Headless setup (possibly) for 200w, controlled via computer/app with reduced power

[oysterman]

The one nice thing about running an arduino you could have a switch to remotely power the PI and automatically turn on when you hit the switch.
ETA- if you’re worried about your battery I would run a decent sized AGM battery with a battery isolator so you could run it all the way down without effecting your start or house batts.

Yeah, a mate of mine was recommending Arduino over the Pi. I'm not familiar with them so I need to look into this.

I like the idea of a dedicated AGM but I run 6v Trojans for the house and 2x 80amp flooded 12v for the starter. Both of these can (and should) take 14.8v charge, whereas the AGM is rated at 14.4v. My split alternator to battery charger, and the shore-power charger, are both set to flooded. An AGM would need an independent charge unit.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I had considered this but I'm not sure I have the space. Also to charge the battery separately would mean extra kit... and more charge time that's already split across house batteries and engine batteries. I wonder what the smallest battery is I could get away with. 50aH motorcycle battery, maybe?

yeah motorcycle batteries are usually lithium iron phosphate which are a lot stronger than AGM. When you do a battery isolator it will mean it'll charge the same as all the other batteries however when you use the new battery, its isolated meaning it does not drain your house or engine battery but when its charged its charged up the same.

 

[DaveT 10+ year member]

Yeah, a mate of mine was recommending Arduino over the Pi. I'm not familiar with them so I need to look into this.
I like the idea of a dedicated AGM but I run 6v Trojans for the house and 2x 80amp flooded 12v for the starter. Both of these can (and should) take 14.8v charge, whereas the AGM is rated at 14.4v. My split alternator to battery charger, and the shore-power charger, are both set to flooded. An AGM would need an independent charge unit.

Yeah sorry it’s been a while since I’ve played with audio power and batteries on a good sized boat the last one was a Grand Banks 50’ wood live on yacht that had twin Perkins Diesels never had any charging problems lol.

 

[oysterman]

Yeah that’s how I brought my Eclipse 8053 into the modern age again.
ETA that’s why I’d get the fire tablet and the kicker marine head unit and have a nice compromise.

So you're streaming music via the bluetooth connection to the Kicker from the tablet? I guess then this means you are controlling everything from the tablet. Is that via a Kicker-specific app on the tablet?

 

[DaveT 10+ year member]

So you're streaming music via the bluetooth connection to the Kicker from the tablet? I guess then this means you are controlling everything from the tablet. Is that via a Kicker-specific app on the tablet?

I haven’t got the kicker and another fire HD8 yet that will come before spring also got to do a motor swap on the boat to get it ready for another season the beautiful Arkansas Lakes. But I’m sure that kicker has a control app for it.
ETA- since my headunit is old school I just use a 3.5mm male to 3.5mm male aux input cable hooked up to the tablet.

 

[oysterman]

Hi again,

Think I've solved one of my problems. A mini PC stick for music! Can run w10 and foobar via app on network and consumes little power.

Also the idea of an aux splitter solves the double aux input because there is never a time when I need to quickly switch between the two. Only one source will ever be on at a time.

Thanks everyone for your input.