Help!!! Just installed my RL-P, something is very wrong!!!

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But anyways if this sub doesn't work well in 1 cube with that kind of power. Why would SS recommend that box size? Just curious cuz my buddy has limited space and was thinking of doing a 12 in a pretty small box, about 1^3 after dis. with about 1k watts.
The RL-p12 will work in a 1 cu ft net sealed box fairly well. I have a customer who has used his in a 0.55 cu ft net sealed box and loved it (though he admits that overall and especially low-end output was lessened). It's a game of give or take, are you aiming for the flattest frequency response, or for maximum low-end extension, for a peaked output, for overall maximum output, or any combination thereof?

From my understanding, the enclosure in question here is a pre-fabricated 1.03 cu ft internal volume sealed box. After driver displacement, this will be closer to 0.83-85 cu ft net volume, which judging from experience would certainly reduce the output capacity of the RL-p12. As I've stated, 1.25 - 1.35 cu ft sealed (or 1.5 cu ft net vented @ 34 Hz) in my opinion, is the sweet spot for this driver. It will extend low and maintain smooth output over a wide range of frequencies. Going smaller, you may be afforded a flatter response curve, but you will not maintain the same low-frequency extension that so many people in this hobby desire.

I strongly recommend that anyone using a SoundSplinter driver email me first to discuss what type of enclosure you plan on using. I'll do my best to guide you in the direction that I feel best suits your application - though of course it is important for the user to gain an understanding of the process so that they can make their own decisions and decide what is best for themselves (afterall, I can only guess as to what someone I don't know may really want).

PS. I will be updating the website over the next week in order to reflect more detailed enclosure recommendations //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
After living with my RL-P/ nine.1 for a few days I am disapointed with the output as well. I know all my gains/wiring are set correctly. The sub has great s.q. but doesn't have good output at all. My JL w3 with 600 watts was louder. I may end up selling this sub. It only sounds good with rap played at high volume levels....kick drums have no kick. It's hard to explain but I would need twice the output it has now to be happy. Maybe it's defective? Back to the drawing board.
What box was the W3 in? out of curiosity...

 
"It only sounds good with rap played at high volume levels....kick drums have no kick."

weird that ,i have had my rl-p 12 running off 600 phoenix gold watts in a seaked at 1.3 cubic for a couple weeks and now i.b. for a week. the kick drums having no kick i find to be a pleasant thing,im not saying there is NO kick but the way its deliverd next to the bass is very smooth, my rl-p plays very low, even at lower listenig volumes, it does sound very different to any sub ive ever had in a car, it has the same quality sound as a good sub at home? its not a boom boom sub (but im sure in the right box and the right amp it could be made to sound that way) its a very different sounding sub, very accurate and musical, no slop or fatigue.If i were you,i would put the srl-p to one side for now, get another "louder" sub, and when you get bored of listening to the "louder" sub, get the rl-p out again and reconsider what sq really is?

 
"It only sounds good with rap played at high volume levels....kick drums have no kick."
weird that ,i have had my rl-p 12 running off 600 phoenix gold watts in a seaked at 1.3 cubic for a couple weeks and now i.b. for a week. the kick drums having no kick i find to be a pleasant thing,im not saying there is NO kick but the way its deliverd next to the bass is very smooth, my rl-p plays very low, even at lower listenig volumes, it does sound very different to any sub ive ever had in a car, it has the same quality sound as a good sub at home? its not a boom boom sub (but im sure in the right box and the right amp it could be made to sound that way) its a very different sounding sub, very accurate and musical, no slop or fatigue.If i were you,i would put the srl-p to one side for now, get another "louder" sub, and when you get bored of listening to the "louder" sub, get the rl-p out again and reconsider what sq really is?
So in order to get slightly better SQ i have to sacrifice a buttload of SPL? My friend has 2 W3's running off some shitty crunch amp in a prefab sealed box, and his setup hits harder and has better SQ than my RL-P and Nine.1. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif The sound quality is good on my sub, but i have pleanty of friends who have much lesser setups then me and their sound quality equals mine, and their output destroys mine.

 
"It only sounds good with rap played at high volume levels....kick drums have no kick."
weird that ,i have had my rl-p 12 running off 600 phoenix gold watts in a seaked at 1.3 cubic for a couple weeks and now i.b. for a week. the kick drums having no kick i find to be a pleasant thing,im not saying there is NO kick but the way its deliverd next to the bass is very smooth, my rl-p plays very low, even at lower listenig volumes, it does sound very different to any sub ive ever had in a car, it has the same quality sound as a good sub at home? its not a boom boom sub (but im sure in the right box and the right amp it could be made to sound that way) its a very different sounding sub, very accurate and musical, no slop or fatigue.If i were you,i would put the srl-p to one side for now, get another "louder" sub, and when you get bored of listening to the "louder" sub, get the rl-p out again and reconsider what sq really is?

