[Help] Amp(s) have no output after so many seconds?

[datguy.dev]

Greetings,

I drive a 99' Ford Escort. I like to have a good punch to my music, but not too much. So I usually go with budget friendly options for hardware. My current internal audio setup is a small 4-channel Clarion amp (XC1410), front components, tweeters, and 6x9s in the rear. All that works great and is enough for me.

However, in the trunk. I used to have a full Boss Phantom setup. (The sub (P106DVC)). But as you may expect, the amp died. It's been awhile since I could afford a replacement. But recently, I tried a Boss Armor AR1500M amp. Turns out the amp would cut off and output nothing after about 30 seconds of playing music. It didn't go into protect mode or anything. So...not knowing much but that Boss makes bad amps. I then went out and bought a Alpine MRP-M500. Yet, this amp is doing the exact same thing!!! It seems to cut out quicker the higher the gain is. But the time is near the same between low and high output. I took an multi-meter to my sub and it is reading 2.25 ohms... I don't understand why the amp would just stop having output. The previous Boss Phantom amp worked a treat until it bit the dust. I have a pretty beefy wiring setup, overkill gauge wire. Good ground that I just scraped clean again. I've tested with other RCA leads and the issues persists.

I was going to try wiring the sub in 4 ohms mode to see if there are different results. I haven't a clue why this is happening. Does anyone have any advice they would care to share? I can post pictures tomorrow if requested.

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[poolman966554]

amps "not" going into protect and still shutting off? This is where you need to have a DMM to verify remote signal is constant.

If you have 12-14vdc at REM and Ground then you can look at amp or rca signal. Use your phone with an 3.5mm to rca adapter plugged into the amp instead of head unit and see if it still happens.

 

[datguy.dev]

amps "not" going into protect and still shutting off? This is where you need to have a DMM to verify remote signal is constant.
If you have 12-14v at REM and Ground then you can look at amp or rca signal. Use your phone with an 3.5mm to rca adapter plugged into the amp instead of head unit and see if it still happens.

To clarify, the amp(s) are on with the green or blue light on. The subwoofer works - for so many seconds. Then the sub stops moving and producing sound. Yet, the amp(s) are still normally on with the green or blue light and the protection lights are not lit.

What is a DMM? Digital multi-meter? I will monitor the remote signal and do that rca trick... Maybe post a video. I didn't suspect a problem there as my interior 4-channel amp does not cut off like those in the trunk. My remote wire goes from the headunit -> trunk sub amp -> under driver seat speaker amp. Sorry, just seemed far too easy to do it that way. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[poolman966554]

DMM = Digital multi meter. can be had cheap at a Harbor Freight or borrowed for free.

Verify the remote "turn on" signal is present on said amp. Turn ignition on, and use DMM set to DC Voltage on the amps terminals REM to GND to read no less than 12V

if it is, then look into rca input. Play a test tone and measure rca terminals as "center post= positive" outside "shroud" is negative. Ensure your meters set to read AC voltage

 

[datguy.dev]

DMM = Digital multi meter. can be had cheap at a Harbor Freight or borrowed for free.
Verify the remote "turn on" signal is present on said amp. Turn ignition on, and use DMM set to DC Voltage on the amps terminals REM to GND to read no less than 12V

if it is, then look into rca input. measure rca terminals as "center post= positive" outside "shroud" is negative. Ensure your meters set to read DC voltage

Will do. I would right now but it's night time and like 5 degrees out there. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Side note, I am an undergraduate in IT and do electrical engineering as a hobby, so I know what your talking about. Teensy, Rpi, Arduino stuffs. But not so good with abbreviations apparently. I would really love to have bass again! I have been deprived for about 2 years. Thanks for your help with this.

