Help A Noob Out! Please :)

Quick
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Alright so I want to make a box. The box I have now is particle board so that is really bad I hear lol. I know I need to buy some MDF wood from Home depot, and that I have to make a rectangle, but that's about all I got lol. IM A COMPLETE NOOB. Let me get that out of the way so please have some patience with me. I don't really know the lingo for stereo's so it trips me up, and if I do know the abbreviation for it, doesn't mean I know what it does. I see the words your box is tuned to say 50 hz, I don't really know what that means.

My setup is a Kicker 250.2 amp and I have 2 Volfenhag 500RMS 12" subs. They are 6 and a half inches deep. I really need help on a good dimension, and whether it should be ported or not, I need help from people that know what they're doing, like all of you! I would like some dimensions if you guys could help me with that, and some clues on what to do with tuning and stuff. Let me know the dimensions and I'll see if I can make it fit in my trunk.

Thanks for reading and hopefully you can help me out!

Here are my Subwoofer specs:

12" Dual 4 ohms Competition Subwoofer

Power Handling:

Peak: 1000 watts

RMS: 500 watts

Impedance: Dual 4 ohms

Reinforced aluminum curvilinear woofer

Oversized butyl rubber surround

5 spoke Die-cast aluminum basket

2 Flat ultra excursion

Double damper magnetic motor assembly

4 Layer Dual 4 Ohm high temperature black aluminum voice coil

160 oz. Double stacked ferrite magnet structure

Sensitivity: 90 dB

1-year Manufacturer's warranty

Here are my Amps specs:

RMS Power @ 4 ohms 85 watts x 2 channels

RMS Power @ 2 ohms 125 watts x 2 channels

RMS Power @ 1 ohm N/A

Bridged RMS Power 250 watts x 1 channel

Peak Power Output N/A

Amplifier Specifications

Amplifier Class AB

Number of Channels 2

Total Peak Power Output N/A

Total RMS Power Output 250 watts

Maximum Input Gauge Size 8 AWG

Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms

Minimum Impedance Bridged 4 ohms

THD at Rated RMS Power 1%

Speaker Level Inputs Yes

Preamp Outputs 1 pair

Built-in Crossover Low-pass (LP)

High-pass (HP)

Full (AP)

High-Pass Crossover Frequency 50 - 200 Hz

Low-Pass Crossover Frequency 50 - 200 Hz

Subsonic Filter N/A

Signal-to-Noise Ratio 95 dB

Channel Separation N/A

Bass Boost 0 - 18 dB

Bass/Gain Remote No

Fan Cooled No

Fuse Rating 40A x 1

 
I can't find any info on what size box those subs like. Hopefully someone will chime in.
Yeah they are discontinued so not much is known about them, plus they weren't a huge brand like kicker or anything. Is there like a generic size and fits a lot of subs?

 
To be truly honest with you, I'd drop those subs onto somebody on Craigslist and pick up something different..
Lol a guy told me I was going to get told that.. but If I sell them I can't get anything as good for the same money. So for now until I can get something better I wanted to get a box that will make them better than they are now.

 
To be truly honest with you, I'd drop those subs onto somebody on Craigslist and pick up something different..
I have to agree with Tilt..... If you have to use em' find a prefab that's tuned somewhat low (32-35 hz.) and that should be vast improvement to what they sound like now. That's about all the Volfenhaags deserve.

 
I have to agree with Tilt..... If you have to use em' find a prefab that's tuned somewhat low (32-35 hz.) and that should be vast improvement to what they sound like now. That's about all the Volfenhaags deserve.
Alright, can I make one with that low of tune? What exactly does tuning do like with the hz or w\e?

Oh and what determines the tune of a box, when you just put dimensions together and make a rectangle? lol

Also what makes my volf's so bad? 500 RMS doesn't seem that bad does it? Maybe vs you guys that can bust windshields :p I just wanna be able to get a much better performance from these subs, Going from a particle wood to MDF wood will help it performance louder a lot better right?

 
Alright, can I make one with that low of tune? What exactly does tuning do like with the hz or w\e?
Oh and what determines the tune of a box, when you just put dimensions together and make a rectangle? lol

Also what makes my volf's so bad? 500 RMS doesn't seem that bad does it? Maybe vs you guys that can bust windshields :p I just wanna be able to get a much better performance from these subs, Going from a particle wood to MDF wood will help it performance louder a lot better right?
Oh boy..here we go. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

1.) I only know the general basics of the concept, but 'tuning' is the area of frequencies where a ported box will be most efficient. For example, if a box is tuned at 35 hz, it will sound much more full and loud on the lower notes around 35 hz, as opposed to the higher frequencies. The tuning of a box depends on the specs of it's port. (And since tuning involves ports, sealed boxes obviously have no tuning frequency.)

2) I wouldn't consider your subs 'bad', because every brand has its ups and downs (some much more than others), but there are definitely better options on the market. 500w RMS doesn't, at all, determine how good of a subwoofer that particular driver is. It just shows the power suggested by the manufacturer where they felt the driver was reaching it's potential. (For example, a 300w RMS sub could easily sound better than a 1000w RMS subwoofer. It just depends on the sub itself and the application.)

Hope this helped a little bit on your understanding.

 
I can throw a design together for you. It won't be anything special but it will be better than a prefab. What kind of car? How big is your trunk? How much of that trunk are you will to give up?

 
Oh boy..here we go. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
1.) I only know the general basics of the concept, but 'tuning' is the area of frequencies where a ported box will be most efficient. For example, if a box is tuned at 35 hz, it will sound much more full and loud on the lower notes around 35 hz, as opposed to the higher frequencies. The tuning of a box depends on the specs of it's port. (And since tuning involves ports, sealed boxes obviously have no tuning frequency.)

2) I wouldn't consider your subs 'bad', because every brand has its ups and downs (some much more than others), but there are definitely better options on the market. 500w RMS doesn't, at all, determine how good of a subwoofer that particular driver is. It just shows the power suggested by the manufacturer where they felt the driver was reaching it's potential. (For example, a 300w RMS sub could easily sound better than a 1000w RMS subwoofer. It just depends on the sub itself and the application.)

Hope this helped a little bit on your understanding.
Alright thanks that does help, I always thought higher RMS means better and louder subs.

 

---------- Post added at 10:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:18 PM ----------

 

I can throw a design together for you. It won't be anything special but it will be better than a prefab. What kind of car? How big is your trunk? How much of that trunk are you will to give up?
Sure that would be awesome! I'll get the dimensions tomorrow, my whole trunk is usable because I don't put anything in there //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
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