Help a total newb?

since your just starting out id skip on buying an amp for the highs and just concentrate on a strong sub amp. I also suggest using the type S componants and running them off the head unit since they take considerably less power to get loud vs. the R componants.

the skinny : buy Type S componants, buy Type R sub, buy big *** amp with what money you have left over.

 
Snoop, u think this is a safer place to post to keep away from them mad mods? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
shhhhh dont spoil muh planz //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/sneaky.gif.7189749b3a3f769e8815b47e8ae87f88.gif

 
I just don't know whose advice to trust, the one guy seems like he knows his stuff but can't really explain a lot of the technical details (i.e. what the different ohm ratings meant for amps).
I really hope this isn't an autotech you're talking about...

Anyways, the selection at best buy is pretty meh. The new kenwood components are decent. Type R's are decent, too.

Honestly, you can have a better system for the same price by not limiting your selection to best buy, and just buying some equipment forum members here recommend online. The discount is a BIG help when it comes to buying accessories like dash kits and wiring harness', tho.

 
I really hope this isn't an autotech you're talking about...
Anyways, the selection at best buy is pretty meh. The new kenwood components are decent. Type R's are decent, too.

Honestly, you can have a better system for the same price by not limiting your selection to best buy, and just buying some equipment forum members here recommend online. The discount is a BIG help when it comes to buying accessories like dash kits and wiring harness', tho.
Haha no it was the sales dude who works on the floor, not the install tech. But it makes me wonder how often customers end up having to return parts after the techs tell them it won't work together... based on the little bit of reading I did it seems like the ohm rating is pretty significant since the subs / speakers can damage the amp if they have too little resistance and attempt to draw more power than it can put out.
Very true about all the dash kits and wires, they really only cost a few bucks but they're marked up to 20x what they're worth... one of the wires they charge people for (AFTER the install is done usually) was $1.50 for employees and $22 for customers.

And do you mean buy stuff from forum members or are there reputable websites that sell audio stuff at near wholesale prices?

since your just starting out id skip on buying an amp for the highs and just concentrate on a strong sub amp. I also suggest using the type S componants and running them off the head unit since they take considerably less power to get loud vs. the R componants.
the skinny : buy Type S componants, buy Type R sub, buy big *** amp with what money you have left over.
Thanks, simple and to the point -- I'll look into that stuff, esp. since several people have recommended Type R or S as decent budget stuff.
Is there a reason the Type S ones are more easily powered by just the head unit?

 
You can get some quality stuff here in the classifeds section. There are many good amp and sub choices and many other things for sale. You just need to research and see what you want to try first. GLWB

 
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