Help choosing potentiometer

vinter93

CarAudio.com Newbie
Hello everyone!
I'm building a Subwoofer level control knob for my car audio system.
However, I'm not sure which pot value to use, I've seen that PAC LC-1 uses a B50K pot, but I've also seen people complaining that it is too sensitive for their system, it's either full volume or completely off.
The preout values from my headunit are 2500mV / 10kOhm.
My guess is that the B50k will be too much for my headunit values, should I go with another pot?
Thanks in advance.
 
These are actually my favorite knobs. A dude did a big review on a facebook group years ago and this one won. I hated my LC1s so much I gave them away even new in box. The EFX has been great for the 5 years I have used them. No dead spots like the LC1 and very smooth. I'm not sure what POT they are using for them though.

 
These are actually my favorite knobs. A dude did a big review on a facebook group years ago and this one won. I hated my LC1s so much I gave them away even new in box. The EFX has been great for the 5 years I have used them. No dead spots like the LC1 and very smooth. I'm not sure what POT they are using for them though.

How much rotation of the knob from full off to full on?
 
A linear pot will have inconsistent jumps in volume to the human ear when used for volume control, especially at the top end of the pot Logarithmic pots are better for volume control. They taper resistance so you don't get huge jumps in volume with one click of the knob towards the top end of the pot volume. The perception of the human ear will perceive it as a much smoother and consistent transition between clicks using a log pot instead of a lin pot.
 
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A linear pot will have inconsistent jumps in volume to the human ear when used for volume control, especially at the top end of the pot Logarithmic pots are better for volume control. They taper resistance so you don't get huge jumps in volume with one click of the knob towards the top end of the pot volume. The perception of the human ear will perceive it as a much smoother and consistent transition between clicks using a log pot instead of a lin pot.
I can get a logarithmic pot, no problem. However, I'm not sure if I should go with 50k or less. Maybe 20k would be more adequate?
 
A linear pot will have inconsistent jumps in volume to the human ear when used for volume control, especially at the top end of the pot Logarithmic pots are better for volume control. They taper resistance so you don't get huge jumps in volume with one click of the knob towards the top end of the pot volume. The perception of the human ear will perceive it as a much smoother and consistent transition between clicks using a log pot instead of a lin pot.
I can get a logarithmic pot, no problem. However, I'm not sure if I should go with 50k or less. Maybe 20k would be more adequate?

Does pot mean potentiometer here? Do you have any info on the physical electrical differences between these?
 
A linear pot will have inconsistent jumps in volume to the human ear when used for volume control, especially at the top end of the pot Logarithmic pots are better for volume control. They taper resistance so you don't get huge jumps in volume with one click of the knob towards the top end of the pot volume. The perception of the human ear will perceive it as a much smoother and consistent transition between
Does pot mean potentiometer here? Do you have any info on the physical electrical differences between these?
dude...
 
Does pot mean potentiometer here? Do you have any info on the physical electrical differences between these?
The resistance in a linear pot varies between clicks at a constant rate. The logarithmic pot has less resistance between clicks at one end than the other. The linear pot will turn up the volume too fast at the beginning of the rotation and by the time you get a little over halfway you’re already at full volume basically. The logarithmic pot has tapered resistance so that it doesn’t have such drastic jumps with each click while turning the wiper.
592E8F81-EF76-4E2D-9701-C1E60B58B0B6.jpeg
 
The resistance in a linear pot varies between clicks at a constant rate. The logarithmic pot has less resistance between clicks at one end than the other. The linear pot will turn up the volume too fast at the beginning of the rotation and by the time you get a little over halfway you’re already at full volume basically. The logarithmic pot has tapered resistance so that it doesn’t have such drastic jumps with each click while turning the wiper.
View attachment 35045

I know the difference between linear and log step, but what I mean is this: there's bass knobs that I’ve seen that mess with the quality of bass, and I was wondering how the different steps are done, exactly. There has to be some kind of internal changes to make the different voltage outputs. The amount of processing that a bass knob does, and whether it's powered or not, would seem to affect signal quality, potentially. I've seen in-line RCA bass knobs work, but really mess up signal quality, and even seemed to change some frequencies more than others. The bass knob would seemingly hinder the signal. I feel like there's a risk with in line bass knobs, where the signal gets changed or distorted as it makes it's way through the components of the bass knob.

