your face.

 

[stones 10+ year member]

And another

You wont need a new amp, If you have an amp that is way too big for the speaker you are actually better off then having an amp that is too small.

The 9.1 will not put out 1200 watts all the time.

Think of it as RPMs of an engine, just because the engine can rev at 9000 rpm doesnt mean that thats what it will rev at all the time, it is throttle(volume) dependant.

You can reduce the maximum potential output of an amp simply by turning the gain sensitivity down.

 

[allenzo 10+ year member]

Also the Rl-p was not meant to be a spl sub. It was meant to sound good and loud. So It will produce spl even though that is not what is was built for. I do not know how it sounds sealed but i know there is spl potential vented. The sub will handle 900 watts plus. I think someone even put 2500 on it for a little bit of time.

 

[jlaine 10+ year member]

The main problem here is that I simply can't tell if the sub is fine and is sounding exactly the way it should, or if there is something wrong. Maybe i just expected too much out of the sub and should have gotten a more powerful subwoofer with this amp?

Meet up with someone in your area and spend some time listening...

Should be some reputable forum members from either here or other forums that can help...

 

[60ndown 10+ year member]

What should i check specifically with the wiring? And I don't mean to offend anyone, i am just very upset and frusterated. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif I want insane SPL and good SQ, so maybe i do need to go ported then.

for "insane" you need 10,000 watts and 9 more rl-ps'.

you aint gonna win the worlds spl record with 1 amp n 1 sub!, but you can get fine sq at good levels IF you knew what to do!

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

for "insane" you need 10,000 watts and 9 more rl-ps'.you aint gonna win the worlds spl record with 1 amp n 1 sub!, but you can get fine sq at good levels IF you knew what to do!

Well, i heard someone's system that had 2 older RE subs in his car (the older mid model ones) and that was insane, i could barely breathe when his subs were hitting, thats how i want mine. His also sounded good too.

 

[6three6mafia6 10+ year member]

im finding a LOT of things interesting,

1)why would somebody recommend the BREAK in of sub in these situations? the people are saying it dosent sound loud, a broken in sub isnt gona give him an extra 12db were it will become loud. Subs will not gain 3db after being broken in.

2)Why the hell are you giving a sub 1200 rms if its rated 600, i dont care who says what , you really got to stop listening to people and look at the drivers numbers obviusly engineers and designers arent going to lie to you and if you think people know more than them thats you.

3)I HIGHLY doubt that going adding .35 cubes is going to fix this problem, go get some pollyfill and you will see. And you need to go to the god **** website and find out the information on the subwoofer, it dosent make sense to GUESS randon enclosure volumes, again to the website it will tell you what enclosures that sub will work in, again engieers and designers are not gona LIE to you .

 

[ls1pimp 10+ year member]

im finding a LOT of things interesting,
1)why would somebody recommend the BREAK in of sub in these situations? the people are saying it dosent sound loud, a broken in sub isnt gona give him an extra 12db were it will become loud. Subs will not gain 3db after being broken in.

2)Why the hell are you giving a sub 1200 rms if its rated 600, i dont care who says what , you really got to stop listening to people and look at the drivers numbers. Up to this day i still dont understand why people promote sending this sub or any sub in general consideribly more than what its rated.

3)I HIGHLY doubt that going adding .35 cubes is going to fix this problem, go get some pollyfill and you will see.

Becuase i was told by pleanty of people that the sub would handle the power perfectly, but im really having second doubts. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif I honestly don't think the sub is broken, and there probably isn't anything wrong with it, i just figured it was going to be a monster sub, but maybe its not. I was looking for a beastly sub that would laught at me if i through 1200 watts at it, and i don't really know if I feel comfortable sending the sub this much power. And when the owner tells me he doesn't reccomend sending it that much power, that makes me nervous too. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif Maybe ill sell this one to someone with less power to give it, its only been used for 3 days anyway. I really don't wanna break it or anything.