Single cab chevy box build help..

[brown7348 10+ year member]

I have a 2000 chevy single cab with the bucket seats, i currently have a kicker cvr in a L port box that i built, 17''h, 44''w, 5''top, 8 1/2'' bottom, cant really remeber the port length, i know it was correct but it is 16''h, and 1.5 wide, port is firing into the back of the passenger seat, i used the torres calculator but the port inside the box is 1.5'' from the back wall, but i messed up somehow and the bottom of the inside port is almost 2'' from back wall, it was a dirty attempt at a first box build that should not have included a 12 pack of bud light.. Im new to the site and was looking for ideas from other guys in single cab chevys, i have looked the site over but cant find much on single cab set ups like mine.. any help on a good box set up would be appreciated..

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[brown7348 10+ year member]

??

 

[kramer_212 10+ year member]

i would ask ram designs, dc creations, or starrmountain sound i believe there all vendors of this site.

 

[brown7348 10+ year member]

well, can anyone tell me which is better, a bigger port with short length, or a small port that has more length? I hear people talk about port noise and was wondering which of these would cause it, since im going to build a wedge single cab box im only running one 12, and was wondering which would be better..

 

[RangerDangerV2 5,000+ posts]

well, can anyone tell me which is better, a bigger port with short length, or a small port that has more length? I hear people talk about port noise and was wondering which of these would cause it, since im going to build a wedge single cab box im only running one 12, and was wondering which would be better..

the shorter bigger port will have more port noise... you need to find the middle ground in port length an size to acquire the correct sound, tuning, and spl....

 

[brown7348 10+ year member]

Thanks for the help, i was close to deciding on making the port much bigger and shorter, i think right now the port size would be perfect if i didnt screw up the inner port from the back wall, i was aiming for around 32hz but didnt know anything about the change for dropping the sub in. thanks im learning alot from this site

 

[brown7348 10+ year member]

I noticed that i messed up after a couple days, i tried to hit some lows and it would really move the mirrors and stuff but the bass was very soft and the mids would just pound lol...

 

[brown7348 10+ year member]

well i pulled my box out today and took it apart to fix the port, i had the port way to short, so i tuned it as low as i could with the short length i had to work with, i have it tuned to 36hz before dropping the sub in, its finally nice to see that a cheapo cvr can get down and touch the lows a bit, i really want to get a sa12 but i just dont think i could make it fit anyone know the mounting depth on the sa12?

 

[RangerDangerV2 5,000+ posts]

well i pulled my box out today and took it apart to fix the port, i had the port way to short, so i tuned it as low as i could with the short length i had to work with, i have it tuned to 36hz before dropping the sub in, its finally nice to see that a cheapo cvr can get down and touch the lows a bit, i really want to get a sa12 but i just dont think i could make it fit anyone know the mounting depth on the sa12?

just put on a new top baffle... I am pretty sure that they are 6 inches or a little more.

 

[brown7348 10+ year member]

yea the way its built the cvr had to have a spacer to fit without hitting the back wall, if a sa12 is not much deeper i think it could work, also i just found out my local car audio dealer just stared selling diamond audio, are they good?

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

Honestly the easiest way to get what your looking for is to use a flared round port. Much easier to work with and will be easier for you to build as well.

Personally I like sub on the driver side and port out the passenger side firing out the side of the enclosure. I typically make a loading wall on the side of the truck as well.

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

Any chance you would be willing to build a center console box instead?

That's what I did in my sierra regular cab. No worries about cramming it behind the seat.

The only bummer is no road head. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

Any chance you would be willing to build a center console box instead?
That's what I did in my sierra regular cab. No worries about cramming it behind the seat.

The only bummer is no road head. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Tell her to take pilates and then tell her to get back to work!!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/sneaky.gif.7189749b3a3f769e8815b47e8ae87f88.gif

 

[logiball 10+ year member]

6 1/2" mounting depth but don't forget about the 7" magnet diameter if you are building a wedge. I feel your pain though I'm workin with my reg cab ranger ttying to get a sa12 in it. Ill post some sketchup pics when I get it figured out!!!! Though I think I'm going to go large sealed as opposed to small ported. I'm only looking at a max of 1.5 cuft and that's with cutting trim on the sides. I feel your pain on this one.

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

6 1/2" mounting depth but don't forget about the 7" magnet diameter if you are building a wedge. I feel your pain though I'm workin with my reg cab ranger ttying to get a sa12 in it. Ill post some sketchup pics when I get it figured out!!!! Though I think I'm going to go large sealed as opposed to small ported. I'm only looking at a max of 1.5 cuft and that's with cutting trim on the sides. I feel your pain on this one.

Fiberglass is your friend!