 

[poolman966554]

no problem! i dabble with arduino myself lol. the c++ is what stumbles me up tho lol Im an hvac tech, not a programmer.. but i still try

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Will do. I would right now but it's night time and like 5 degrees out there. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Side note, I am an undergraduate in IT and do electrical engineering as a hobby, so I know what your talking about. Teensy, Rpi, Arduino stuffs. But not so good with abbreviations apparently. I would really love to have bass again! I have been deprived for about 2 years. Thanks for your help with this.

check power, grd, rcas and remote turn on as said also look at fuse under hood make sure every connection is tight.. but if amps didn't fry could be wire on sub or the sub itself..

 

[datguy.dev]

check power, grd, rcas and remote turn on as said also look at fuse under hood make sure every connection is tight.. but if amps didn't fry could be wire on sub or the sub itself..

Hi BOOM,

I actually just finished wiring the sub from 2 to 4 ohms and it's wiring seems solid. Despite the cheap plastic spring connectors of the sub. The connections are stable enough. I wish I knew the gauges again ... but its been a long time. Probably, 8 or 6 gauge. My power and ground wires are twice or three times as thick.

So when the amp stops producing sound. I can restart my car and it will produce output again. Only to stop again shortly after resetting. I don't think both amps have fried because I can repeat that process.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

yeah it's weird.. be great if u could try another sub.. could be hu issue, check rcas

 

[datguy.dev]

So I reinstalled the sub @ 4 ohms and everything appeared to be stable for once! The amp didn't cut off once on a small drive around the block. I bumped bass heavy Pastor Troy and Tech N9ne songs. But for whatever reason, Kendrick Lamar's DNA song blew the sub. I guess it was on it's way out.

I was watching the amp while the coil of the sub was ticking and the power light turned off and on really quick. So I'm guessing that is the reason no sound is being played until a full reset. The sub just ticks now so I guess I'll have to replace that before going any further... The funny bit is I only had the amp at half gain with a quarter turn of boost. Never buying Boss stuff again for sure.


If you have any recommendations for my next sub given that amp? Budget is

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

So I reinstalled the sub @ 4 ohms and everything appeared to be stable for once! The amp didn't cut off once on a small drive around the block. I bumped bass heavy Pastor Troy and Tech N9ne songs. But for whatever reason, Kendrick Lamar's DNA song blew the sub. I guess it was on it's way out.
I was watching the amp while the coil of the sub was ticking and the power light turned off and on really quick. So I'm guessing that is the reason no sound is being played until a full reset. The sub just ticks now so I guess I'll have to replace that before going any further... The funny bit is I only had the amp at half gain with a quarter turn of boost. Never buying Boss stuff again for sure.

 

[datguy.dev]

That's a thing in the past...that song blew my sub. More than likely you were clipping

That exact song, seriously? Coincidence or just bad luck for me?

Not sure about your past comment. I've had numerous Boss items die on me now from subs to amps to headunits. But I knew and accepted that fact going in. By cheap to hold you over until you can get something better. Either way, that is my opinion.

 

[shredder2]

That exact song, seriously? Coincidence or just bad luck for me?
Not sure about your past comment. I've had numerous Boss items die on me now from subs to amps to headunits. But I knew and accepted that fact going in. By cheap to hold you over until you can get something better. Either way, that is my opinion.

Sarcasm... you probably clipped it he's saying... bass boost and gain halfway on a boss amp... lol... that's all

 

[datguy.dev]

Sarcasm... you probably clipped it he's saying... bass boost and gain halfway on a boss amp... lol... that's all

I was trying to test the waters! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Mess with the knobs and see if they produced different results. Although, if it matters those were the settings of the Alpine amp shown in the videos.

 

[Jeffro83]

I can almost guarantee you that your sub was messed up to begin with and shorting out internally at the voice coil causing your amp to shut down but not go into full protection I've seen it happen before your new Alpine amp should be stable at 2 ohms can't remember on that exact model but before you buy a sub Google the amp and find out what the lowest manufacturer recommended ohm load is and buy a sub compatible to that ohm there is tons of great options 4 Subs that will be happy with that power in your price range some of the guys on here keep up on that stuff a lot more than I do so I'll let them give you recommendations