Help choosing a wide band speaker

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

You dont want accurate, you want more detail than flat response. You want a nice sound quality curve if you actually enjoy music. Flat and accurate is boring and mainly if you compete in RTA in mecca. You want highly detailed, and vibrant sound thats smooth and buttery. Gonna take some processing to do so.
to be honest man, you just need some good tweeters that play down to 2.5k and the evils will take care up to 2.5khz just fine without any beaming issues and still pump out a lot of midbass(with power and install/deadening) You are trying to force a small little driver to do way too much where it should have been in an 3 way active setup instead.

BTW those SSA evils, get at least 200 watts per speaker to shine Or else they will sound dull and lifeless. Everyone thats used them have the same consensus. They really do sound good, just need A LOT of clean power. Your CV 600.4 will only be enough for the evils alone bridged.

A rolling curve is accurate. It takes into account our hearing as the frequancies increase. Fletcher-Munson curve

 

[loudenuff]

I was just discussing this with another member so I'll throw out my 2 cents. The Tang Band titanium 4" and bamboo 4" both sound great, and really deliver once DSP is applied. By far the best wideband driver I've ever heard is the 2" & 4.5" Jordan variety. Incredible revealing drivers. They're in the camp of bending wave drivers that behave in a way that causes the apparent diameter of the driver to decrease as frequency increases, which allows for incredible off axis performance. They're spendy but well worth it. A couple other flat cone, bending wave drivers can be found on Parts Express for next to no money and those also sound very good. I forget the model/part number at the moment. HiWave or something like that.

I'll have to look into those. I've checked out tangband before but I was skeptical because of their price.. they carry the bamboo I remember seeing em yesterday. I have dsp on my 80prs but I can't adjust per channel, only per L and R. I'll be getting a c-dsp in the near future though so I get to dive into another pool of ***** trying to tune that thing. I'm still discovering features on the prs...

 

[loudenuff]

You dont want accurate, you want more detail than flat response. You want a nice sound quality curve if you actually enjoy music. Flat and accurate is boring and mainly if you compete in RTA in mecca. You want highly detailed, and vibrant sound thats smooth and buttery. Gonna take some processing to do so.
to be honest man, you just need some good tweeters that play down to 2.5k and the evils will take care up to 2.5khz just fine without any beaming issues and still pump out a lot of midbass(with power and install/deadening) You are trying to force a small little driver to do way too much where it should have been in an 3 way active setup instead.

BTW those SSA evils, get at least 200 watts per speaker to shine Or else they will sound dull and lifeless. Everyone thats used them have the same consensus. They really do sound good, just need A LOT of clean power. Your CV 600.4 will only be enough for the evils alone bridged.

I wish they came with 2ohm vcs. I could run them off of my JL jx360/2. But since I'll be 2 way for the time being I guess I could just run both amps and put my wide rangers on the jx. And you're spot on for what I'm looking for, I refer to the sound as accurate but better detail is what I meant.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

I'll have to look into those. I've checked out tangband before but I was skeptical because of their price.. they carry the bamboo I remember seeing em yesterday. I have dsp on my 80prs but I can't adjust per channel, only per L and R. I'll be getting a c-dsp in the near future though so I get to dive into another pool of ***** trying to tune that thing. I'm still discovering features on the prs...

I have spares on the titanium because they sound that good. Very well behave even before applying any EQ.
Independent L&R adjustment really does make a difference when you get deep into it. Can lock that image right in. Until you roll down your window, lol.

 

[loudenuff]

I have spares on the titanium because they sound that good. Very well behave even before applying any EQ.
Independent L&R adjustment really does make a difference when you get deep into it. Can lock that image right in. Until you roll down your window, lol.

I'll either be getting those or mirus 4" biampable coaxials. Kinda leaning towards the titaniums for price, but I can get the mirus for 129 and I'll be set when I move over to 3 way active

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

IMO it's pointless to get drivers with a goal in mind without getting powerful processing.

You will always need EQ and delay. You don't sit in the middle of the car and both sides of the car are not identical.

All it will lead to is frustration because it will never be just right. I learnt that lesson with the last build. I wanted SQ from the start but got bit by the meter bug. It was never good enough with just the 80prs. But the bit 1 made it perfect after I lost interest in how loud can it be.

There is no such thing as SQL. It's either SQ or it's not. You can't have real SQ over 130db of sub stage. And 130 is pushing it.

At that point the car is playing a bigger role and your ears are becoming stressed.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

yes there is SQL = Sound Quantity Life

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

yes there is SQL = Sound Quantity Life

"Quantity"

 

[loudenuff]

IMO it's pointless to get drivers with a goal in mind without getting powerful processing. You will always need EQ and delay. You don't sit in the middle of the car and both sides of the car are not identical.

All it will lead to is frustration because it will never be just right. I learnt that lesson with the last build. I wanted SQ from the start but got bit by the meter bug. It was never good enough with just the 80prs. But the bit 1 made it perfect after I lost interest in how loud can it be.

There is no such thing as SQL. It's either SQ or it's not. You can't have real SQ over 130db of sub stage. And 130 is pushing it.

At that point the car is playing a bigger role and your ears are becoming stressed.

I'll be getting the c-dsp in a little bit. Just doing this for temporary (like around a months time)

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I'll be getting the c-dsp in a little bit. Just doing this for temporary (like around a months time)

Make sure you play with the software before buying it. Make sure you understand it. A DSP is amazing IF you know how to use it. It can work magic or make the car sound like a big brown turd.

Here's some material that will walk you through what you will be getting into

 

[loudenuff]

Make sure you play with the software before buying it. Make sure you understand it. A DSP is amazing IF you know how to use it. It can work magic or make the car sound like a big brown turd. Here's some material that will walk you through what you will be getting into

Will do for sure. Do they have a file that works for mac? Or does it have To be a pc

 

[loudenuff]

Is there anything I should know when shopping ala carte for mids? I'm thinking about ordering those bamboo 4" tang bands. I'm just hesitant to ord e tweeters. My c-dsp will be here on the 10th, I'm getting wisdom teeth out soon too so whenever I get a good day off after healing I'll be updating the build log and start my midrange fiberglass pods. If I pull through with enough time I will also be sealing off my substage to fire into the cabin.