I've seen that happen enough times that I'd very much opt for a high quality bass knob, and make sure it absolutely works. What I was wondering was: how is the signal voltage modified within the internal components or electrical flow through the bass knob between the two different types of bass knobs? And should you have powered bass knobs that are able to amplify the signal, due to that resistances inside of the bass knob? Idk, I guess I need to study the actual electrical wiring of the different types and how they step.

You know, I've seen wall light fixtures that have potentiometers as the light switch, and I'm sure many of you have, too. I've noticed my entire life that some of those switches make the lights actually make noise. I wonder if the same type of thing can happen with bass knobs, where distortion is added into the signal. You know, your house AC current is ~60 hz, so your halogens are energized at that cyclic rate, which you could hear, if it was sound being played by speaker. I can't hear halogens without a potentiometer, but I definitely know some potentiometers on halogen house lights can make them make noise, and some others seem not to do that. So, you have to get into the functioning of how one actually works, and how the internal components actually change the status of the voltage. That's what I'm wondering if anyone knows about.
 
I know the difference between linear and log step, but what I mean is this: there's bass knobs that I’ve seen that mess with the quality of bass, and I was wondering how the different steps are done, exactly. There has to be some kind of internal changes to make the different voltage outputs. The amount of processing that a bass knob does, and whether it's powered or not, would seem to affect signal quality, potentially. I've seen in-line RCA bass knobs work, but really mess up signal quality, and even seemed to change some frequencies more than others. The bass knob would seemingly hinder the signal. I feel like there's a risk with in line bass knobs, where the signal gets changed or distorted as it makes it's way through the components of the bass knob.

I've seen that happen enough times that I'd very much opt for a high quality bass knob, and make sure it absolutely works. What I was wondering was: how is the signal voltage modified within the internal components or electrical flow through the bass knob between the two different types of bass knobs? And should you have powered bass knobs that are able to amplify the signal, due to that resistances inside of the bass knob? Idk, I guess I need to study the actual electrical wiring of the different types and how they step.

You know, I've seen wall light fixtures that have potentiometers as the light switch, and I'm sure many of you have, too. I've noticed my entire life that some of those switches make the lights actually make noise. I wonder if the same type of thing can happen with bass knobs, where distortion is added into the signal. You know, your house AC current is ~60 hz, so your halogens are energized at that cyclic rate, which you could here, if it was sound. I can't hear halogens without a potentiometer, but I definitely know some potentiometers on halogen house lights can make them make noise, and some others seem not to do that. So, you have to get into the functioning of how one actually works, and how the internal components actually change the status of the voltage. That's what I'm wondering if anyone knows about.
There is more than one potentiometer in the in line before even adding a bass knob. The volume knob on the head unit and the gain knob on the amp are both potentiometers. Sometimes the issue is in how gains are set in relation to the bass knob and the volume on the head unit. I would set amp gains with the bass knob on full tilt. Basically no resistance. My logic being that the bass knob being turned all the way up is the systems maximum ability that I chose by setting the amp gain at my clipping point. If I set the gains with the knob being at 75% like some do with the head unit volume, I’d be able to kill the my subs with the bass knob. As long as you’re not feeding a cut in volume into a gain in volume, I don’t think it will affect sound quality very much. That’s why I don’t let a bass knob cut the gain before setting the actual gain on the amp. I’m no audio engineer, and if I’m wrong i hope one chimes in and has some more technical knowledge. I’ve just used a few pots in my time.
 
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vinter93

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