Help a newb with amp hitting low voltage cutoff

thinking outside the box here, maybe 4 ohm setup is the way to go? Follow me here.. You can get a decent 5k amp for $600 (wolfram 4500.1) that does more power at 4 ohms than you current amp at 1 ohm. But what im thinking here is Efficiency. Amps are terribly inefficient at 1 ohm vs 4. typical 1 ohm is around 60%? and 4 ohm load s can get in the 80% range from most dyno tests ive seen. Less hard on everything, and you can still be loud. that will give you extended play time aswell. Just a suggestion.



Hmmmmm I’m not opposed to that at all. My concerns are mostly the physical size of that amp. Technically it will fit in the compartment my amps are mounted in, but I’d have to turn it vertically. The issue with that is it will have things thrown in there that will come in contact with it. Not really a big deal probably, because I’d be careful, but other people.....

What are the thoughts on using none marine amps? It is in a compartment and shouldn’t get in direct weather, but it’s still exposed to more than it would be in a car.

 
well, again this is outside of the box thinking.. How aboout you "marine proof" your own amp?? I like to build and fly drones, and one thing i learned really quick is; water is NOT you friend.. that said, ive found a spray on material called Corrosion X. Flite test had a video on it and i was sold. landing(crashing) in tall wet grass in no longer a problem. idk if you wanna buy a new amp and waterproof it, but again just another option.

Found it:


 
Would coating it not make it primed to getting hot?

Here is where they are mounted, size reference. I could turn it vertically on the surface the 1200.1 is mounted, but like I was saying, in a little leery of things being around it all the time, making it hot. With the 1200.1 being against the roof of it, that’s not an issue. View attachment 26557620

 
Not really. With the speakers being DVC 4 ohm subs, I get 1 ohm. I don’t have much else laying around.
Can you test with just one sub or do they share airspace? Go easy because you could hurt those subs pretty fast with that amp just to one of them. If right now you protect really quick you should be able to put in some music with higher bass notes (so as not to hit mechanical limits) and give it a few seconds as a quick test to see how the amp and your voltage behave.

thinking outside the box here, maybe 4 ohm setup is the way to go? Follow me here.. You can get a decent 5k amp for $600 (wolfram 4500.1) that does more power at 4 ohms than you current amp at 1 ohm. But what im thinking here is Efficiency. Amps are terribly inefficient at 1 ohm vs 4. typical 1 ohm is around 60%? and 4 ohm load s can get in the 80% range from most dyno tests ive seen. Less hard on everything, and you can still be loud. that will give you extended play time aswell. Just a suggestion.



If you're going that direction, why not a Brazilian "2 ohm" amp? They'll probably be cheaper and are definitely much smaller and instead of running a 1 ohm amp at 4 ohm you're running a 2 ohm amp at 4 not leaving as much on the table. Either way efficiency should improve a bit.

I know nothing of what makes any of this stuff "marine" though so any way you slice it that may be an issue. I'm still leaning towards that Kicker amp wants to drive 2 ohm... if this can be verified changing subs will be a better and less expensive option.

 
Yes, I could wire one sub for a 2 ohm load.

As far as the marine amp, all the controls are under a sealed panel that you have to open up to make any adjustments, and all the terminals are covered up with thick rubber. Things like that to help keep moisture out.

 
Yes, I could wire one sub for a 2 ohm load.

As far as the marine amp, all the controls are under a sealed panel that you have to open up to make any adjustments, and all the terminals are covered up with thick rubber. Things like that to help keep moisture out.
I would be very nervous about using anything else out on the water.

 
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