You are correct, it has great s.q. but for the power I'm giving it I thought the output would be greater than a cheap JLw3 12. The volume is seriously lacking here. Playing rock music has little output. Maybe it will get better with break in but I guess this isn't what I was looking for.

 
The thread starter says at normal gain levels, his sub is inaudible... having a smaller than recommended sealed box will normally make peak output much greater, at the expense of low end extension. So smaller box = more peak output/louder... bigger box = more lowend extension, less peaky. Having even a very small sealed box shouldn't make his sub seem quieter, it should make his sub seem louder except with less of that earth-shaking low bass.

Another guy says his W3 in a prefab sealed was louder than his RL-P sealed... the RL-P has a much greater excursion capability than the W3, it should be much louder. I'm thinking that other problems are involved... whats the point of buying this 25mm xmax SQL sub if it can't take a 16mm xmax W3 in a sealed box?

Just my opinion...

 
The thread starter says at normal gain levels, his sub is inaudible... having a smaller than recommended sealed box will normally make peak output much greater, at the expense of low end extension. So smaller box = more peak output/louder... bigger box = more lowend extension, less peaky. Having even a very small sealed box shouldn't make his sub seem quieter, it should make his sub seem louder except with less of that earth-shaking low bass.
Another guy says his W3 in a prefab sealed was louder than his RL-P sealed... the RL-P has a much greater excursion capability than the W3, it should be much louder. I'm thinking that other problems are involved... whats the point of buying this 25mm xmax SQL sub if it can't take a 16mm xmax W3 in a sealed box?

Just my opinion...
I dunno, my point exactly. I don't think buying a new box will magically solve my problems. I was told this sub would hit extremely hard and would have great sound quality, and as of now its only doing half of that. Problems involved or not, i have no clue why it is this way.

 
And don't get me wrong, the sub gets loud, very loud in fact, but the high SPL and strong feelings of bass are just not there, it doesn't move any more air than my Perfect did, and if i try to push it it begins to clip heavily.

 
The thread starter says at normal gain levels, his sub is inaudible... having a smaller than recommended sealed box will normally make peak output much greater, at the expense of low end extension. So smaller box = more peak output/louder... bigger box = more lowend extension, less peaky. Having even a very small sealed box shouldn't make his sub seem quieter, it should make his sub seem louder except with less of that earth-shaking low bass.
Another guy says his W3 in a prefab sealed was louder than his RL-P sealed... the RL-P has a much greater excursion capability than the W3, it should be much louder. I'm thinking that other problems are involved... whats the point of buying this 25mm xmax SQL sub if it can't take a 16mm xmax W3 in a sealed box?

Just my opinion...
So what your saying is you should know what your doing before you throw down $500 on a system and not to expect that since you threw down that much money the system should sound outstanding no matter what you put it in or hook it up to?

 
So what your saying is you should know what your doing before you throw down $500 on a system and not to expect that since you threw down that much money the system should sound outstanding no matter what you put it in or hook it up to?

No, im not against getting a box (even though i have no idea how to build a box nor the carpentry skills, nor do i wanna drop hundreds on getting one built) but i honestly don't know if even then this sub will have the SPL i am looking for.

 
So in order to get slightly better SQ i have to sacrifice a buttload of SPL?

NO

My friend has 2 W3's running off some shitty crunch amp in a prefab sealed box, and his setup hits harder and has better SQ than my RL-P and Nine.1.

IF YOU REALLY BELIEVE THAT THEN SWAP YOUR GEAR FOR HIS?

The sound quality is good on my sub, but i have pleanty of friends who have much lesser setups then me and their sound quality equals mine, and their output destroys mine.

SURE THARE ARE LOUD SYSTEMS OUT THERE, BUT DAILY DRIVING WE DONT LISTEN AT 140DB YOU WOULD GO DEAF AND HAVE HEADACHES ALL THE TIME!(UNLESS THAT IS WHAT YOU HAVE BEEN DOING IN WHICH CASE YOU PROBABLY ARE A BIT DEAF WHICH WOULD EXPLAIN WHY NO-ONE HAS BEEN ABLE TO HELP YOU, MAYBE YOU WILL NEVER KNOW WHAT A GOOD SQ SYSTEM SOUNDS LIKE???-DOOMED TO AUDIOBAHN FOR LIFE?? )? SET UP YOUR CAR SO IT SOUNDS, SWEET AND ENJOY DRIVEING WITH QUALITY SOUNDS.

 
And don't get me wrong, the sub gets loud, very loud in fact, but the high SPL and strong feelings of bass are just not there, it doesn't move any more air than my Perfect did, and if i try to push it it begins to clip heavily.
Well then that changes things, that would make sense... you telling us the sub is inaudible didn't make sense to me. What you are telling me now is exactly what I would expect. When you say "it doesn't push any more air than my Perfect did"... you are basically telling me that you are craving more low end extension. Get to building that bigger box //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Edit: I still can't explain the mishaps of the guy who can't take a sealed W3 though... thats //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif ...

 
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